tunnel ram

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....and often overlooked is matching the header pipes to the exhaust ports.

I have heard that unless it is a high RPM full race engine to leave the exhaust ports alone. The head ports being a little smaller than the header help prevent the exhaust from reversing and going back into the engine. Never tried it myself, so I can't say for sure.
 
We've all become too used to modern cars that you just pour gas in and go with little need to really pay attention to what the engine is actually doing, they are just to darned civilized!
I love having some involvement in really driving a hot rod - babying it till it warms up, fiddling with the choke, feathering the gas so as not to bog, feeling the rise and fall of the power curve as it winds up, just listening to the engine do its thing, hearing the gears whine.
Go with it and have fun.

I hear what you're saying. [cl

Just bought a Weiand tunnel ram for mine, off a buddy. He's put twin Holley 600's on it and blocked off the fuel supply to the secondaries, says they'll never open, but I may disconnect the link to the vacuum device. I'm sure it is going to be 'interesting' to get running right, but it'll definitely look the part and fill the emptiness above the motor.
 
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I have a 2x4 tunnel ram for a SB Chebby that I picked up cheap. I am thinking of running adapter plates and a pair of deuces on it. With a big intake/air cleaner on it who will know. Right. :D

Have any of you kids tried this?

I've used the multiples of the Holly/webber progressive 2bbl on 3 projects and was really pleased. It's been a while, but they were real common and cheep as they used them on a lot of carbed 200cid+ 4 bangers before EFI took hold. The 'progressive' thing made them easy to live with--no bog when the secondary's opened, so easier to 'tune'. EBays got lots of them for $120ish.
 
Sorry for the lack of information. See.....I'm still learning.
They are flat top pistons with 4 valve relief.
Looks like from what all I'm reading here about the porting and polishing, well.....looks like I'll be lookin for a new/used set of heads. Now....before I go crazy with that, is there anything in particular I should be lookin for in the heads that would benefit this build? I mean like should they be just the same of what is stock, 76, 64 or 66cc? I guess since I'll be replacing the heads, might as well get what would benefit the build the most.
Thanks for your patience guys. I feel like a child learning to walk here but know this information, and even the way to express the information necessary to get the correct answers is invaluable to me.
 
Ok, I have an opportunity to pick up some aluminum heads for a really great price. They are 210cc Runners, 64cc Combustion Chamber, 2.02 Intake Valves/1.60 Exhaust Valves. Too much for the motor?? I wanna check with youz guys before I dive into those. The price is around 600 bucks complete with valves, springs, rocker studs & guide plates. They're set up for hydraulic flat tappet cam shafts with a max lift .600. Would these fall in line with the 268XE comp cam?
 
[clYes, yes, yes [cl [dr :cool:
With aluminum heads you can run 10.2 to 1 compression on 91 pump gas at the 40 degree total timing I mentioned.
Let the fun begin [ddd
 
one more ignorant question.
Got the heads (aluminum), Put the XE268H cam on order. Even got the engine paint on order. It's a special metallic kinda Pontiac aqua blue. that's what color the car will end up. I'll be drivin it around mat black for awhile though. Gonna pinstripe flames down the side and a Pin up on the deck lid with some stripin surrounding her.
Now....rocker arms and push rods?? Use the stock ones that came out or different??
Same with the oil pump. Stock or not??
Oh by the way, this motor I got that I traded for did not come with a distributor or coil. Any suggestions on that??....and fuel pump. Electric or stock?
Boy.....we're just about ready to put this thing together. Soon as I get the machine work done on the block, it'll soon be assembly time. Oh boy!![cl
 
Ok, I have an opportunity to pick up some aluminum heads for a really great price. They are 210cc Runners, 64cc Combustion Chamber, 2.02 Intake Valves/1.60 Exhaust Valves. Too much for the motor?? I wanna check with youz guys before I dive into those. The price is around 600 bucks complete with valves, springs, rocker studs & guide plates. They're set up for hydraulic flat tappet cam shafts with a max lift .600. Would these fall in line with the 268XE comp cam?

Now you're talkin! You could go with a bigger cam. Usually the heads are what limits the cam, but since you have what sounds like a great set of heads, I think you could cam it up a bit. Or not.
Believe it or not, my YouTube feed just suggested this video for me this morning. https://youtu.be/-XjDq2DcZk0 That's basically your build, but jacked up a couple notches.

I would definitely use full roller rockers. Even with my moderately built big block, I tried to just run roller tips, and broke a stud off in the first thousand miles. All 16 rockers were galled and purple from the friction. It was ridiculous. I'll never do that again.

New pushrods are worth the cost. Just get em.

High pressure oil pumps are the enemy, especially with hydraulic lifters.
High volume oil pumps are your friend. Others may disagree.

A stock fuel pump will work just fine.

