Lil Tin Bucket - golf cart #3

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After doing some measuring and pondering, took off the lights, bumper and hood sides, masked it off and whacked a strip out of the passenger side fender. The tape strip on the front edge shows approximately how I'm going to cut the edge back. The fender supports underneath will also need shortening about 1 1/2" on each side.
I guess this is what the saying "past the point of no return" means....
 

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ZZ,
You're a brave cat, I would have never done that to that gorgeous truck. With your skulls I'm sure it going to be killer but wow! :eek:

Toad
 
Dang ZZ, a guy can't even take a couple of weeks off and come back
to find out you already finished one project and now started another,
you're killin me......no really, great work on both!!!!!
Love the cart....
 
Stitched the other fender up and moved on to the cutouts. I made a cardboard template, scribed it to the fenders and trimmed off the offending metal, cutting in an extra 3/8" to make room for the 3/8" rod that will be formed and welded to the edge like the rest of the fender.
I may yet cut in a wee bit more - have to sleep on that one...[S
 

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Trimmed the front edge back another 3/8", made the new edge beads from 3/8" rod and got them tacked in place. Also shortened the under fender braces so now the fenders can come off to finish up the welding and start the bodywork.
 

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Pulled the fenders off, finished the welding and grinding and scraped all the old paint off. It would have been tough to feather edge the clearcoat that was on it and blend it to the filled areas, so the best, longest lasting fix was to take it off - a nasty job but now its done....
 

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As always, excellent work, done very quickly - nice.

How do you seal the bottom side of the 3/8 round joint? Or do you fully weld the bottom and the top?
 
ZZ, I always thought the proportions were awesome before, but seeing your modifications the fenders will look way better on the truck, if that was possible!

Those American Racing wheels completely change the look of the truck, it's going to look great!

Will I see you in Radium next month?
 
As always, excellent work, done very quickly - nice.

How do you seal the bottom side of the 3/8 round joint? Or do you fully weld the bottom and the top?

I just welded it on the topside, then I shoot the backside with gravelguard/undercoat to seal it . I does get driven in the rain but not on salty winter roads so I don't expect any issues with corrosion.

ZZ, I always thought the proportions were awesome before, but seeing your modifications the fenders will look way better on the truck, if that was possible!

Those American Racing wheels completely change the look of the truck, it's going to look great!

Will I see you in Radium next month?

Thanks! Yes, I'll be there this year, that's why I'm in such a hurry to get these mods done. With building the cart and other stuff, the only time I've driven the Hennway this year is from its shed to my garage :(
The width of the F150 front end and the original wheel choice dictated building the fenders so wide, which has always bugged me so I'm thinking this little nip and tuck will improve frontal view....
 
Thanks! Yes, I'll be there this year, that's why I'm in such a hurry to get these mods done. With building the cart and other stuff, the only time I've driven the Hennway this year is from its shed to my garage :(
The width of the F150 front end and the original wheel choice dictated building the fenders so wide, which has always bugged me so I'm thinking this little nip and tuck will improve frontal view....

I'm glad to hear you'll be in Radium, hopefully we get a better chance to chat this time!

I had never noticed the lack of the cut in on the front of the fenders before, but I think it's going to make a massive difference! By the way, what do you do your cutting with? Die grinder and a steady hand?

I've got a couple thousand km's on mine this year, but not as many as I would have liked to have by now! See you in the valley!
 
I'm glad to hear you'll be in Radium, hopefully we get a better chance to chat this time!

I had never noticed the lack of the cut in on the front of the fenders before, but I think it's going to make a massive difference! By the way, what do you do your cutting with? Die grinder and a steady hand?

I've got a couple thousand km's on mine this year, but not as many as I would have liked to have by now! See you in the valley!

Yeah, I'm pumped to go there this year, it's always great to see all the cool rides from the other side of the Rockies. :D
I just use a 1/16 zip cut blade on my 4 1/2" angle grinder.

The new shape is actually a blend of my original design and the latest shape with the narrowing added (or subtracted?). First pic is the original design(2006) - I then extended the front lip down (2009) and straight across to the frame and smoothed the peak back a bit. I wanted to hide the airbags a bit but it turned out looking more 1934 ish so I'm trying to backdate the look more like a 1932 sumpthin'
 

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After a couple days filling, priming and block sanding, today I sprayed the base and clear. Tomorrow, more block sanding on the clear, then polishing.
 

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After a couple days filling, priming and block sanding, today I sprayed the base and clear. Tomorrow, more block sanding on the clear, then polishing.

Well, things don't always go as planned :(:mad:
Upon closer inspection I saw a zillion little pits in the surface of the clear which I have since learned is known as solvent popping. You can't just sand it off, little bubbles are all through the clear so when you polish it, the pits fill with compound leaving little white dots everywhere. Hoping for an easy fix (idiot!) I sprayed 3 more coats of clear on, hoping to bury it - even worse than the first round!!
Thoroughly ticked off now, I sanded the clear smooth, resprayed the base coat and then another 4 coats of clear - AAARRRGGGHH - it happened again :eek::mad:
Just about losing it now [S:mad:... today I peeled it all back down to the primer, fixing gouges, getting ready to shoot another layer of primer/sealer.
Googling the solvent pop problem, it could be laying the base coats to close together, not letting it flash long enough before shooting the clear, laying the clear on too heavy, wrong speed reducer on the base, too warm when spraying the clear (it skins over before the solvent can evaporate, causing the bubbles), so on.
So today I sprayed a test panel - layed on 3 coats base without letting it flash at all, then sprayed on 3 really heavy coats clear while the base was still wet and shiny - came out perfect!! What the...**$$## only thing I can see that I did right was to spray it at 72 degrees.... is it really just the temperature giving me trouble?? It was around 80 degrees each time I sprayed the clear before. PPG base coat 1 part base to 1 part medium reducer. PPG Omni clear Urethane 4 parts clear to 1 part hardener. PPG primer.
Any insight or help on this would be great - I'm dreading what will happen on the next go round..
 
I have had that problem when I shoot smaller items. My guess is that I don't wait enough time between coats. Spray for 30 seconds and wait for 10 minutes - the wait time seems to be forever. My solution was a clock.

Is there a sealer coat (like epoxy) over the filler and metal? Contaminates on the surface or in the air supply might also be another consideration.

I feel for you, it's frustrating having to remove a freshly sprayed finish. Good luck.
 
I have had that problem when I shoot smaller items. My guess is that I don't wait enough time between coats. Spray for 30 seconds and wait for 10 minutes - the wait time seems to be forever. My solution was a clock.

Is there a sealer coat (like epoxy) over the filler and metal? Contaminates on the surface or in the air supply might also be another consideration.

I feel for you, it's frustrating having to remove a freshly sprayed finish. Good luck.

Yeah, I'm freaked out about shooting the clear again, I've got just barely enough of the base coat left for one more try..
I talked to the tech guy from my parts store and he basically said the same thing - give plenty of time between coats of base, give it couple hours before clear and more time between coats on it too. I did those things on the last try but it still popped on me - only thing I can see is that it was too warm , 80+ degrees. Today I shot another coat of primer to fix the surface after scraping all the other base and clear off, added 1 part of clear to it per recommendation to make it a primer/sealer coat. Tomorrow, final blocking and base coat, I'll wait till the temp is down to 70 degrees before spraying. Fingers crossed....
 

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