F-2 Stang

Bonehead said:

Looking really good. When I did mine I couldn't figure out how to make the cab come on and off around the tubes. I like what you came up with. Keep up the great work.

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Thanks, I have gotten a lot of inspiration seeing your builds and photos. You do some cool stuff.

tottally kool ... i want one of those tables.....lol

Very impressive work your doing there. You have some really cool ideas, that is going to be one heck of and awesome truck. Looking forward to seeing more updates.

Just waiting for some more pics.

Great skills there.

BigShem said:

tottally kool ... i want one of those tables.....lol

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roddguy1 said:

Very impressive work your doing there. You have some really cool ideas, that is going to be one heck of and awesome truck. Looking forward to seeing more updates.

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Daman said:

Just waiting for some more pics. Great skills there.

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I agree... truck's really lookin' good & love the proportions! Thanks for posting!!! [cl

BoB

WOW... some really great ideas you have there! I think that is going to be on of the best handling trucks on hear. Keep posting[cl

Thanks everyone.

The last set showed the bed with the gas tank. Here's some photos of the gas tank build.

I started by making the bending tool in Photo 1

Photo 2. The material is 18 ga. You can see the lines 1 inch apart that I used to guide the radius bend. I clamped the tool over the bend and lifted the sheet and then moved to the next line. Eventually I got what you see in this photo. Here I'm bending a flange on the bottom lip.

Photo 3. A maple slapper was used to start the bend evenly.

Photo 4. This is the joint I'm working on. The outer flange was then hammered down and welded. I got the idea from a gas tank build article in Street Rodder. This joint is strong and no leaks.

Photo 5. The hammerform for the end plates and baffles. This one is made from cheap cabinet grade, particle board. By the time I finished these parts it was showing some abuse. MDF would work better, but this was cheap and did it job.

I start forming with a metal slapper and try to move the material a little at a time without allowing a pucker to form.

Photo 2. As one area tucks in another area pops out. A dolly is held on the area that is popping out while the other area is gently persuaded to go in.

Photo 3. The above is all theory. Eventually, I always get lumps that need correction.

Photo 4. Persistance and patience. Back on the hammer form, it is getting pretty close.

Photo 5, Baffles made from 20 ga were much easier to form than the 18 ga end plates

I actually did the endplates first and used them to check the shape of the body of the tank.

I rolled a few beads with my beefed up HF bead roller. ( Someday I need to make or buy a real bead roller)

I didn't take any photos of making the gas cap. The bottom is one piece of 303 stainless carved out on my lathe and milling machine. The cap is copper. The top lever is forged from 304 stainless.

Photo 1. Gas cap mounting plate. Mounting holes were drilled and tapped. The small hole saw roughed the center hole, which was bored to size. The larger saw cut the round part out of the plate.

Photo 2. The plate is a press fit for the counterbore.

Photo 3. In the center of the tank is the mount for the sending unit and fittings for the pick-up and return (in case I ever need a return).

Photo 4. The gas cap was inspired by the old Halibrands and some others that I saw online. This one is smaller, but big enough for a gas pump. There is the beginning of an endplate cover that will add some detail to the ends of the tank (and cover up the ugly weld).

you definitely have some skills... and the tools to back it up, everything looks really good very impressive

Where does the master cylinder go? I want to keep the booster, since I know the brakes work great with all the original Mustang components. Hanging the thing on the firewall will be too ugly. Under the floor is road, so that doesn't work.

I looked at some of the 90 degree set ups, but they would all need modification to make them fit and the cost wasn't in the budget. So, I modeled the geometry (cardboard and thumbtacks) I would need and buiilt one myself. While I was there, I made the reverse clutch master and forged the pedal arms.

Photo 1 -3 are views of the completed assembly. Photo 4 is through the instrument panel. Photo 5 is through the speaker hole. I left the stock proportioning valve for now, I'll probably replace it with an adjustable one, later.

This is very cool stuff, thanks for showing how it's done and it's given me some cool ideas.

Toad

HOLYCRAP!!!

You are a fab god![

Welcome to RRR...and THANK YOU for taking the time to share the pics of your fine build.

Proportions are "RIGHT ON" don't worry about not enough chop.

Mery Christmas and "more pics" when you have the time!

Regards,
Shea

thanks for the time spent showing how its done.
KILLER truck love the tube frame.Do you have a cad proragm to help fit the tube and what kind of bender do you use.Thanks and keep up the fine work.

Absolutely incredible work A+++++ [cl

One of the most intense builds on RRR in a long time here. Very cool project! The sectioning you did on the cab is sweet. Keep the build pictures coming!

Thunder

anvil said:

thanks for the time spent showing how its done.
KILLER truck love the tube frame.Do you have a cad proragm to help fit the tube and what kind of bender do you use.Thanks and keep up the fine work.

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Thanks everyone for the positive comments. I have gotten a lot of great ideas form all the posts you guys have done and figure I owe you one.

I don't have a CAD system program. I did full size drawings of the front suspension very carefully about 4 times, sure wished I was CAD proficient. Mostly I make little sketches, attach dimensions and build something totally different becasue I changed my mind 4 times while I was working on the detail.

I have a Protools Bender with air/ hydraulics. I also have one of their tube notchers. I got both, plus a 1" and 1.5" dies from a Craig's List ad. No complaints about the quality of the bender or the notcher.

The notcher (uses a hole saw) is pretty difficult to get an accurate location on the cut. So, I try to cut on the long side and use an end mill in the Bridgeport to make the little adjustments.

Photo 1 Lakes style megaphone header mostly finished

Photo 2. I got some pipe that measured just over 3" diameter x .09 wall. iplasma cut the wedge shape. This idea to form the megaphones came from someone whoposted on this site, sorry I don't remember who.

Photo 3. The .09 wall needed presuation from my hydraulic press. 3" exhaust tube can be closed up with a few worm drive clamps, but not this stuff. The bottom die is a rocker that conforms to the taper of the pipe.

Photo 4. Eventually the gap was closed and the seam welded.

Photo 5. I think I like it in this attitude.

Photo 1 I bought some 1 3/4 diamter J bends and a set of header flanges from Speedway. The bends were perfectly round no matter where I cut them - usually they are oval in the middle of the bends and don't match up really well. Nice stuff

Photo 2 & 3 are the tools I made to form the tube to the header shape.

Photo 4 Shows them in use - sort of. A big hammer drives the swedge in, while the round piece keeps the oposite end from getting dinged up and keeps it round.