Your distributor will be limited by the intake. Notice in the video at 2:26 he says it has a standard HEI. But then when you look at it, it's an MSD. You don't really need a super duper maximum flash whatnot ignition system. You just need something consistent, that advances the way it's supposed to, and proper spark plugs. In my personal opinion, MSD distributors get way more credit than they should. I won't use them again. The last one I had, I put about 6,000 miles on it, and when I took it out and looked at it, the weights were worn, and the thrust washers on the shaft were worn and galled. It had way too much end play, and I've used nothing but full synthetic oil since after the break-in, and I change the oil about every 1,000 miles.

My favorite is the Crane Cams 1000-1501 Pro Curve Billet. It's easy as pie to set up, and it has a small cap. The drawback, is that it requires an ignition system, as it isn't a self contained HEI. The other drawback, is that Crane almost went under a while back, and a lot of these good parts are disappearing.

I used a Jacobs ignition box for a while, but had two of them go bad within about 6,000 miles. I found a used Crane ignition with a dial rev limiter on eBay, and it works great.

All this talk makes me want to build another engine. :rolleyes:
 
I've been given a Mallory Magnetic distributor for my set up, but there is no vacuum advance. Am I losing out, or doesn't it make a lot of difference for what is basically a fun car? I won't be doing long trips, or worrying about gas mileage.
 
Tunnel ram

8Literbeater.
You can build an engine vicariously through me. :p
God knows I can use all the help I can get and you and Old Iron have been a ton of help thus far.

I found a great article on distributors.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/engines-drivetrain/sucp-0606-hei-distributors/
Disposes a lotta myths about various HEI distributors.

Reckon I'll keep the stock fuel pump but some of the electric ones with regulators sure look cool. I'll just get a chrome one. LOL
I do wanna get an inline fuel pressure gauge. I was told by the guy I got the carbs from that I shouldn't be running more then 4lbs of pressure. Is that correct? seems light.
I'll look at the high volume, not high pressure oil pumps tomorrow. Glad you told me that. I wouldn't have known the difference. Any other little tid bits you can think of to throw in there, please don't hesitate to let me know. Just continue to pretend you're buildin this motor and put in what you would. I already ordered the cam so really can't change that now but I think I got a good one.
I'll also get new push rods and start shoppin for full roller rockers.
Also....you mentioned proper spark plugs. That's one of those things where I just thought there were good brands. Of course some better than others. i.e. "Champion".
Believe it or not, I'm actually beginning to get an understanding of how all this stuff works together. Thanks guys.
Fixin to go to the website you posted.
 
A Holley or Edelbrock mechanical fuel pump will have the pressure posted as to what it will be regulated at with no need of an external regulator on your part.
This is the one I like. You can clock the inlet and outlet ports.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350...8&cadevice=c&gclid=CKW6wvvL4MkCFQEdaQodGZkDGA
350-1721.jpg

The oil pump to use is a Mellings M55HV
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-m55hv?seid=srese1&gclid=CMbSw-TM4MkCFYVFaQod3FwJiw
mel-m55hv_w_ml.jpg
 
I vote yes to the pressure gauge. Four pounds would be a minimum, not a maximum. Look for 4-8 pounds. Follow Old Iron's lead for the fuel and oil pumps.

My spark plug of choice is NGK. When you know your whole setup, like compression ratio, cam specs, things like that, call NGK and tell them what you have, and ask what plugs to use. They'll steer you right.

Stay away from Accel.
 
Tunnel ram

Thanks guys. I'll be shoppin for best prices. Wooh......this motor's getting expensive. What the heck, it's only money right? My wife asks me all the time, how much did this cost, how much did that cost. I just tell er it's MY retirement money and never tell her how much anything costs. [ddd
Anyway, like I said, I'll be shoppin for those fuel and oil pumps.
See 8Liter.......Accel is all I know from back in the day and they were the ones to go to for plugs, distributors, coils, etc. back then. I do know about the NGK plugs but wasn't aware of their quality.
I'm copyin and pastin all this information on a folder on my computer soes I'll have quick reference.
 
Tunnel ram

Plus....she's still workin and most deliveries come during the day, I just set em in the garage cause she NEVER goes in there and budda boom budda bing, no questions asked.:)
 
New heads

OK....just got these in yesterday. Now.....I looked online and it's recommended to NOT use these right out of the box and something to do with the valves not being totally seated. These are NOT $3000.00 heads so is that true? Also.....do I port these (not polish) to fit the intake and exhaust or leave well enough alone??
Anyone care to chime in on these questions?? Thanks in advance.
 

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Nice set of heads!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The only things I would do is lap the valves in, blend the manifold intake ports to the intake ports on the heads and leave the exhaust alone.
With aluminum heads you have to use head gaskets that are made for aluminum heads.
My all time favorite head gaskets are Cometic MLS (multi layer steel) What's cool about these are, they are reusable.
 
Tunnel ram

Thanks Old Iron. Consider it done. Ordered the fuel pump and oil pump you suggested as well. You have no idea how much I appreciate your help. Hope you'll hang with me till this build is complete and who knows, maybe one day I'll meet ya at one of the rod runs around the country. That'd be very cool.
 

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