Bamamav's 1947 Lincoln Club Coupe build

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hey bobby, was you at nauvoo last saturday? if you wasn't there was a ride that looked like yours from a distance. we had a master mason degree and afterwards was gonna walk the show. my knee was having no part of it, barely made it back to the truck. bad as i hate to i guess it's time to have something done about it.
 
I hate electronics.

Got my new coil this morning, hooked it up, no different. New coil, new module, checked voltage, still no spark. Apparently the pickup shorted internally. Not worth it to keep fooling with it. It was a Chinese knockoff anyway, lasted a few years, so I guess I got my money’s worth. Just glad I was at home instead of miles away on a trip.

Going back to what I know works. My FoMoCo points distributor. I can see if it’s working or not. I can fix it on the side of the road if I have to. I can’t do that with electronics. I’m not out for max performance or good gas mileage, I just want to be able to drive when I want to and not have to worry some electric gizmo might quit. Points worked 100 years ago, no reason they won’t work now.

Now I get to wait on parts again. Damn, I love hot rodding!
 
Sorry for your troubles.

I did points back in the 70s. I did tune ups at a garage. For me, the electronic ignition was a welcome sight.

I've put lots and lots of miles on electronics in vehicles without issues, but I suppose that because I was in the industry and worked during the learning curve, I'm far more comfortable with that stuff.

I change carriers in the mid 1990s, this new stuff that has come along after I changed carriers is strange to me, but I've been away from it a long time. I'm no longer in the loop, so I'm lost on the current stuff.
 
Pulled the electronic distributor out, and freaked out! The freaking gear stayed in the motor! WTF? Luckily, with a long pair of needle nose, I was able to fish it out. The stupid thing is just a press fit on the shaft, with a tang that fits in a slot inside the gear. Never seen such BS! Points distributor dropped right back in, I had already changed to a steel gear for the roller cam, so it was good to go. Took the AL-482 cap, looked at it real good, found it already had a thin place to miss the advance screw and lock it in place, slipped it on, fits like it was made for it. Wired it up, hit the key, started on first half a round! Had to sorta set the timing by ear, my timing light has bit the dust, so I may still have it a little high, it's wanting to ping a bit on 85 octane. Backed it down a touch, will road test it again after I flush the cooling system again. New thermostat didn't make any difference, still getting hotter than I like.
 

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Cooling system was full of rust. This motor had sat for 10 years with old antifreeze in it. I flushed it last year, but apparently I didn’t get all of it out. I ran a bottle of CLR through it first, let it run about an hour, then drained it when it got cool. Then I put Cascade dishwasher detergent in it, and ran it another hour. Still waiting on it to cool down, then I’m going to flush it with clean water. This last running, it was already running 10-15 degrees cooler. I’m hoping it’s enough to keep it cool now.

Going to order a new timing light probably tonight. My old one lasted 15 years, this last one didn’t last 5. Both were Actron brand. Going to get something better this time. It’s amazing how much smoother it runs on the points vs the electronic. I’ve got the timing low enough now it doesn’t kick back starting it hot, so I know I’m close.
 
According to my mechanical gauge, it’s running about 190. I can take that. Electric gauge is showing about 210, 20 degrees high. I don’t trust it. Going to get another mechanical gauge and put it under the dash. If it wasn’t such a PIA, I’d just replace the electric one in the dash, but it’s tough to get the cluster out and back in now with the wiring and ac ducts in the way…
 
Bama, I've had the same issues with electric gauges.
I've also found that the sender will cause the gauge to read low or high (same manufacture and same part number) by the 20 degrees you're talking about.
 
Cooling system was full of rust. This motor had sat for 10 years with old antifreeze in it. I flushed it last year, but apparently I didn’t get all of it out. I ran a bottle of CLR through it first, let it run about an hour, then drained it when it got cool. Then I put Cascade dishwasher detergent in it, and ran it another hour. Still waiting on it to cool down, then I’m going to flush it with clean water. This last running, it was already running 10-15 degrees cooler. I’m hoping it’s enough to keep it cool now.

Going to order a new timing light probably tonight. My old one lasted 15 years, this last one didn’t last 5. Both were Actron brand. Going to get something better this time. It’s amazing how much smoother it runs on the points vs the electronic. I’ve got the timing low enough now it doesn’t kick back starting it hot, so I know I’m close.

