Front suspension

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70Newport

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2018
Messages
50
So I have decided to not go with air ride at least in the front of my project based on cost. I am planning to use the straight axle with the parallel leafs that came with the project. My plan is to make a "spacer" I'm going to call it that will move the axle from under the leaf spring to on top of it like you would normally see on a mopar rear end. Picture to follow. Just wanting to know if this is another bad idea or If I have finally come up with a decent option for this build that will provide the ride height I want without a large price tag.

Thanks,

Gary
 
The spacer will be built for each side and boxed in for stability then welded to the axle. “U” bolts will go through axle and the spacer and bolt to the top of the axle not the spacer.
 

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doing a rat rod based on a budget doesnt actually exist. Its just like a normal hot rod with no paint.

[cl:):cool:
Gary don't take this the wrong way but, a lot of people will tell you they can build a rat rod/hot rod for almost no money[S
Unless you've saved parts for decades or someone has given you most of the stuff then, you're foolin youself.
I'd sit down and come up with a realistic budget then double that and you might make it:)
[P[P[P
 
Thanks for that. Good read. Looks like im back at square one. Clearly i was wrong and doing a rat rod based on a budget doesnt actually exist. Its just like a normal hot rod with no paint.

Exactly - Have you priced paint products lately? Talk about sticker shock... :eek:

But seriously - There are plenty of budget builds out there, you just have to be realistic. Face it - If it was cheap and easy then everyone would be doing it, right?

There are a lot of places where you can try to save a buck, but suspension isn't one of them. That being said, a safe and reliable setup doesn't have to break the bank either. If you want to run your parallel leaf setup, use a dropped axle. Bolts right in place on the same springs and gives you a 3+" drop.

Check these out - http://droppedaxles.com/axles

They run about $350 depending on your exact application, and Sid does EXCELLENT work. I have used his axles for years and love them.

Not sure what you consider "budget", but there are a lot of folks out there that get real sad when they figure out exactly what it takes to put these cars on the road SAFELY...
 
If you're talking about this front end, you already have a dropped axle...

attachment.php


just thinking out loud... if the springs were to mount outboard of the frame, you could drop it until the axle contacts the frame. You might need to narrow the frame to accomplish this, but it'll work, at least in my mind...

.
 
[cl:):cool:
Gary don't take this the wrong way but, a lot of people will tell you they can build a rat rod/hot rod for almost no money[S
Unless you've saved parts for decades or someone has given you most of the stuff then, you're foolin youself.
I'd sit down and come up with a realistic budget then double that and you might make it:)
[P[P[P

Double the budget and triple the time is usually a pretty close starting point. :D

What they said!!!:eek:

BoB
 
That's a stock Ford axle. While it has a "dropped" appearance to it, it is not.

I didn't mean to confuse the issue. The way I see it, if it's not a straight axle, it's a dropped axle whether it was manufactured that way, or modified and dropped further.

I know this doesn't fit the traditional definition of "dropped axle" and I hope you can appreciate my point of view...

.
 
I didn't mean to confuse the issue. The way I see it, if it's not a straight axle, it's a dropped axle whether it was manufactured that way, or modified and dropped further.

I know this doesn't fit the traditional definition of "dropped axle" and I hope you can appreciate my point of view...

.
The way I read it, you were saying to move the springs to the outside of the frame, and mount them higher on the frame rail, instead of underneath it. This would give a guy however much drop he can fit. Granted, it may call for notching the frame.

The 40 Dodge in the video has a pretty radically Z'd frame to gain most of its lowering. It looks like a fun and different (well, less used anyway) way to get it in the weeds.

70Newport,
Since you seem to have a mix-n-match bunch of parts, I'd be positioning the axle under the frame with the springs on it and see where it lands. Then start sorting out how to hook everything together.
I also see a cross leaf spring hanger on the front if the frame. There are parts to convert to that style of spring.
 
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The way I read it, you were saying to move the springs to the outside of the frame, and mount them higher on the frame rail, instead of underneath it. This would give a guy however much drop he can fit. Granted, it may call for notching the frame.

The 40 Dodge in the video has a pretty radically Z'd frame to gain most of its lowering. It looks like a fun and different (well, less used anyway) way to get it in the weeds.

70Newport,
Since you seem to have a mix-n-match bunch of parts, I'd be positioning the axle under the frame with the springs on it and see where it lands. Then start sorting out how to hook everything together.
I also see a cross leaf spring hanger on the front if the frame. There are parts to convert to that style of spring.


Yeah the previous owner mounted that and I have looked at going that route but by the time I get/ build the wishbones to do that and get the spring and everything I am going way too far into the budget.

I know about needing to double budgets and everything, I have built many cars with proper budgets and gone way over. This is more of a challenge for myself to use creativity and my own man hours to build this within the limited budget I have.

I have done MANY measurements and the biggest thing I am running into is the frame being a little too wide where I should be mounting the springs to be able to go on the outside without narrowing it fairly drastically..... the other thing that has been causing me a bit of trouble is the fact that the frame tapers to the front and is not parallel. means everything needs to have spacers/ wedges to make everything square.

Previous owner did great work to what they did but I don't think they planned ahead at all and Im thinking its going to be either a very long process going well backwards before moving forward or I need to accept a different stance than I want at this point.
 
I have done MANY measurements and the biggest thing I am running into is the frame being a little too wide where I should be mounting the springs to be able to go on the outside without narrowing it fairly drastically..... the other thing that has been causing me a bit of trouble is the fact that the frame tapers to the front and is not parallel.

Use the frame you have.

Cut the offending portion off, and rework that to what it needs to be.

Weld it back onto the rear part of the frame.

You know how.
 
I didn't mean to confuse the issue. The way I see it, if it's not a straight axle, it's a dropped axle whether it was manufactured that way, or modified and dropped further.

I know this doesn't fit the traditional definition of "dropped axle" and I hope you can appreciate my point of view...

I know what you meant, but it does confuse the definition to a novice. The way I see it, if the axle sits the vehicle at intended factory height, it's not a dropped axle, regardless of it's shape. A factory axle is just that, while a dropped axle has been modified to lower the vehicle.

I always appreciate your point of view though. ;)
 
I know what you meant, but it does confuse the definition to a novice. The way I see it, if the axle sits the vehicle at intended factory height, it's not a dropped axle, regardless of it's shape. A factory axle is just that, while a dropped axle has been modified to lower the vehicle.

I always appreciate your point of view though. ;)

Agreed. This is the generally accepted terminology.

As for the OP's question, if you want to use the existing frame using parallel leafs and get it low with reasonable front end travel, I think you'll need to Z the frame. This will be the simplest and most cost effective way to achieve what you want using your existing parts.

That said, sometimes it's not worth sticking to a budget when it's safer and smarter in the long run to delay the project a bit by spending more money in the suspension department to get the right parts and do it right the first time.
 
confused

now l am really confused[S

is this one a drop axle or a factory height one:confused:

Later:cool:
 

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