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icebox

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2011
Messages
242
Location
tip of the mitt
I would like your opinion on what I plan on doing . I have set my engine and cab on my really modified 64 ford truck frame. . I want to know if it looks right to you guys. here are some pics .
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thanks icebox
 
Looks good so far?
Do you have and lean to the engine/trans? It looks like they're level and the carb mount has a forward lean.
If it level, your u-joints at the driveshaft will get eaten up fast.
I had an issue trying to figure out what would make the front end on mine look good. I have long frame horns like you because of the steering box mount. I ended up making a tubular grill out of pre bent exhaust tubing. I wanted my grill to lean back a bit since I don't much care for the boxy straight up and down look. Take a look at page 21 of my thread to see how I did mine. It wasn't that bad really.

Can you get an overall photo of the whole truck?
 
It has a 4 deg. down . my understanding is I need to put my rearend at 4 deg. up .I guess the Question I am asking is does the engine look right where it is? the way the caddy heads are i am running into clearance issues with the last exhaust port and the steering shaft.
icebox
 
I prefer to have my distributor about an inch away from the firewall even if I have to use more heims in the steering column to get around the exhaust.
 
I prefer to have my distributor about an inch away from the firewall even if I have to use more heims in the steering column to get around the exhaust.

Agreed with Old Iron. Even if you go with a flat firewall you will have to much bellhousing showing and to great a gap between the engine and firewall. And I would look at the distance of the fan from the radiator as well.I would shorten things up a bit if possible. What are you running for exhaust maniflods?
Good to see that you are back at it. Hope you got the welder issues taken care of. We need to hook up and do a RRR breakfast meeting some time.
Torchie.
 
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More thoughts.
If you remove the skirt from the lower cowl section you can slide the cab up closer to the motor with clearence for the front spring mount.
When I channelled mine I removed that lower skirt as well as the original firewall mount. I have since put them both back on but I liked the look without them as well.
Pic 1. Skirt off
Pic 2 . Skirt back on.
Torchie.
 

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I moved it around some. I think this is better and I think the exhaust might be easier . I can put the back pipe under the steering .I drew some flames on the side and they turned out pretty good . So I thought what the heck I might as well paint them on .I found a can of flat black . Then I stripped them in bright red . how do you guys think the box looks?
 
I moved it around some. I think this is better and I think the exhaust might be easier . I can put the back pipe under the steering .I drew some flames on the side and they turned out pretty good . So I thought what the heck I might as well paint them on .I found a can of flat black . Then I stripped them in bright red . how do you guys think the box looks?


That placement looks much better! Exhaust will be a bit tough. I'm having the same issue with mine and the steering linkage.

For my box, I ended up running the fenders cause it seemed too naked without them. Im also going to do a tiny side step just to fill dead space.
Looking good so far! Keep it up!

P.s. I'm diggin the flames over patina! Awesome look!
 
Now you are cooking!
Looks great. Nice layout on the flames. That's an art unto it's self.
Box looks good to me as is but during the many versions of my project one had a set up with basic trailer style fenders on the rear and a set of cycle style fenders on the front that turned with the wheels ala 50's type hot rod.
Who knows. I still may go that route.
Torchie.
 
Well I haven't done any work to the truck lately . Had neck surgery just over two weeks ago. I did drop my drive shaft off to be shortened/balanced . Then the guy called be back to say it was bent so they couldn't shorten it . But they could put a new tube in it for about 7 times the cost. I went over a friends tonight to see if by chance he had a drive shaft that I could get shortened. An he did so I am going to drop it off on monday. I have been trying to figure out exactly how to hook a 1962 chevy hydraulic clutch cylinder to my set up . I was talking to him about it and he told me he had the easiest solution . We took a walk into the barn and there is a 196? 283 with the bell housing I need with the clutch slave cylinder on the passenger side . He told me he would take it off for me in the morning . It also has motor mounts on the bell housing . Which will work out good. The caddy mounts are at the front of the motor . It put a lot of stress on the tranny . With this set up I can fix that problem . With the slave cylinder on the passenger side it gives me more foot rum for the pedals .
icebox
 
Glad to hear the neck surgery went well.
Great score on the bell housing.
Still haven't done anything to mine. Knee deep in elder care at this time so I wil have to keep pumped up watching you other guys build.
Torchie.
 
Been doing a little work . Got the bottom shock mounts made the other day . Got the top ones done today . Still need a little fitting and then welded in . But I need the finish notching the frame and finish boxing it in . You can see the bottom mount in the one picture .
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Hi icebox. Yes, now is the time to cut the arch in the frame to clear your bouncing rear-end. You might be going to take out a couple of spring leaves to lower the truck some more and give it a nicer ride, so when you get the box back on, the floor in it and the spare tire thrown in there, your frame is going to be a surprizing 2" lower than now. If you take the leaves out your truck will ride nicer but you won't be able to carry that load of fence posts, six more kids, a load of rocks or take a cow to town any more.
I like the shock brackets.
Keep on tinkering.
 

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