I've had that problem so I always replace the freeze plugs & use my lil pressure washer to clean out those spaces you can't usually get to! You'd be surprised how much crap comes outta an old motor that's been sitting!

BoB
 
I washed this one out with a water hose, didn't have a pressure washer at the time, it did get new freeze plugs in the block and heads then.

After flushing with CLR, clear water, then Cascade, then clear water a couple of more times, it's pretty clear now, still just a rusty tinge to it. Will probably do the Cascade a time or two again and see if that gets the rest of it. Mechanical guage reads 190, electric 210, so a 20 degree difference. I'll get another mechanical and put it under the dash. Don't trust the electrical anymore.

Todays project:

Replace the steering U joint and double D shaft.
I've always had a bit of slack in the steering ever since I went to power. I figured it was in the old box, but when I put the brand new box on, it was still there. Found the slack was in the double D shaft. Bought a new Borgeson U joint and double D shaft from Summit and put them in, no more slack. Steering is as tight as my pickup now. Mucho better.

The Borgeson joint and shaft is on the bottom, eBay special on top. Borgeson joint is beefier, and the shaft fits snug where the gold one had a bit of slack in it.
 

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I've been slacking on follow ups, can't believe it's been six months since I posted on this thread...

The new Borgeson steering stuff is 1000% better than the ebay china junk I had. Took out all the slack, she drives right now.

The cooling system though has me pizzed.
I bought a new water pump after the original started leaking out the weep hole. I also had the belt squeaking at idle. Put new pump on, align checked every pulley, alternator, AC, power steering. Still can't get rid of the squeak at idle. Seems to disappear after it warms up, so I just ignore it. Belt wear looks normal.

But somewhere I'm losing coolant. Haven't found it yet, been too cold to fool with it. Probably a clamp loose or something since all hoses are new last year. Parking on gravel I can't see where it's dripping off. Need to stick a piece of cardboard under it and might see it then. Last time I drove it, I had refilled the radiator a couple of days before, didn't check it before I left, couldn't get any heat out of heater, then noticed the gauge had jumped up to 220*, damn. Eased it to the house and parked it, opened hood when I got home, no visible leak or steam, so
DSCF1511.JPG
I may not fool with it until spring.
 
That
I've been slacking on follow ups, can't believe it's been six months since I posted on this thread...

The new Borgeson steering stuff is 1000% better than the ebay china junk I had. Took out all the slack, she drives right now.

The cooling system though has me pizzed.
I bought a new water pump after the original started leaking out the weep hole. I also had the belt squeaking at idle. Put new pump on, align checked every pulley, alternator, AC, power steering. Still can't get rid of the squeak at idle. Seems to disappear after it warms up, so I just ignore it. Belt wear looks normal.

But somewhere I'm losing coolant. Haven't found it yet, been too cold to fool with it. Probably a clamp loose or something since all hoses are new last year. Parking on gravel I can't see where it's dripping off. Need to stick a piece of cardboard under it and might see it then. Last time I drove it, I had refilled the radiator a couple of days before, didn't check it before I left, couldn't get any heat out of heater, then noticed the gauge had jumped up to 220*, damn. Eased it to the house and parked it, opened hood when I got home, no visible leak or steam, soView attachment 179620 I may not fool with it until spring.
Sucks Bama, hope it's just a clamp needs tweak.
 
That
I've been slacking on follow ups, can't believe it's been six months since I posted on this thread...

The new Borgeson steering stuff is 1000% better than the ebay china junk I had. Took out all the slack, she drives right now.

The cooling system though has me pizzed.
I bought a new water pump after the original started leaking out the weep hole. I also had the belt squeaking at idle. Put new pump on, align checked every pulley, alternator, AC, power steering. Still can't get rid of the squeak at idle. Seems to disappear after it warms up, so I just ignore it. Belt wear looks normal.

But somewhere I'm losing coolant. Haven't found it yet, been too cold to fool with it. Probably a clamp loose or something since all hoses are new last year. Parking on gravel I can't see where it's dripping off. Need to stick a piece of cardboard under it and might see it then. Last time I drove it, I had refilled the radiator a couple of days before, didn't check it before I left, couldn't get any heat out of heater, then noticed the gauge had jumped up to 220*, damn. Eased it to the house and parked it, opened hood when I got home, no visible leak or steam, soView attachment 179620 I may not fool with it until spring.
That Sucks Bama, hope it's just a clamp needs tweak.
 

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