tunnel ram

I'd take the tunnel ram off and either put on a cast iron intake or use the bolt holes to lift the engine. I used a carb plate to lift a 460 Ford into a van, bolted it to the stock intake and it worked fine. I don't think I would want to use one with the tunnel ram though, too tall and hard to get it to balance.

As to your windsheild posts, are you sure that's a roadster body and not a coupe with the top cut off? The cowls are different I think. I think 28-29 and 30-31 are also different.

I think you are trying to make a closed car windshield frame fit and it's too wide. About 3 inches too wide. Roadster windshield measures approx 41 inches at the bottom and closed car about 44

mdlahotrod said:

Any suggestions of a better way to do it or will it hold under the weight?? [S

Click to expand...

Just us a chain / strap from one of the accessory holes on the back of the cylinder head to the same hole on the back of the other head. With the trans on the back it will just about balance there anyways. If it starts to tip one way or the other then just add a cargo strap to level it. [P

jfg455 said:

Just us a chain / strap from one of the accessory holes on the back of the cylinder head to the same hole on the back of the other head. With the trans on the back it will just about balance there anyways. If it starts to tip one way or the other then just add a cargo strap to level it. [P

Click to expand...

Yea, that's my go to method also! I never trusted lifting from aluminum parts...

tunnel ram/windshield fitment

Thanks guys. I'll be lookin at the different ways to lift the engine according to yall's advice. I'll also be doin some measuring for the windshield. Thanks again. You guys rock.

tunnel ram/windshield

You were right willowbilly. After measurin it today, it's 43 3/4 across the top and 42 3/4 across the bottom. I've got to cut 2 1/2 inches out of the middle of the frame. This is kinda scary. First time weldin and got the top repair of the windshield support cowl done. Not real pretty but will suffice. Can't see the welds anyway. I tried to beat em off with a hammer and they hung in there so I don't have to worry about the windshield flyin back in my face.
I don't wanna make another expensive mistake like I did on the heads. I'm gonna measure a couple more times then try to make my cuts nice and clean. Then weld it up and see how it goes. I found out tryin to weld on old pitted metal ain't so easy. Windshield frame isn't that bad though. I'm such a rookie at this. Good fun and learnin kinda stuff though.

Don't hesitate to dive right in there. There is not a welder alive that hasn't seen a rather ugly weld when he first got into it.

The best advise I can offer is it's more important to clean your material
[down to bare metal] before you weld it than it is to try to clean it up after you weld it.

I-R-POPS said:

There is not a welder alive that hasn't seen a rather ugly weld when he first got into it.

Click to expand...

Speak for yourself, I came out of the womb causing stitches. Oh wait, never mind [ddd
Pops hit it on the head.
Clean metal, the right heat range and practice is what it takes to be able to weld.
Shoot I've been welding since 1967, ASME certified in 75 and still have a goobered up weld every now and then [cl[P

I can't see enough of the parts you have and what cowl you have and why it won't fit in the pictures, they're too fuzzy and they're close-up.

However, it looks like you've got the wrong windshield frame as you figured out, and I think the curvature of that frame to the cowl is also different (because of the different roadster parts that are narrower).

Here's a pic I found of a roadster cowl that should help you:



This thread also has a bunch of pictures that should help you figure out exactly what you needed: Roadster Windshield Posts

tunnel ram/windshield

Thanks 05snopro. That's exactly what I have but the top of the windshield support cowls had been cut off. I've attached some pictures of what I did to get it to fixed. They actually make repair parts for that exact thing.
Had to cut 2 1/2" out of the center of the windshield frame. Welds aren't too pretty but will certainly suffice. Thanks for all the info and advice guys.

Looking good.[cl[cl[P[P

Ya gotta get a build thread started so we can all follow along.

Tunnel ram

Thanks guys. Good idea 8liter. I'm quite a rookie at this and maybe it'll help other rookies gather some confidence. You guys have been a tremendous help believe me. Today I'll b spinnin oil up into the new motor usin that gismo from Autozone that spins the oil pump.
And now that my confidence is up with my welding capabilities [, I'm gonna try and make a test stand to get the new motor runnin cause its gonna be awhile before it'll be ready to start in the car. I'll be postin on "builds" now too. Hope I can depend on yall's advice from here on out. Still got a long way to go.
thanks again.

I think you're firmly seated in the group here.
I'll be following your build too.

Tunnel ram

Ok guys, another yet dumb question.
I had planned on running these carbs inline with the bowls goin fore and aft.
However, there's these 2 vacuum ports that I'm pointing to in the pictures. My question is, will I need these vacuum ports? If I'm gonna be usin em, then I need to mount the carbs side by side with a whole different kinda linkage then what I have.
Any help would certainly be appreciated.
Thanks

Those ports are used for power brakes and a pcv valve.
If you're not running power brake then the cap the front one and use the other for the pcv valve.

not an expert on dual carbs but I believe those are manifold vac. ports . plug 1 off or tye together to what ever needs manifold vac.

Tunnel ram

Good. Thanks guys. That appeared to be an easy questioned answered. Now I can use my existing linkage. Although I had to lengthen the adjustable rods. The way they came weren't long enough.

TUnnel ram

Oh....and just where might the PCV valve be located? [S

Usually in the top of one of the valve covers