1933 chevy tudor sedan aka Project Copper Tone!

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well, I finished up the rear end on Thursday and yesterday I made my brackets for one side but ran out of oxy for my torch so it looks like I need bigger bottles. I gotta look through the shop to see if there's some empty bottles lyin around to exchange. I know for sure that there's an empty CO2 bottle but haven't found any others aside from huge old propane bottles and I really don't wanna run a propane setup so we'll see what happens. Hopefully this week I can get to cutting more brackets out and get the front end done. I'll try to remember to take some pictures of the rear end tomorrow.
 
As promised, a "few" more pictures.

null_zps87bafa11.jpg


null_zps0fa6fcda.jpg


null_zps5f49d616.jpg


null_zpsa1f69c58.jpg


null_zps9d5ed040.jpg


null_zpsd0904613.jpg


null_zps2175dde5.jpg


null_zps11b4fc77.jpg


And just cause no one has seen the wheels that started this build...

null_zps4dc4b7e4.jpg


null_zpsbe59768d.jpg
 
everything's looking good!

you may want to re-think that rear panhard rod, it should be parallel to the ground, and run along the center line of the rear end. that would give the best compromise in ride and handling.

with it at the present angle, hitting a bump or pot hole while cornering could cause it to react in a nasty way.

Peace, Love, and Happy Motoring.
 
I agree with Blue. You need to raise the panhard mount on the differential. Think of that end moving through a portion of a circle as the suspension cycles. As it is mounted now the panhard will move the axle sideways as it cycles. This will result in large amounts of rear bump steer. You will also gain clearance over the centre section.
 
No there are not. I'm not worried about body roll as I only plan on driving this around town and well, highest speed limit is 45 and that's a straight shot up the hill. In fact, up here with it being so low I will only be able to drive on 3 streets. If it doesn't work out, I can always get a shorter leaf spring and put shackles on the ends.
 
There will be no travel with the front suspension setup that way, when the spring compresses it will need to be able to lengthen, in the setup you have, it will not be able to do so.
You may just need to re-fab your perches to be further out slightly, but also taller to allow for the shackle to look like this
model20T20coupe20low20blow20009.jpg
 
Ditto what DR pointed out. The only front suspension you have now is the flex in the sidewalls of the tires. You can get by with a shackle on one side only. There was a well-known hot rod parts company making a "dead perch" for that application. I believe it was originated in early dirt track cars. However, I'd pt two shackles on it if it were mine.

Might as well fix it now while you are fabricating and you'll be a lot happier and safer in the end.
 
So, I didn't get much done today as I went on a hunt for ideas. Found a leaf spring that is gonna work a lot better. It's sorta stuff compared to the one I was gonna use but will be better for the weight if the engine. And I redid my brackets so I can install some home made shackles. Anyhow, thanks for everyone's input, I may be a dumb kid but I will take all criticism into consideration. Anyhow, a couple of pictures of the "new" brackets. And don't worry, I will be reinforcing the brackets on the back side. I just ran out of time to do that today.

null_zps99353f1f.jpg


null_zps9263d8c9.jpg
 
Try a J Bar for your pan hard. Or lengthen your mounts to run more parallel to the axle. The setup you have now looks like the rear would shift to the left about 2" on a good bump.
 

Attachments

  • j bar.JPG
    j bar.JPG
    10.8 KB · Views: 9
You can also smooth out a stiff leaf spring by working it over on a big stationary belt sander. You would need to disassemble it and do each leaf. I need to do this on my front spring. It helps the look of the spring.

If you get a chance look at a 1947 Ford car front spring. The ends of each leaf are tapered. This really helps the ride.
 
If your shackles are going in the hole under the spring then it isn't going to work. Take a look at some other builds. Your shackles need to go straight out from your spring so they are at a 45 degree angle under weight.
 
I'll be very blunt.

Stop fabricating until you fully get the geometry sorted out. We will help. You will only cause yourself more work otherwise.

Front suspension: You must use shackles. Those brackets will not work where they sit. The upper holes are to far away for that length of spring. The lower holes won't work at all. The spring holes need to be lower than the bracket holes. Again, shackles must be used.

Study the geometry of the bracket, spring, and shackle geometry on the previous page.
 
Sam, why? Why does the spring have to be almost directly under the mount? I would think that as long as the shackles are at a 45 degree, it wouldn't matter how short or long they are. Maybe what I have envisioned isn't what everyone else sees but then again, I'm nuts.
 
The panhard needs to be level at ride height, over the axle is fine it's the height of the mounting point on the axle that's the problem. If I was you I would lower the frame mount and raise the axle mount to get it where it's level.

As far as the front axle I think I see what you're trying to do. It looks to me like you're going to use the upper holes for the shackle mounts, is that right? Longer shackles might cause a problem with the axle moving front and back under braking or big bumps.

These are just my opinions, and I'm no expert but I do know a little lol.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top