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  #51  
Old 11-13-2017, 10:57 PM
joedoh joedoh is offline
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no prob!

I REEEEEEEEEALLY didnt want to do rust repair and I figured the sure way to make me do it was to beauty up the cab a little. I didnt like that it was more rust than paint, I dont mind rust but it was like 80% and more than that after pressure washing. I found a green (charleston green) that was really close to the original juniper green, but it didnt really look close when I put it on, and when I sanded it the blue in the juniper green really started to show.

I watched some patina videos and didnt really like what I saw, painting the whole truck several times. I decided to break down what was wrong with the charleston green and make a plan to fix it. I ignored flash times and laid down a wet black, a wet navy blue, a wet hunter green, and then topped with the wet charleston green. it was really runny and thick, I was aiming to let it mix as a miasma instead of distinct layers, knowing I was going to sand it back.
IMG_7724 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I sanded it back with some 120 grit then some 320 when I started seeing color

53223155830__2C23AA26-CC3B-4F22-A369-619E15EF3D8C-1 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


I like it. the door is the original color and I think after some wet sanding I will be there.

so today I started on the floor. my temp brace was still holding so I cut back to good steel and started by making the brace for between the door jambs and mocking up the first floor piece
IMG_7725 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

one brace wasnt going to cut it for the seats, so I added some support.
IMG_7728 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I drilled a million holes, going for the monocoque strength tie to the original cross bar and floor.
IMG_7729 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7731 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


so tomorrow I will get some pipe for a pass through of the rear body mounts and make a tie in to the back wall. I over lapped the pieces in the center so its already super strong, gonna be stronger, without adding a bunch of useless tube.

supposed to rain a bunch tommorrow, maybe I will have it back on the frame and working the pedals. maybe
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  #52  
Old 11-14-2017, 03:13 AM
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DozerII DozerII is offline
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great progress, I like how the paint/patina is looking.
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  #53  
Old 11-14-2017, 07:05 AM
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smallfoot smallfoot is online now
He's rockin' the "Nuttin Special"!
 
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Hey Joe, not trying to screw the pooch in your build but where did you find the info for the color...juniper green? I can't find that in the original colors. Did you id the cab to a 1941 for sure? Some of the colors change for different years.
Mine is a 46 for sure and I'm planning on paint for this build. Mine was what they call Export Blue originally and I plan to go back to that, but I am looking at the other original colors to see if I might not like other colors better. I just can't find a Juniper green listed. I've got info from 37-46 for colors and more for just 46 only, but I don't have anything for 41 alone...
Keep up the good work. Truck is gonna be killer...
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  #54  
Old 11-14-2017, 08:58 AM
joedoh joedoh is offline
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juniper is my descriptor, not the paint chip color from chevrolet. its a darker ivy green with some blue in it. they had two greens in 41 and this is the darker color. I am not having paint mixed to match, I am using rattle cans to get close.

most of the trucks I buy are the lighter green that seems to be on every truck from the 40s/50s, so this color was a welcome change


forgot to mention after 2 months got the registration straight

IMG_7726 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

Last edited by joedoh; 11-14-2017 at 09:46 AM.
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  #55  
Old 11-14-2017, 04:54 PM
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smallfoot smallfoot is online now
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Oh OK! That's cool! I was just wondering if you found another color that was original. The darker of the two greens I've found for those years is called Brewster Green The lighter green was called Apple Green.
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  #56  
Old 11-14-2017, 10:15 PM
joedoh joedoh is offline
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brewster green, good to know! thanks

here is the stock coloring on the doors vs my added color on the roof. you can see all the colors represented.
IMG_7734 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7733 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

the rear of the floor was next today. it has this weird multi layer sandwich of metal for the body mounts and only the top layer was rusted, but what I DIDNT want to happen was for the layers to collapse when you tighten the body bolt down. I devised a plan to cap the rusted part with some 11ga, and use tubes to weld all the layers together, making it crush proof and give a good tie to the rectangle tube I put in yesterday.
IMG_7738 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7739 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
IMG_7740 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

instead of welding the patch in the back way I decided to screw it in for now, in case I need to adjust some of the floor I made. that hole was convenient to get to some areas I wouldnt have been able to otherwise.

IMG_7741 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

I would have put the cab back on today but I took a long time designing the repair for the front body mount, so tomorrow.
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  #57  
Old 11-17-2017, 07:18 PM
joedoh joedoh is offline
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well it aint gonna fix itself. after staring at the body mounts for a couple days I decided to jump right in, complicated planning wasnt going to fix it. The problem was the mount was a channel and the outside of the channel had rusted off, so the body mount was just flat steel, and the weight of the cab twisted it this way and that. I looked at cutting it all off and rebuilding it but I will be honest, that was a lot of work for a truck I just pieced the floor back together on. so I went simple, flat steel under the mount with a hole for the bolt to pass through, and rebuild the outside channel by welding it to the cowl for support. now the repair is under compression (instead of tension if I had cut the old mount off) and the bolt clamps the repair together just like my rear mount repair.
IMG_7765 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

quickadiddle and done. I broke my tacks and put the rear body mounts in the correct place (they were 2" off) and dropped the cab on again.
53265410022__4A06A139-F0B2-4142-9290-3A0700E8DD13 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

the engine move worked out perfect, the dizzy has room, the valve cover is an inch off the firewall, the shift lever is in the perfect place. I dont think this one will even need a trans bump.
IMG_7767 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

and the state was quick as usual, tagged it monday, title in the mail friday. DO YOUR HOMEWORK. the DMV appreciates it
53265482534__4B0ED89F-5FA0-4924-94BF-8D075259A336 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
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  #58  
Old 11-17-2017, 08:08 PM
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skull skull is offline
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Default sweet

looks really nice

Later
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  #59  
Old Yesterday, 11:37 PM
Burgerman Burgerman is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2015
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Default Cab Rehab

Nice cab work Joe. Look'n fine.
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