F-2 Stang

Very nice work !

I ordered a Milodon standard rotation water pump from Summit. I was dissapointed that it was made in Japan - I guess I'm lucky it's not Chinese.

How long does it take to change a water pump? With this broken bolt it may take days. So far I have heated the bolt to red and heated the timing cover a little, sprayed it with Blaster penetrant several times, tapped on the bolt and the timing cover with a hammer while trying to turn it with Vise Grips and given up until tomorrow. There's no hope of trying to drill it out, because I'd have to drill 2 inches straight through the middle of a 5/16ths bolt.

Any ideas?

Righty-tighty...lefty-loosey Dan!

Righty seems to work, it's the lefty I'm having problems with.

I'm trying to get it ready to drive. This bolt is sure going to srew that up.

I did get the clutch bled - something was wrong with that -no leaks and it bled right a way without air bubbles.

I am guessing you have thought about welding on to the bolt. I don't know if that can work for you or not.

With that much sticking out, slip a nut over it and weld it. Then try to get an impact on it to break it loose without snapping it off in the block.LOL

I've had that very same thing happen. I had to cut the side of the hole off the timing cover with a air grinder. The worst was the part where I broke it off in the block. These little Fords are real thin walled there--like maybe 1/4". I think it was too shallow to helicoil. This thinness might just haver been my motor- maybe core shift or something-the bottom of the hole was half eaten off. I ended up drilling the stud out and tapping a few threads in the block and not putting much torque on the new oversized bolt. It was kinda a close call to ruining the block. I just put a larger flat washer on the bolt to compensate for the hole being cut in half.

Aggervatin stuff.

PA41

Water pump

I got the bolt out using advice for the guys who responded to my engine tech question and a little blacksmithing technique. The bend was stronger than welding on a nut and easier and it worked.

This is the new March alternator bracket and pulley. The March bracket system is designed for a water pump from an 85 - 86 Crown Vic. The one I got was for an earlier Mustang. It turns out that the bosses are different lengths so I had to make some new spacers to get it to fit.

The billet stuff looks out of place. Maybe I'll use some of Earthman's Stone finish texture paint and ugly up the bracket and pulley - or just paint it black.

So turning it left helped? What is left to do for the first drive? I need to get over and see it.

Left did the trick!

I've got the cooling system buttoned up, alternator wiring connections need to be made and it will be done. Wiring is all mostly done.

The headers need some work. The gas tank is the big hold up. I need to change the ends and put in a bottom sump - I think. then it ready for a drive.

Come on over.

Gas tank re hab

OK guys , you finally talked me into having the fuel pick up on the bottom of the tank so I put one there.

I also cut the ends off the tank, made new ones and welded them in. The first time the welds shrunk and pulled a huge dish in the front and rear of the tank. The more I looked at it the less I wanted to live with it. This time I made an angle frame and rosette welded it in place before welding on the ends. The sides aren't perfectly flat, but they're good enough for me.

I cleaned the metal with acetone before TIG welding, that really helped the weld quality. No leaks.

I got the tank painted, mounted and plumbed.

It runs

Here's a photo of the fuel system plumbing.

This is the future air cleaner I found. There's a lot of work to figure out how to get a filter to fit in it and fit the carb. For now, it's just sitting on top.

With the gas tank finished, I put fluids in the motor and tranny and fired it up. It started right off. Idle is a little shaky so far. Without gages hooked up I'm hoping I still have oil pressure.

The water temp sender leaks. VDO instructions say "Do not use sealant ... Don't worry, it won't leak". RIGHT!

The clutch doesn't release - adjustment? maybe. Not bled completely? maybe. Bad engineering and not enough slave cylinder travel - I really hope not - but very likely.

I hope the headers are supposed to be blue.

The more i think about the exhaust the more I'm thinking it is not only loud, but doesn't sound that good either. Sounds like an old Ford with rusted out mufflers.

Anyone have any suggestions for better sounding baffles?

That is a great looking chassis!

Thanks TJ.

Got the clutch working today. The pedal was hitting the stop before the master reached the proper stroke. I had to reshape the pedal - no big deal.

I'm still a ways from driving it - maybe tomorrow.

The old glasspack mufflers on small diameter pipes were fairly quiet at idle and gave that high smoothly pulsed crack at high revs. I never learned to like the muscle car/flowmaster sound with large diameter pipes. I heard a ricer once that made a beautiful musical tone and there was an exhaust whistle accesssory for cars way back in the '30's. It would be fun to experiment with a variable setup that could be adjusted until the right combination of factors produced a unique and pleasing sound.

earthman said:

The old glasspack mufflers on small diameter pipes were fairly quiet at idle and gave that high smoothly pulsed crack at high revs. I never learned to like the muscle car/flowmaster sound with large diameter pipes. I heard a ricer once that made a beautiful musical tone and there was an exhaust whistle accesssory for cars way back in the '30's. It would be fun to experiment with a variable setup that could be adjusted until the right combination of factors produced a unique and pleasing sound.

Click to expand...

Curt, Get right on that variable pitch thing for me wouldya, I like the idea.
I'm thinking I might fill the baffle with stainless steel wool - see if that improves the tone. The other option I had thought about was to get a couple small glass packs, cut the leading edge of the case off and shove them in the megaphone. Found some Cherry Bombs, but the suckers weighed 40 pounds each.

Maybe it will sound better when it gets out of the shop - i hope.

DJ3100 said:

The more i think about the exhaust the more I'm thinking it is not only loud, but doesn't sound that good either. Sounds like an old Ford with rusted out mufflers.

Anyone have any suggestions for better sounding baffles?

Click to expand...

Heres what I put in mine but I havent fired it up yet. Its a glass pack baffle and it was only 15 bucks.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-D-2538

sneakysnake said:

Heres what I put in mine but I havent fired it up yet. Its a glass pack baffle and it was only 15 bucks.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-D-2538

Click to expand...

Yeah, that looks like the ticket - or maybe ticket preventor. I haven't seen that before. I couldn't find the dimensions on the site. What's the length and diameter of the ends?

I hadn't realized before how close the driver is to the tailpipe (where most of the sound is exiting) with this style header. I probably sounds louder than it is.

DJ3100 said:

Yeah, that looks like the ticket - or maybe ticket preventor. I haven't seen that before. I couldn't find the dimensions on the site. What's the length and diameter of the ends?

I hadn't realized before how close the driver is to the tailpipe (where most of the sound is exiting) with this style header. I probably sounds louder than it is.

Click to expand...

The big end fits a 3" cone and its around a foot long.I already drove mine in and put a screw in the bottom or I would give you the exact measurements.I have 4" cones and it slid in 8", I planned on bevel cutting the ends of my cones.