Quick and dirty LS swapped C2500

jfg455 said:

Yes it does. It uses a slim lock ring and an O ring to mount it. I can post more detailed pics of the sending unit and how it mounts with measurements if you would like.

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Thanks jfg455 that would be great. You want to sell it? I thought about just buying one but it would be nice to have an old one to mess up instead of a new one.

I would have to devise a mounting plate to go on the aluminum fuel cell.

After my last trip to the pull a part we came to a mutual agreement that I won't ever be darkening their door again. Bunch of druggies.

If you want it you can have it. The top tubes are rusty which is typical of a north east vehicle. It would be for mock up only.

Thanks for the pics. That tells me what I need to know.
Why does it have 4 lines? Does the truck have a vapor canister on it?
If it's not to much trouble I would appreciate it.

I'll send you a PM with an address.

I-R-POPS said:

Thanks for the pics. That tells me what I need to know.
Why does it have 4 lines? Does the truck have a vapor canister on it?
If it's not to much trouble I would appreciate it.

I'll send you a PM with an address.

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Biggest pipe is the tank vent tube that goes up by the fill cap. Then there is 1 fuel feed and 1 return feed pipe for the injection. Last is the charcoal canister vent tube.

jfg455 said:

Biggest pipe is the tank vent tube that goes up by the fill cap. Then there is 1 fuel feed and 1 return feed pipe for the injection. Last is the charcoal canister vent tube.

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That scary, that's just what I thought.
I for see another unauthorized modification and installation in my future.
Please don't tell my Dodge it will be getting a transplant from a Chevy!!!!!!!!!!!

Apparently this rig has taken offense to the "quick and dirty" moniker and has turned into just dirty...What should have been an easy 2 hour lowering kit install is now going into day 3. Every bolt in the rear springs are frozen. SO to get them out I have to cut off the brackets, push out the sleeve with the bolt rusted into it with a ball joint press, then drill out the rubber, then collapse the metal sleeve with an air hammer then drive it out. It is taking around an hour per bushing / bolt combo. I have one side trimmed and ready for the new bushings. I still have to pick up new bolts. I decided to stop swearing at it and slobbery some pretty on it (and to keep it from rusting away as fast up here).

I've got 5 acres of land in beautiful Tome New Mexico, I will sell you.
We don't have that kind of rust problems here.

Keep hammering on it.

sounds interesting I am all to familiar with that stuff

POPS - the pump is on its way to you

So this truck is testing my patience but I'm way to stuborn to let it win. I pulled the other side apart and found something I haven't seen before. The front spring eye had busted in half...Now the correct way to fix it is to replace the spring. Then I would have to replace the other side so it would sit right. I wasn't about to take the other side out so instead I made a new spring eye half out of some heavy wall tube and welded it back in. New bushings, brackets in and new lowering shocks. So as it sits the rear suspension is now done...

So my Scotish / Italian temper or bull headedness has paid off. All of the suspension is back together and it is on the ground again. I put the bed back on today and have been attempting to fire it up. So far I've had a no crank due to me not bolting the negative cable to the block. Fixed that and the ground wire for the PCM that should have gone to the same stud (old age is creeping in...memory...is...fading...) Then found a pin missing in the fuel pump circuit so no fuel pressure. Fixed that only to find a fuel leak instead. Fixed that and then found the LS1 to LS2 conversion cam sensor harness needed the pins from A to C swapped (different configuration on the front mount CMP sensor). Fixed that and removed the VATS (theft deterrent) so it should have started....emphasis on should...Cranks, spark, fuel injector pulse and fuel pressure are all good. Plugs are dry. Fires on starting fluid....Seems the "clean" set of injectors and intake I've had on the shelf that I swapped on might have stuck injectors...grrr...I can hear it laughing from here...[cl

That's why I won't fool around much with FI. Too many wires and things to go wrong. No patience on my part doesn't help matters either.
Keep plugging at it, I know you'll figure it out. I'd give up and throw a carb on it......

Just think of how awesome a ride it will be once you figure out all the gremlins. You'll get there!

So the consensus seems to be that the injectors themselves have actually stuck closed from sitting. I will need to take them off and bench cycle / clean them and try again.[cl

So glad there are guys like you out there that understand this stuff
it's all above my pay grade....to old to try and learn, to many carb engines
in the waiting, anyway I do enjoy following along and who knows I
might just pick up on a thing or two.....

So it was the injectors. All 8 were stuck closed. A little tapping, manual cycling and some air pressure lossened them all up. It now runs good. Small issue of the belt being out of alignment and eating itself...and a vicious drive shaft vibration...looks like I will need to take it to be balanced after all... and the power steering pump is junk...

jfg455 said:

So it was the injectors. All 8 were stuck closed. A little tapping, manual cycling and some air pressure lossened them all up. It now runs good. Small issue of the belt being out of alignment and eating itself...and a vicious drive shaft vibration...looks like I will need to take it to be balanced after all... and the power steering pump is junk...

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IT RUNS!!!!! [cl[cl[cl

I am actually really excited to see this finished, it's exactly something I would do.

They call those issues "teething problems", you'll have it sorted in no time!

Will you burn off those tiny tires before putting the nice ones on? [ddd

You set it up for the possibility of boost, when is the turbo going in?

05snopro440 said:

IT RUNS!!!!! [cl[cl[cl

I am actually really excited to see this finished, it's exactly something I would do.

They call those issues "teething problems", you'll have it sorted in no time!

Will you burn off those tiny tires before putting the nice ones on? [ddd

You set it up for the possibility of boost, when is the turbo going in?

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Thanks Snopro. I want to get some miles on it as a N/A build before I decide to add a hair dryer to it. I just got my 6.0L LY6 block and crank back from the machine shop for my LSA blower build. I want to drive my chevelle this year with that in it (haven't touched it in 10 years ) before I start into another turbo setup.

I might have allegedly caused a bit of tire slippage when I was turning around on the road test...that bit of teenage foolishness cost me the serp belt and half the wires to the cooling fans! [cl

Soo...I took my home made drive shaft down to the guys who usually make them for me...I won't tell you what he said about it as it isn't family friendly but I'll paraphrase a little... "It **** off a **** 1/4". Who the **** did this pile of ***?1 Don't ever **** do that a *** again! LOl Ok ok! At least I warned him ahead of time!. Jon's Shafts in Manchester has been building all my drive shafts for the last 15 years or so and does an outstanding job. To cut apart, fix and balance my 2 piece shaft only cost my $100. [cl

I also milled about 3/16" off my A/C mount and it looks like it will run straight now. While I was in there I replaced the power steering pump that was junk and neatened up the wiring some more. I got a new belt and P/S fluid today but ran out of time to drive it again. And I painted the inside and outside of the roll pan for the rear so I can get that in as well. Oh and I made up a mount to hold the air filter as it was just laying there as well. [P

Cool, looks great, John.

So I guess we can check this off as finished. I should have my ECT sensor this afternoon (98 Camaro 3 wire to run the stock gauge). I registered it today, popped on the 20's and have been driving it. Of course it would start snowing today! Lol Still a slight drive shaft vibration but I think that will be cured by spacing the center bearing up about 1/2"