1937 Packard 115 coupe

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Finding it tough to get work time on this but got started on converting the doors to one piece glass. Made new glass channels front and back, formed the felt channel and mounted the power window motor. Dug through the parts pile and put together the original latch and release mech.

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Mounted an original armrest and window switch, also made the window pattern from 1/4" fibreboard.

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Door gap is so tight, I had to recess the door contacts

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After remounting the door, I found that I goofed on the chop of the door top, had to cut it and raise it 3/16" to get the top gap right, also had to grind, weld and grind some more to fix the gap at the lower back edge.
Now to repeat this on the other door, hopefully it will go quicker now that I've figured out the process....
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I used these contacts on my 33 Pontiac thinking they were the thing but, found out you couldn't open the door and run the windows up or down instead, you had to get in the vehicle, shut the door to run the windows up or down.

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Yeah, that is the drawback to this setup, something I've gotten used to on my Hennway for the last 14 years...
I've tried running wires through a conduit like the stainless braided ones you can buy but they bind and the way the doors open also tends to try to snip the wires off. Modern cars have a bunch of space in the door jamb for some type of rubber accordion style conduit, here there is only 1/4" gap between the door and the frame :(
 
Yea, kinda figured that. The small gap in the in the door is why I used them too.
In my 37 GMC, I opted to use a piece of fuel hose and took advantage of it's natural curve so when the door swings it follows it. Fastened one end to the door and made the hole in the jamb just slightly loose so the hose slides through it smoothly.
So far it's worked flawlessly.
 
I don’t have a pic handy, but my Lincoln came with two springs in the jamb that the hydraulic lines ran through for the original window unit. They look like screen door springs, only larger. They are fastened to the door, and slide through the jamb easily. I ran my wires through one of the, so far, no problems.
 
Been busy doing bodywork, so for a break from the bondo dust, I took the dash panels to a nearby shop to have the burl wood effect done to them - Hyrdrographics. Looks pretty good and they shot a good coat of Urethane clear on as well. I may get more parts done, very cost effective.

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Wow they did a mighty fine job on the dash. [cl[cl

That's beautiful ZZ, I can't wait to see the gauges in there.

Looks great.[cl :D :cool:
Nice to have those kind of options near you. ZZ:cool: :cool:
[P [P [P
Torchie

Yeah, for 200 bucks, there's no way I could have created that from the crusty old pieces I handed to them. I'm thinking to have them do the plastic pieces on the sides of the seats so they don't look so modern, maybe the heater box and window garnish mouldings too... [S
 
Yeah, for 200 bucks, there's no way I could have created that from the crusty old pieces I handed to them. I'm thinking to have them do the plastic pieces on the sides of the seats so they don't look so modern, maybe the heater box and window garnish mouldings too... [S

😎😎😎😎😎
Torchie
 
After a couple months of bondo - er - body work
I swept up, blew all the bondo dust out the door and splashed on a coat of primer/surfacer. Lots of spot filling to do and many more hours of block sanding and more priming but its getting smoother, so that's progress.

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