Dan's 1939 Plymouth PU

the start of the frame

The frame has been started choice of steel 2X4X3/16
44' is disappearing fast.

Not sure if I will use a 34 ford cross member and frame horns, or round tube an a fab perch and no frame horns. So for now I have set it up with frame horns.[

I have set the chassis up with a 6" drop and the frame also narrows 4" in the frount that will be hidden by the grill shell so the frame will be straight no additional Z at the cab like most do just something different.

I put a cross member and gusset to strengthen up the splice and gusset in the rails as well so there no worry about breaking the frame in this area.

next week I will set the motor and trans in the frame and fab the mounts the motor is a 292 Chevy straight 6 36" long from fan to back of block this thing is going to be long.

ha ha ha

The frame has been started choice of steel 2X4X3/16
44' is '' diapering'' fast.


wow, ether you are talented to diaper fast or had a lot of pratice, my diapering goes slow and some times l have to dodge flying objects coming my way[cl'

oh, by diapering the truck, does that make it a big baby?:eek

just having fun, l can't type as good as l think either, fingers get ahead of the brain[ddev

it is looking good, keep up the good work and keep us posted.

Ps mayby get the other half to do the diapering so you can work on the truck more :0

Later

well I got it fixed. When you try to post stuff and are on vicodin for pain some time stuff gets a little funky.[S

Lucky me no wife and no kids never had any and probably never will ([clI am married to the cars and the shop[cl).

O ye did you notice my mother 72 years young and help out with all my projects[cl[cl[cl

This is a little off topic but, are you going to do that hood like that on the Comet? Frame looks very good BTW!!

rainman it does look neat but that's the hood for my 1946 dodge D-24 coupe
haven't got it back on since I painted it and that the safest place I could find to hide it.

I was just wondering, in that pic it looked like you might be blending it in!

School yesterday and part of today is really cutting into my weekend time
any way got the plats made for the motor mounts.setting the motor and trans up so they do not hang below the frame 4" of ground clearance and a long frame would spell disaster other wise.

Decided to go with a 9"ford instead of the Winters quick change it is cost prohibitive on this project ( it would cost about $600 to change it from wide 5and narrow down the housing so will save it for another project and put the difference back in this project).

Started to mock up the rear end wound up with 147" wheel base the 6 Cly add quite a bite and the fact that I will run a fan with fan clutch adds to the length as well. if I went with elect fans I could cut the length down another 4" but want to make sure the ac cools "YES IT WILL HAVE AC IT GET HOT IN TEXAS" and the truck does not over heat.

I am thinking about cutting the center out of the rear artillery wheel and putting them in some 8" rimes so I can run a wider tire on the rear.

Here is some of the cost so far :
$500 *1939 Plymouth
$260 *49 f1 axle with disc brakes and gear box
$130 *Hair pins
$122 *Miss Parts for Hair pins and gussets
$100 *title work to get legal title
$100 *9" ford rear
$150 *7004r trans
$180 *4 artillery wheels 16" 5X4.5 lug and Dodge hub caps
$150 * steel 2 sticks 2X4X3/16 20' long 1 pc 2X2 11 gauge 20' long
$35 *frount spring perch
$14 * frount spring
$1741 *spent to date going to be close

Here is some of the cost so far remember I set a $3000 budget for this truck:
$500 *1939 Plymouth
$260 *49 f1 axle with disc brakes and gear box
$130 *Hair pins
$122 *Miss Parts for Hair pins and gussets
$100 *title work to get legal title
$100 *9" ford rear
$150 *7004r trans
$180 *4 artillery wheels 16" 5X4.5 lug and Dodge hub caps
$150 * steel 2 sticks 2X4X3/16 20' long 1 pc 2X2 11 gauge 20' long
$35 *front spring perch
$14 * front spring
$350* rear hair pins, shock bracket, pan-hard bar, battery box, brake hose tabs (from EZ T bucket thanks RPM)
$69 * rear air bags 2500#
$2160 *spent to date going to be close

still need to buy:
Air tank, pump, lines, valve
Gas tank and fuel lines
Brake hoses and hard lines
Rear end rebuild kit, and gears
I will use a radiator from a 55 Chevy project it was new but not large enough to cool the car.[clFree [cl
Tires
Drive shaft
$$$$$ don't know if $840 is going to do it. my need to deduct the cost of the truck and title work this would give me $600 more to spend and still stay under the $3000
or would that be cheating

Finally got a day to work on the truck got the spring perch and radius rod mounts done and started on the grill

I am using a CASE tractor grill (cast iron and weights 75#) and will have 30 fines made to fill in from the tractor grill to the radiator kinda like a 40 ford deluxe.

not looking good on the 292 six having problems getting the cam and pistons I want cam been on order since Dec and pistons since Nov may have to put a small block in it if I cant get the right parts

I did not like the looks of the 55 Chev radiator I was going to use looked way to wide hung over the frame rails 2 1/2" on both sides.

