Undead Sleds - Hot Rods, Rat Rods, Beaters & Bikes... since 2007!

Go Back   Undead Sleds - Hot Rods, Rat Rods, Beaters & Bikes... since 2007! > Frame/Suspension/Brake... Talk & Q&A

Frame/Suspension/Brake... Talk & Q&A All things... Frame/Suspension/Brake

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 11-10-2017, 03:56 AM
DozerII's Avatar
DozerII DozerII is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Saskatchewan Can.
Posts: 1,370
Default

Thanks for all the great info and ideas everyone, triangulated it is.
__________________
Glen
My 29 Essex Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34026

Don't give up, it's far too much fun once you can drive it.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-13-2017, 07:39 PM
Dr Crankenstein's Avatar
Dr Crankenstein Dr Crankenstein is offline
Rocket Surgeon
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SK CAN
Posts: 4,195
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DozerII View Post
I'm not real comfortable with welding to the center section on the Chevy diff, but maybe the upper arms can be mounted just outboard of it?
Don't be afraid to weld on the center section. It's cast steel and should weld like a common mild steel. I have two recommendations, however...

- The cast piece is heavy and quite thick, depending where the brackets fall. A little preheat would help penetration. 150-200 F will suffice and a common temp-stick will tell you when to quit.

- If you plan to leave the bearings and axles in the housing during the procedure, place your ground clamp where the current and arc cannot pass through the bearings. (Don't clip your ground clamp to a wheel stud or axle flange.)

Dump the fluid, of course.

.
__________________
- The distinction between psychological illness and creative thinking is wafer thin -
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-13-2017, 08:34 PM
BillM's Avatar
BillM BillM is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 406
Default

Twice now I've used WelderSeries Triangulated kit - inexpensive, well made and Canadian to boot. (should make shipping a little easier)

I've used many of their products - and always been impressed with their stuff and support.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-14-2017, 03:21 AM
DozerII's Avatar
DozerII DozerII is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Saskatchewan Can.
Posts: 1,370
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Crankenstein View Post
Don't be afraid to weld on the center section. It's cast steel and should weld like a common mild steel. I have two recommendations, however...

- The cast piece is heavy and quite thick, depending where the brackets fall. A little preheat would help penetration. 150-200 F will suffice and a common temp-stick will tell you when to quit.

- If you plan to leave the bearings and axles in the housing during the procedure, place your ground clamp where the current and arc cannot pass through the bearings. (Don't clip your ground clamp to a wheel stud or axle flange.)

Dump the fluid, of course.

.
Thanks Doc, once I get the kit and frame shortened I can figure out where the brackets will have to be welded.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillM View Post
Twice now I've used WelderSeries Triangulated kit - inexpensive, well made and Canadian to boot. (should make shipping a little easier)

I've used many of their products - and always been impressed with their stuff and support.
Thanks Bill I will check them out.
__________________
Glen
My 29 Essex Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34026

Don't give up, it's far too much fun once you can drive it.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:38 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Rat Rods Rule Inc.