1934 Plymouth five window

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OI, I was surprised and slightly offended at their 'I don't care' attitude. By the time I buy some pricey US made thing with Canadian money [which is dropping steadily now], and pay the freight all the way up here, the price is at least double. Then I was told 'well, you'll just have to buy another starter'. That's when my Scottish heritage came out. I found out that a lot of Chrysler flat head six starters will fit on a Hemi up until the end of 1956. Some old flathead starters are an inch and half shorter.
After dismantling, cleaning and testing the Massey-Harris starter, I happily primered it, installed it, shot it, took it back off, painted it and re-installed it. [pic 1]
After fixing my welder some more, I finished welding up my front motor mount. [pic 2] is the mount installed in primer.
 

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Looks like you discovered they made mini starters for these when mini starters weren't cool :D
[P [P [P
[P* :cool: *[P
[P [P [P
 
Here's the painted front motor mount installed, and, the whiteish chunk of metal in there is the bottom, anchor end of the power steering tightener bracket.
Do any of you know how a Dodge steering pump will run a Mustang 2 front axle?
I'm lopsided by one degree so I looked around for the culprit. It seems that weird steering shaft routing is to blame. One of the Heim joints is touching the starter. The whole steering shaft will have to be rerouted so I can fix that.
I spent quite a bit of time crawling under the car and trying to come up with a bellhousing crossmember and pedal mount, and how to attach it to the frame. I got nothing.
 

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Naw, POPS one degree is OK but the Mickey Mouse engineering that went into the steering shaft has to go. It has too many sharp corners that the U-joints can't go around and it hit's the starter.
And I didn't want you guys to think I was a roughshod, careless RRR. [ddd

Chevrod31, you sent me a PM and I cannot respond properly so I will talk to you through this channel. I live outside of Grande Prairie, and will be down in Red Deer on the first week-end in May to your big swap-meet. In fact I wouldn't miss it. It would be nice to meet some of the RRR group.
 
1 degree ?
Do you want some cheese with that whine [ddd
I do know why it bothers you though. It does me the same way [S
 
s'smitty, that colour is dark brown camouflage ultra flat. I use it a bit when I'm trying to hide some fixing on old rusty metal. A light misting or two of this camouflage brown and maybe another misting of flat black and you're good to go.
OI, I'll get over it and end up dead on, I think. On the front to back measurement the motor is between 3 and 4 degrees, so that's cool.
OI, I hope I didn't mislead you on buying your Chevy roof. At that time I didn't know you had the rest of the body and, I hadn't run this possible ten day road trip past the Mrs. yet. I now know where the bear s&%t in the woods.
 
Thank you Dr. Crank'. I've read your article and printed it off. Boy, is that ever my kind of fix. Way down at the bottom it says don't reduce the pressure if you have rack steering, and I assume that means Mopar rack, so I will do a little more homework to find out about hotrod rack steering. Thank you Dr., you're a breath of fresh air.
 
Speedway and others sell a inline pressure reducer for using a GM Saginaw pump with a Mustang II rack. I don't know about the MoPar pump, it could be the same as the GM one.
 
Last night, for homework, I went on U-tube and watched an abrasive DIY guy telling how to adjust that relief valve. While I was hoping he'd snap his own thumb in the Vise-Grips, I did hear him say that Mustang ll racks need about 1000# pressure to work nicely. That sounds like one more shim in the relief valve will fit the bill.
 
Last night, for homework, I went on U-tube and watched an abrasive DIY guy telling how to adjust that relief valve. While I was hoping he'd snap his own thumb in the Vise-Grips, I did hear him say that Mustang ll racks need about 1000# pressure to work nicely. That sounds like one more shim in the relief valve will fit the bill.
:eek:As hard as I am trying not to, LOL!:rolleyes:
 
Skip, sometimes you crack me up. Lol.
Today I worked on a John Deere AR starter. It needs new bushings. Boy, does it need new bushings.
The picture is of the power steering pump partly painted and it now has a thicker shim in the relief valve, so it should be good to go. I am a funny bugger when it comes to steering though, I kinda' like nice easy power steering. That 'road feeling' that people talk about is for coffee shop truckers, not me. I think that by the time you feel what the front tires have run over it's a bit too late. I don't want to dislocate my shoulders steering so I can feel the rough road. Anyhow, I set the pressure down in this pump and we'll see how it goes.
In the background you will see the '33 Plymouth seat that will go in the '34.
 

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A wide swath was not cut today. Here's my seat propped up in the car to a comfortable height. I measured how far the steering wheel has to be away from the dash to be comfortable and so I can still step on the clutch and brake. There was a 'first ever' today. I sat on the seat making V-8 noises and that car has never, ever heard V-8 noises before. So there! Out on my scrounging trip I found the gas pedal I will be using,a '72 Dart pedal and cable.

Today I ordered a Dodge Brothers logo for the tailgate of my '34 truck. One of those computer laser tin cutters is making it. I met him at the local Agri-fair and he liked my dream so he is gung ho.
 

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