Found a deal on a 32 high boy alumina radiator with trans cooler set up for GM motors made by Dillon Radiator on e-bay for $199 buy it now they also have the low boy version for the same price.( e-bay # 130476785063)


This radiator will set inside the frame rails against the tubing the perch is welded to so the rear of the grill will be narrow by 7" and 6" shorter in length. I think it will look more in proportion. this will also allow me to move the motor forward another 6" making the wheel base a little shorter.

now if it will just get here by Friday so I can finish the grill and get the patters so I can get the rest of the grill teeth cut.

gasser said:

I am using a CASE tractor grill (cast iron and weights 75#) and will have 30 fines made to fill in from the tractor grill to the radiator kinda like a 40 ford deluxe.

Click to expand...

Cast iron, really!?
That's awesome, I can't wait to see it with the fins!!!
-Chaz

Got the radiator and it is now mounted. AC cond and fan are both figured out and the patterns for the side fins for the grill has be sent out to be cut.

looks like I can use the original grill top but it will take some heavy cutting to flatten out the angel to match the cab.

I kept getting told the cam and pistons are on back order but are coming for the 292 and really want to run it with all the eye candy I have for it ,but may have to go with one of my small blocks 350 with cross ram, or 350 TBI for fuel economy,523HP 351 Cleveland and c-6. I would hate to get done and still not have the parts for the 6 With the extra room needed for the six a small block would look lost in the Eng bay.

I will have to make a decision soonconfused: I need to get the chaise done and painted, and need to get the back half of the frame done I have been waiting till I knew for sure which motor to run. all the part are here now except the air tank and pump.

Thats a sweet looking ride dude!!! RR

1955 Hudson Hollywood Hornet

After the rat rod this is what is up next a uni-body car that the previous owner started putting on a 1987 Lincoln Town car chassis with fuel injected 302 with AOD trans.
Disassembled and lots of pieces but all there. Just cut out the floors, weld some body mounts , build new floor pans and away we go
but like all my projects TITLE WORK FIRST.
at $250 I figured I could not go wrong

Thought about using the rear fenders and deck lid on the truck instead of a bed I would probably have the only rat rod with a continental kit

Well no cam or pistons and can't Wait no more, so pulled the rebuilt motor and trans out of my 55 Buick. Now the truck will have fuel injected 350 with 700R4 Tran's, air, PS, power disk brakes and cruse

Got my grill parts(32 teeth) from Ron at eztbucket.com RPM (THANKS) so I have gotten started on the grill not sure but may run the teeth across the top to I kinda like the way they look[S.

Hopefully I will get all the grill done and the rear frame done this weekend going to be hard with the warm weather and my bike calling me.

little by little frount and side panels are removable I think I will move the radiator up 4" since there is plenty of room.

The top panel I have decided to make out of fiberglass I will make a pattern out of styrofoam cover it with plastic wrap and glass away, it will be a lot easier then working with all the curves

Man I am getting tired of taping holes

Coming together nicely.

A little more progress and a set back just minor though. I ordered the rear radius rods 3" to long so either cut the cab or shorting the rods clear choice cut the rods off and retread them.

Making template for PS gear box the rest of the frount end is ready to come apart new bushing seal and bearing and Paint.

Rear is close need upper air bag bracket, pan hard rod, shock mounts and radius rod bracket then its rebuild and paint time there to.

Step by step it is slowly getting done.

Still do not know what I will use for a bed? I have a 48 IHC step side or the rear of the 55 Hudson with a continental kit or just a wood stake bed. so for now set up for the IHC bed the other 2 wont matter where the axle is but the IHC bed has a 3" half moon indent for the wheels to line up with.

If I do not get the title Thursday for the Hudson I will use it. There will not be another one like it may be a good thing might be so ugly that it scares the children[ddev

well it made it to the floor now blow it back apart finish welding rebuild the rear end and frount end and start on the cab