1955 F600, heavy duty build.......with a bus.

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If you lengthen the bed and not the wheel base it will not only look funny but will take too much weight off the front axle. leaving the hoist too far forward will keep it from dumping at enough angle to empty out . I built a truck with a lot of over hang in the rear and it was interesting at times to say the least.
 
If you lengthen the bed and not the wheel base it will not only look funny but will take too much weight off the front axle. leaving the hoist too far forward will keep it from dumping at enough angle to empty out . I built a truck with a lot of over hang in the rear and it was interesting at times to say the least.

Yeah if the chassis gets longer, the wheels will end up centered in the bed similar to how it sits now, or a little behind center.
I don’t want all the weight picking up the front end.
 
Okay welp, no turning back now.
https://youtu.be/S7YyZ75ixyQ

I’m still seeing this as one of the quickest (as far as labor intensive) builds to date.
No trying to convert brakes over to something else.
No new wiring everything (except lighting)
No cobbling together drivetrain pieces that work together.
Body on a driving chassis.
How hard could it be!? :D
Famous last words.......
 
I have only installed dump boxes, but I need to be careful to get my load right on each axle. If I was mounting a dump box I had to keep the hinge fairly close to the back so there was not too much over hang. If it was a grain truck I needed a foot and a half of clearance at the back of the box to the ground when the box was raised so I didn't crush the auger hopper, that I was dumping into. If it was a truck gravel box I needed two and a half feet of clearance to the ground at the back so I could miss the pup trailer hitch every time.
 
I have only installed dump boxes, but I need to be careful to get my load right on each axle. If I was mounting a dump box I had to keep the hinge fairly close to the back so there was not too much over hang. If it was a grain truck I needed a foot and a half of clearance at the back of the box to the ground when the box was raised so I didn't crush the auger hopper, that I was dumping into. If it was a truck gravel box I needed two and a half feet of clearance to the ground at the back so I could miss the pup trailer hitch every time.

That makes sense.
I always thought dump trucks had the axle all
The way back in order to distribute the load across the front and rear axles more evenly.
I didn’t think about WHAT they were dumping into.
In my case, I won’t be dumping INTO anything as it would be primarily used to haul construction debris to the dump, but I’d also like to haul the occasional vehicle on it should the need arise.
Of course I’d build ramps of some sort and also some sort of removable winch. I wouldn’t be loading the vehicles at “full tilt”. So they’d probably be some pretty long ramps.
 
Okay welp, no turning back now.
https://youtu.be/S7YyZ75ixyQ

I’m still seeing this as one of the quickest (as far as labor intensive) builds to date.
No trying to convert brakes over to something else.
No new wiring everything (except lighting)
No cobbling together drivetrain pieces that work together.
Body on a driving chassis.
How hard could it be!? :D
Famous last words.......
For its intended purpose, I think you are 100% headed in the right direction. If it was just for going to shows and letting people stare at it, maybe not so much. There are Y-block fans out there. You should be able to get some of your investment back. [cl
 
Made some progress yesterday. Got the old chassis cut out from under the cab. Then rolled the bus under it and set the cab down on the bus chassis. Now I gotta start u hooking everything from the bus firewall in prep for scooting the cab forward and re-hiking everything back up.

This is going far too easy. Why did my international rat rod build take sooooo long??
😂

https://youtu.be/4R-ZxsWojIQ
 
Oh and also might have found a guy in some other state nearby who has a use for this ford chassis. Sweeet! I was hoping to not have to scrap it.
Hopefully it works out and we can roll this thing up on his trailer and he can take it home and put it back on the road again.
 
I don't like having to scrap something someone else can possibly use either.
[P[P[P

I had it listed on Craigslist for about 38 minutes before I got tired of the morons.
Took it down with no intention of re posting.

I was reading through a Facebook group last night and a guy had an early 50’s chassis he was wanting to get rid of. Another gentleman piped up wanting it but once they figured how far apart they were, the deal became unrealistic.
I was much closer to him so sent a message. I asked him to make me an offer on it.


What do you think a fair and realistic price would be for it?
I did cut the steering column, brake and clutch pedals.
No hoist or hydraulic pump included. Good engine and trans, chassis, 1 broken leaf on front passenger side. 7 good tires with lock ring split rim wheels.
It’s a 2.5 ton so o don’t figure the market is all that great for this particular truck but I don’t know.
 
A lot of people like those old Y-block engines. Especially if it runs. The steering column and pedals can be fixed. Those 5-speeds are getting hard to find, too. So, its worth something to someone. :D I agree that scrapping it just wouldn't be right if you can help it. I also agree about the CL flakes that are just looking to scrap it, and want it for free. :mad:
 
A few hours after work today got me some good progress......
of course, an overly long video that will probably bore most of you to death is soon to follow after more work this weekend :)
 

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You should send International a thank you note for making it easy for you. So far, anyway. :D Things will start getting even more interesting now that you are coming up on the assembly phase. I'm looking forward to the next installment. I know you got this. [cl



Note to self: I better pick up the pace on my project, or jmlcolorado will be done before I am.
 

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