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125" is a real short FMD as most altered are based on a 125" chassis. Maybe split it in the middle at 145". I know you will come up with a great looking & running FMD. ;)[cl[S
 
The windshield assembly is pretty much done except for some more welding and grinding. Now on to the dash. I trimmed it and it will be recessed as shown. Got to make a smooth transition to the cowl top. It needs to be removable because I've got work to do to make the gauges back mounted.

There's 51 holes in the firewall. Being rather lazy and not wanting to weld them closed I'm considering covering it with a sheet of polished aluminum. It will add to the 4o's-50's vibe. The problem is the unique beading on the firewall will be hidden. Oh well, a small sacrifice.

If we don't get too much snow tonight I'll make the 100 mile trek to pick up the third Jeep engine, which will provide the preferred head and a spare block.

Tom, I figure most Altereds are like you say, 125" wheelbase. They can easily run high 10's without handling problems so a front engine dragster should be able to do that too. I'll probably have the engine a bit more forward than most dragsters.
 

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Bob, You are surely on the right track with the FMD setup. Both of my altered handled very well with 125" WB chassis and they were both injected on alcohol BBC's, a little more length always helps. Your 100% right on that as a 10.00 - 10.50 ride it will be no problem.[cl

Like I have always said "build it like you want it & drive it like you stole it"[;)

That dash is going to be the talking point on this project. Way cool!! ;):cool:
 
Blowing snow and icy roads kept me from getting the Jeep engine today. Worked a little on fitting the dashboard to the cowl.

There's no plan to build a frame and running gear for this body this winter. I just wanted to see if I could assemble the body out of junk I had laying around. Soon I'll push this one aside and work on finishing the Bantam and Roadster Pickup.
 

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I'm pretty interested in how much power can be made with a mild stroker Jeep engine. We'll see, Tom. Thinking of 125" wheelbase on the dragster rattling around in my mind. Probably same carbs and set up that is on the 300" Ford in the present dragster. With an adapter I can run a Powerglide.

There's still more work to be done on the stanchions and windshield frame. Here's what it looks like tacked and taped in place. Got some gaps to resolve and a few more pieces to weld in place.

It's kinda tall but that is the plan as this build is supposed to look like a 40's-50's hot rod. Not a modern adaption of one. Nothing too radical.

They made a Torque Flite that fit a 258 block. Wish you were closer, I'd give you mine!
 
As much as I enjoy following this latest build, finishing the roadster pickup and the Bantam will be a fun "worm" inside the shop winter project. Looking forward to seeing both cruising to the coffee shop & the Bantam making a couple of passes at the strip.[cl[cl[cl Happy Holidays From The Left Coast
 
I got the gauges back mounted and am trying to figure out how to mount the panel in the cowl. I have nothing to fill the speedometer hole with. Maybe my wedding picture? The other hole is for a multifunction switch. The brass bezel has a steel insert in it. Presently it is soaking in vinegar to get some of the rust off.

After I cover the firewall I'll push it aside and return to the Bantam.

smallfoot, I get an auto trans with the 4.0 Jeep engine I pick up this weekend. If the Jeep engine ends up in this roadster instead of a new dragster I will use it.
 

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Lucky me. I found a speedometer in attic of forgotten treasures. All the gauges are in place and the panel mounts are fabbed. Next, covering the firewall with aluminum on the outside and plywood on the inside.
 

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hey bob, how about just putting rivets in the holes?

Gary, the screws are temporary. I'll either paint them to match the rusted dashboard or find truss head screws and do likewise.

I could weld them on the back side and grind the heads off. Then touch the front side up so nothing shows. Some of the screws have to be 2 1/2" long.
 
Neat SW speedometer, never saw one set up like that before. Dig the Sears and Roebuck Temp gauge! That has to be 60's or maybe 70's!

Carriage head bolts would look good on the dash.
 
Bob, that is one fine looking dash. Do all the gauges work or are they just for the correct look? A real conversation piece. Get your other Jeep motor yet?[cl
 
Tom, the oil pressure and volt gauges work for sure. The temp gauge is electric so it'll need the correct sender. The speedo is cable driven and should hook up to whatever transmission ends up in the roadster.

The dash looks pretty bare. Maybe pin striping or some other ornamentation should be added. That's for later, much later.

Today, despite much lower digestive system distress, I travelled 100 miles east and picked up the third Jeep engine. This one for the cylinder head. I'll take it apart tomorrow and see how good it is. Probably save the block for a spare. Or I could use the left over parts from the two 4.0 engines and build one for this project. Otherwise it's gonna get a sb Chevy.

Thanks everyone for your encouraging comments. It keeps me going (although I had trouble stopping today:eek:).
 

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