'36 Chevy Sedan "The PackRat Rod"

And with a false bottom over the pan in the trunk behind the panel, I'll have easy - but hidden - access to the backs of the tail lights, room for jack stowage, tire iron, etc.

I like it. I like it alot![P

Haven't checked in for awhile.... Keeps looking better and better.[[P

Regards,
Shea

The coolness factor on this car is off the charts!! You do some great work! Nice idea with the false bottom too!

RimSpoke said:

And with a false bottom over the pan in the trunk behind the panel, I'll have easy - but hidden - access to the backs of the tail lights, room for jack stowage, tire iron, etc.

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After reading this: http://www.wired.com/threatlevel/2013/03/alfred-anaya/all/ you might make the compartment obvious.

Flipper_1938 said:

After reading this: http://www.wired.com/threatlevel/2013/03/alfred-anaya/all/ you might make the compartment obvious.

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From the link:
"There is nothing intrinsically illegal about building traps, which are commonly used to hide everything from pricey jewelry to legal handguns. But the activity runs afoul of California law if an installer knows for certain that his compartment will be used to transport drugs."

Thanks for the info. Consider me informed. Since the spare in my Acura sits hidden by the manufacturer under trunk floor, I'll pass on the worries. If you'd like to discuss it further in detail or with others, it might be a good idea to start a different thread on "hidden compartments" so other interested readers can find it more easily.

jfg455 said:

I like it. I like it alot![P

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That S-10 link in your signature is just too cool! [cl
BTW, I liked what you did with your speedo. I'll be referencing that post when I redo the stock gauges in this.

Shea Laking said:

Haven't checked in for awhile.... Keeps looking better and better.[[P

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I appreciate that a man of your obvious character has been willing to follow along with my work. I always look forward to your input.

Neverdone said:

The coolness factor on this car is off the charts!! You do some great work!

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I'm glad you like it. I hope it continues as well as it's been coming along. Maybe someday, like you, I'll actually be ordering tires.

First steps towards working on the drivetrain

Those pics don't tell us much......

And with the body obviously off the frame as shown above, I can start removing all the old drivetrain and clutter of brackets that will no longer be necessary:

With that done, I can make a lower, front cross-member that will allow the top of the grill shell to align with the channeled body.

The box tube between the front rails was welded in place to hold the width before cutting the crossmember loose. The plate behind it is 1/4" with some 1-1/2" box tube behind that. The piece in the very rear is 3/8".

I took some of the 1/4" x 8-1/2" x 48", heated it at measured distances from the center and bent it to match the original. Then I tacked a "T" to it with some soapstone marks indicating the inside width of the frame rails. This allowed me to make my next set of bends for the drop at equal angles and end-up with something that fit and was centered. All that's needed it to cut the excess to length.

But before I weld anything solid, I want to make sure:

• the front of the frame is level
• the rear of the frame is also level
• the frame is level front to rear
• the crossmember is level - side-to-side & front-to-rear

Then I welded it in along with a piece of the 1-1/2" square box to mimic the original grill shell/radiator mount that allows for the lower radiator connection and I cut a hole to minimize accumulations.

I'm now to the point where I've got the whole thing flipped-over and can solidify the cross-piece with more box tube.

I reinforced the underside of the crossmember yesterday with some of the 1-1/2" square box.



I ran the box tube along the sides, but used a strip of 1/4" for the
very bottom. With the box tube on the top side already, there was no
need to make hang down it any lower.



And I flipped it back over to mock-up the front suspension.

With the frame upside-down, I cut some of the unnecessary bulk from the front and back of the crossmember. I made a template from some card stock so the curve would be the same on both sides and set after it with the torch and grinder.

Cutting the curve in the front not only eliminates some of the bulkiness but since the axle also has that rearward curvature to it, it allowed me to set it back just that little bit more to get the wheel center inline with the grill as viewed from the profile.

Once I flipped the frame back over and got everything where I wanted it, I placed the mounting bracket I made earlier on top of the spring so I could start taking some measurements.

I know I could’ve welded a piece of square-box tube between the rails and called it good, but what would be the fun in that?

Instead, I cut a piece of 1/4″ to shape with the right amount of drop to meet the mounting bracket and poked a few holes in it for good measure.

Then, by alternating heat from the torch with welding, I was able to bend that face-piece to match the curve of the 1/4" I cut for a top.

Granted that all of this would have been much easier had I owned a drill press or still had a band saw, but I was raised on the old axiom that “It’s a poor craftsman who blames his tools.”

It may have taken me longer – much longer – to do it this way, but it got done.

Try as I might to weld as close to the leaf-spring pin centering hole without messing it up, I noticed a small booger in the hole between 3 & 4 o’clock when I was done. Sure enough, it prevented the spring from seating fully on its mount when I tried to test fit everything.

I have a small chainsaw sharpening file that would fit, but if you’ve ever tried to hand file a weld with the smallest of hand tools, you’ll know why I was happy to have a dremel.

From there it was just a matter of sitting down and finalizing all the welds.