U Bolts

I did something stupid, twice, I cut the u bolts off my old rear end cause I didn't get it high enough to get my impact under it to loosen them, plus the ones on the new rear end were very new looking, after twisting on the new ones for over an hour I decided to cut them thinking new ones were cheap. WRONG!!!!

The new ones are $18.00 each

Can I make my own? I have several sizes of all thread rod

Can I use some3/8" 1/2" bar and drill holes then just bolt them across the springs?

All thread won't work. Too weak, and weakened more by having the threads on the bent part of the U bolt, scoring the rod. Tons of guys have used it, but it is not safe.

Look around a bit, should get a u bolt for 8 or 9 bucks!
Hey, I used to live on the edge of Murfreesboro, had a shop in Nashville, sure do miss it

FAIL

shoot - - go to autozone--- you can get a whole lowering kit bolts and all for 20 dollars -- drop down the rear a couple inches

Little things like these U bolts help make the car safe.
It's your life and the lives of others,if you have to spend the dollars and don't cheap out.

cantwell.colton said:

shoot - - go to autozone--- you can get a whole lowering kit bolts and all for 20 dollars -- drop down the rear a couple inches

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You got a link to what your talking about?

Bonehead said:

All thread won't work. Too weak. Tons of guys have used it, but it is not safe.

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yup, cheap is good but safe is better.....

Thanks Colton but my U bolts need to be flat on top, I'm making something right now & I'll show you when I'm done, I think they will work & be safe, it's only a temp patch til I get some more spare money, this started out as a simple brake job that I already had all the stuff for over a month ago. Now it's turned into needing a whole new rear end & wheels/tires.

cheap

$18 is cheap.
I go to a local suspension shop and get them cheaper.
set of 4 with washers and nuts bent to my specs- $50
I knew a farmer who torched his u bolts off...swapped the rear axle... put weight on the bed to compress his springs... and... welded his u-bolts back together...with farmer welds!
He said the heat would make them shrink and tighten up... I said it don't look safe he said "well I done it before and never had no trouble" and then correlated the fact that since I myself had never welded my u-bolts back together than I wasn't qualified to say his doing it wasn't safe...

bone yards

whats wrong with the bone yards look for a newer truck.
Main problem is the diameter of your rear housing.

I have seen a lot of temporary stuff morph into permanent and most of the time they fail . Do it right ,your gonna put your body at risk over 18 dollars ? There are just some parts you don't jury rig or make your self .

IAM-LDS-2 said:

I have seen a lot of temporary stuff morph into permanent and most of the time they fail . Do it right ,your gonna put your body at risk over 18 dollars ?

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No but $18 X 4 yes

Changing out 1 U bolt at a time will be easy and I will do it. Just can't do it right now, I need my truck and still gotta buy rims.

This is what I did, I used 3/8 X 1 1/2" steel to make the top piece, drilled holes to proper size, I had 2 bolts long enough to use on the back side that holds the shock mount but used all thread rod for the front, I used the locater plate on top then tightened it all down I used lock washers, if need be I'll put a tack weld on the top locating plate & the top plate I made to keep anything from shifting.

I feel it's safe, hell the original u bolts were about rusted through where you couldn't see them.

Check out a tractor supply or simular store or a place that carries trailer stuff they have a choice of U bolts

well id check a local spring service shop. here in knoxville there is knoxville spring service. they make them there not bad priced.

old lady's mad said:

well id check a local spring service shop. here in knoxville there is knoxville spring service. they make them there not bad priced.

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I actually used to make them myself when I worked @ Reindl Spring Services Inc in Mansfield, Oh. while in high school

what youve done with the top plates in my opinion is just great.... using a straight bolt through a top and bottom plate is a very common way of attaching an axle on the heavy equipment i work on (licenced HD tech) and a straight bolt is gonna be stronger than any bolt or rod bent at a 90 deg angle to begin with, but im a stickler for grade 8 hardware, those little ticks on the head of standard bolts denote the tensile strength... when you add 2... so no markings is a grade 2... (poor) more common is 3 ticks, grade 5 (good) and if you find one with 6 ticks denotes a grade 8 (better) up to grade 12, uncommon but the strongest. and you MUST weld those top plates you made to the locator plate to prevent movement before you drive it.... hopefully
great solution to the problem at hand

high speed lo drag...

Thanks, I planned on welding them, but not a full weld just 4 tacks on each (2 per side) and tack the nuts to the bolts.