Lead Joint Repair

Good morning and Merry Christmas everyone......

I'm in need of a little advice....I've chopped the top on my Graham Coupe. The seam is completely welded back together now, with exception of about
2" on either side where the original lead joint is. I'd like to "lead in" that portion, but have never worked with lead before. I could fibreglass it, but am afraid that it might crack.

Any suggestions? What have other's done in this case? Does anyone know where to acquire some lead in Southern Ontario?

Thanks in advance........

i melt out the lead with low heat on the torch and a small wire brush, then weld the seam up and use fiberglass infused filler to give more strength than regular filler over the seam. have not had one crack or come loose yet

Thanks, that's a great idea.....I really appreciate the suggestion.

Yeah but, back to the lead question. Has anyone got the system down? Can you use wheel weights and melt them down?

No wheel weights. You need a purer lead. You grind the area clean,you can use a cold tinning compound (it's a powder) that you use a damp rag and cold tin the area. Then you heat the area with a torch, not to hot. You will need several wooden paddles and a block of bees wax. some metal files for lead. Heat the wax,slick up the paddle,heat the tin again, put the lead next to the panel, heat both alternately. When the lead starts to soften, heat it onto the panel, it will get soft very quickly so watch it. Work the lead in until it appears there is enough built up. Go back over the lead with the heat and soften it,smooth it out with the paddle as close as you can. Let it cool a bit, file it with the appropriate metal file. Re lead as necessary. If you are fortunate maybe someone has a lead gun you can borrow to spray the final coat. It's a very tough skill to learn. Some people just never master it. I was very lucky to have an old guy teach me many years ago...

DP used something similar to lead on his Orange Crush frenched clearance lights. You'd have to search for the thread.

The stick on tire weights are pure lead and I use them in my front stuffers and the clip on for my 38 that uses the harder mix. You can find rolls of lead in the fishing department. Now watch out for the fumes.

Isn't the leading process dangerous due to the toxic nature of lead? I have heard that even unleading areas that were leaded, by heating and brushing away the old lead can cause lead poisoning or cancer. Don't they now make new types of "lead" that are safer to use than the stuff they were putting on in earlier times?

I would not be hesitant to use some of the modern plastic fillers, they are far superior to any of the old products, and if applied correctly will not crack out. Stuff like Rage and others are great products, and so much easier to work with than lead. I know some people like to use lead for it's "traditional" appeal, but lets face it, once the primer and paint are on you have no way of knowing what is under there.

Don

yeah don you have to be careful even when removing the lead. you are supposed to wear a safety suite, latex gloves, respirator, and goggles. and dispose of it at a toxic waste disposal facility

Fascinating, thanks guys I was just curious. Plastic filler is the way to go for me.

To show how good the new modern fillers are, my Son Dan had a 5.0 Mustang and the hood came open at speed. It damaged the cowl area, which he repaired with Rage filler. A while later the hood flew open again, this time smacking the roof and really damaging the cowl again. But even though the cowl was bent down a lot the filler didn't crack out.

The car got hood pins the next time he fixed it.

Don

Lead is awesome stuff if you know what you are doing.

I wear general safety stuff plus a respirator, in reality you should wear a respirator with plastic filler also.

You can also go with a lead free product, I don't like it as much but it does work and is sandable unlike lead.

If you want something that will last for years and can fill deep gaps, etc. go with lead or the sub.

Just look for body solder on the net. You need a torch, butane or propane will work if you don't have an oxy set up. Need tallow for your paddles, tinning butter, copper wool, horse hair brush, paddles and a lead file, very coarse.

for filling seams i like to use USC's all-metal to fill seams like that great stuff and its more durable then body filler