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  #81  
Old 05-24-2017, 12:56 AM
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smallfoot smallfoot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercuryMac View Post
Doc., my protractor is sitting on the only place it'll fit on top of the hat. That pivot shaft has slotted holes under it, to help align the top A-frame so the top ball-joint can be placed behind the lower ball-joint. I'm not above cutting those slots a wee bit bigger. The front-end alignment man will probably have a canary, though. Those book-learned alignment guys nowadays have a lot of canaries, when they see a hotrod coming in.
Thank you for the tutorial, it opened my eyes.

Oh Doc, In your reading did it say anything about running at negative 3* instead of positive 3* caster.
Torchie, it looks like a short door. I thought Ford started the long door coupes in '42, maybe someone here could tell us the truth about that.
Sounds like the guy at the tire store I deal with when I asked if they could align my 31....jeesh, if they ain't got a computer program for it, they be lost...
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  #82  
Old 05-24-2017, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercuryMac View Post
Torchie, it looks like a short door. I thought Ford started the long door coupes in '42, maybe someone here could tell us the truth about that.
Last Hijack Doc I promise.
Skips pic looks like a short door.
The long doors were called Sedan coups Mac.
Torchie
(Now back to our regularly schedueled programming.)
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  #83  
Old 05-24-2017, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torchie View Post
Last Hijack Doc I promise.
Skips pic looks like a short door.
The long doors were called Sedan coups Mac.
Torchie
(Now back to our regularly schedueled programming.)
I'm 99% sure it's the one on top. I'm headed out to look at it today. Pics to come.
Last Hijack Doc, I promise.
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1928 Ford Tudor Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?p=538231#post538231
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  #84  
Old 05-24-2017, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercuryMac View Post
Doc., my protractor is sitting on the only place it'll fit on top of the hat. That pivot shaft has slotted holes under it, to help align the top A-frame so the top ball-joint can be placed behind the lower ball-joint. I'm not above cutting those slots a wee bit bigger. The front-end alignment man will probably have a canary, though. Those book-learned alignment guys nowadays have a lot of canaries, when they see a hotrod coming in.
Thank you for the tutorial, it opened my eyes.

Oh Doc, In your reading did it say anything about running at negative 3* instead of positive 3* caster.
Negative caster will put you in the ditch... like a shopping cart with a wonky wheel, it'll "search" constantly and fight you every inch of the way.

You might be able to auger the slots to attain positive caster, but I'd imagine you'll sacrifice camber to get there. If you're lucky enough to make good caster/camber numbers, but you're spring hats remain at an improper angle, you haven't fixed the anti-dive issue...

"Imagineer" (MercuryMac TM) the car under braking loads... with anti-dive negated, you'll "drive over the spring" rather than into it. (You'll be looking for a hand brake or a perfectly timed parachute extraction.)

Have you determined ride height? Do you have an aftermarket three-piece arrangement, or a one-piece (stock) cross-member grafted in? I can't tell from your photos, but either way, I see some cuttin' and weldin' in your future.

.
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  #85  
Old 06-11-2017, 05:01 PM
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We haven't had much time lately, but made some progress.

More bubbly, sloppy, hit and miss "welding". We cut these two lumps off...




and proceeded to make our own strut rod mounts. The bushing plate needs to be 3/8" thick. We didn't have any 3/8'' on hand, so we glued two 3/16" plates together, drilled for the bushing and ground 'em smooth. We then attached the strut rod and bushing, torqued the bushing nut and tacked the plate to the frame...








... some head scratching some cardboard and some skull cramps took us in this direction...



... plenty of angles and some compound angles. More head scratching, more cardboard and we have it boxed as much as possible...









...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Bert MII 4 - Copy.JPG (99.4 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut1.JPG (180.5 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut2.JPG (167.5 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut3.JPG (131.2 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut4.JPG (177.2 KB, 163 views)
File Type: jpg strut5.JPG (170.4 KB, 165 views)
File Type: jpg strut6.JPG (188.1 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut7.JPG (184.0 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut8.JPG (160.6 KB, 167 views)
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  #86  
Old 06-11-2017, 05:26 PM
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A couple more pics.

We moved to the inside and did much the same, but different dimensions, because the bushing plate lies off the center of the frame...



and that's where we're at today. We'll box this side something like my Crayola work shows.



.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg strut9.JPG (187.5 KB, 164 views)
File Type: jpg strut10.JPG (176.6 KB, 163 views)
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  #87  
Old 06-12-2017, 03:48 AM
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Nice work Doc, that right there looks like it would cause me bad skull cramps
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My 29 Essex Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34026

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  #88  
Old 06-12-2017, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DozerII View Post
Nice work Doc, that right there looks like it would cause me bad skull cramps
No kidding......
Looks good and stout now.
Torchie
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  #89  
Old 06-12-2017, 11:50 PM
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earthman earthman is offline
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That was some serious fittin' and figgerin'.
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  #90  
Old 07-16-2017, 07:28 PM
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Unfortunately, we don't get much time to work on the car, but we have made some progress...

We finished fitting the driver side strut mount and moved to the passenger side. We had some trouble making both sides alike, where the passenger side mount wanted to lie 3/4" ahead of the driver side. (fling wrench)

Some measuring, cursing and figuring later, we decided it had to be the control arm... though the arms are interchangeable (no right or left side) we were using the same (old) control arm to fit both sides...

Rewind: Some months ago, Btard found and bought genuine Ford NOS control arms (another nice find, in my opinion) and we pressed the new lowers into service...





The new arms proved our theory. (The old arm wasn't true.) We made the necessary adjustments and we now have near perfect symmetry.



One last step. We fit and tacked braces from the strut mounts to the cross member.





This should conclude our Nuclear MII exercise. It was a pile of work, we made piles of dust and caused ourselves some headaches, but we're happy with our version of the MII. No mystery steel, no child labour (excluding Btard and myself) and OEM quality parts.

P.S. We'll finish weld when everything is placed and fit to the chassis... we've done enough grinding without asking for it!

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg MII 33 (1).JPG (115.6 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg MII 33 (2).JPG (125.5 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0388.jpg (85.4 KB, 106 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0390.JPG (212.2 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0389.jpg (86.8 KB, 108 views)
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