Splitting bones

So I read that people don't like the 30's - 40 ford axel to split because of the distance between spindle and bone and turning radious.
Just wondering your opinions?

I really don't care about turning radious being short if I gotta back up and try again so be it my car is still cooler then the Toyota behind me!

The distance between the spindle and the bone doesn't change. If you're talking about tire scrub farther down, then you can still split the bone but mount the pivot point inboard of the frame rail. The will reduce the chance for tire scrub and stays more true to the intended geometry. It also just looks better IMO.

http://lonestarbodyshop.blogspot.com/2012/03/early-ford-wishbones.html

The above link is to some info on the differences between years on axles and wishbones.
From 1935 onward the spring mounts were cast as part of the wish bones(ie spring in front) so that caused some issues as well. I also think that there is some differences in the distance from kingpin to wishbone mount hole which is why most people use the earlier axles when having them dropped.
I include a picture of the various years axles for comparison.
Torchie

This is also a link to some good basic straight axle set up info.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0902sr-science-of-straight-axles/
Torchie

Thanks Torchie
I'm printing this to hand out and will save me a lot of time explaining why someones hot rod won't turn and grinds the tires off of it.
The group I run with finally realized what I've been talking about when I say akerman.

I have read that the looks like 35-40 axels are a pain in the ass to split. I have a 35ish axel that I started to split (waiting for parts) rebuilt everything good axel ect and don't see any real issue with splitting it and having tire rub on the wishbone. It will rub at extreme turns but still about 3-5* from hitting the kingpin nut. It's the long bump stop as some called it.

This axel I have is a stock axel no after market drop a original ford standard axel rebuilt and now splitting. I don't plan using the front spring mount they be long gone before long. But have read that springs are hard to get if moved to rear after split. No issue either. 45 min drive to the suspention and drive shaft shop and a Benjamin later new custom leaf spring!

I get that some people don't have the ability to make everything work out to perfection and god knows I ain't perfect either but I don't think it's a hard task to overcome.

And thanks torchie for the axel read I studied that for days before I made my first chassis.. Still no expert at it and learning daily and still go back and read just to make sure I don't miss anything.


Thanks for the replies also keep them coming

Straight axle stuff can be interesting. People forget that when Ford came out with the Model T there were still more Blacksmiths out there then Mechanics. They were pressed into service to repair things like axles and chassis. More then one model T has a bent front axle that was done to help with what passed for a front end alignment way back when.
Torchie

split bone tire rub

I have made a v cut in the bones to pull them in close to the frame for tire clearance

TIMOTHALE said:

I have made a v cut in the bones to pull them in close to the frame for tire clearance

Click to expand...

Yep. That's another way of doing them as well.
Torchie