collector's choice motor oil

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wrecker55

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2008
Messages
672
Location
Durban, S.Africa
found this on the net a while back, thought I would share it. Hicks Oil makes a collector car oil that is formulated with zink and phosphorus that prolongs cam and lifter life, lost a few cams recently and builders blamed the oil, seems it's been reformulated in the last few years for the newer motors. Hicks oil is formulated for cars that dont get driven daily or are stored also. check the site to find a dealer or more info www.hicksoils.com/company
 
Drop the /company and it loads fine.

http://www.hicksoils.com

There is nothing I can see specifically for older collector cars, but you can
check the product specs and the MSDS sheets, with will give you the zinc content.
I found some with .09, some with .11 and some at .12 listed.

Thanks for the link, I'll do a little more research into the amount of zink
needed to work with older cars... '22
 
More information...

There are oils out there with a .16 zink content or better.

Check this site : http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

You can also check out this oil content breakdown chart by Scott Noteboom
on the HAMB, it is a good basic reference tool worth printing out and saving
in the tool box somewhere...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=138386&highlight=zink+content

Another Hamb point: "If in doubt you can always use STP's engine treatment with XEP2 it contains more than enough zinc (ZDDP) for any engine, just add it to your oil and you'll be fine".

Remember, the HAMB has good reference information if you can ignore the drama queens.. '22
 
I believe that if you use any diesel rated oil you should be good , `22 will know better than me , but I think they still put all the "good" stuff in the oil that older engines require.
 
Was using penzoil racing 50w , lost 2 cams, builder said it was oil but have since lost trust in him, I use rotella for break in now, no problems so far
 
gonna have to clue me in, usually back off when i hear weird noises commin from her:eek::eek:

I flattened a few cams last year but always from over revvin'! Now I use a MSD spark box that has pill rev limiters. Get to 6000... it cuts the power... no flat cam! Pills come in 100rpm increments!:D:D:D

BoB
 
I flattened a few cams last year but always from over revvin'! Now I use a MSD spark box that has pill rev limiters. Get to 6000... it cuts the power... no flat cam! Pills come in 100rpm increments!:D:D:D

BoB
thx trip, usually run a 6k chip too, but the 2 i lost wouldn't get past 4800, 1 went in 20 miles, the other went when we well breakin it in at the shop
 
I've started running Rotella T oil in my T and am really impressed with it. The engine looks hospital clean when I look down in the oil fill hole and the oil in the crankcase seems to stay the same. I've changed it twice already and it doesn't come out all watery and thin like most oil changes I have done with other oils. I went to it because all the diesel boat owners were coming in and buying it, so I figured it had to have some good properties.

Don
 
thx trip, usually run a 6k chip too, but the 2 i lost wouldn't get past 4800, 1 went in 20 miles, the other went when we well breakin it in at the shop

Wow... that should never happen! I use break-in oil the 1st 500 miles but have *never* had that happen. I can't imagine oil choice causing a failure that soon... sounds like a build problem to me! :eek:

BoB
 
After having a roller cam 5.0 engine in my Jeep and now a roller cam 350 Chevy in my T, I will probably never go back to a flat tappet cam again. There is no break in and the performance gains and smoothness are just so apparent.

Don
 
I always use Valvoline racing oil and good old tried and true STP oil treatment in flat tappet engines. I also heard that some of the diesel oils have recently been re-formulated to conform to EPA standards.:(
 

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