Front leaf spring

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53 stickfigure

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
437
Location
Ohio
I'm running the stock 50 f1 straight axle with a 390 4 speed and no front end, just an old Studebaker grille. The engine will be slightly behind the axle. Both my leafs are broke. I'm thinking of 27 inch trailer leafs. I've researched some old threads, some run 1250 lb and some 1500. I'd like a decent ride. Would 1250 lb sag too much with the 390 and cast iron tranny? The 1500 lb are 4 leaf.
 
I wanted to add that they are 1500 lb each, which would be 3000 lb capacity. I'd think that would be way too much spring. I found another set at 2000 lbs, 1000lb each at only 20 inches long. I'd guess I'll have close to 1000 lbs up front with the engine not counting the wheels and axle. I'm not sure how to determine what will work and have a smooth ride?
 
My experience with trailer springs is that they suck on anything but a trailer. Way too stiff, not enough travel. I’ve only rode in one car with them on the front. A falcon gasser with the lightest trailer springs he could find and it might as well had no springs on the front. Bouncy bouncy bouncy
 
Like Nailhead said, trailer springs are for trailers. They're crude, rough and noisy.

Find a spring shop and give them all the details...

.
 
Why not just use the stock 50 f1 front springs that’s what I have on my 53 gasser
 
If it's only a broken leaf or two a local spring shop should be able to accommodate you. Otherwise, F1 springs are easy to come by.

Trailer springs are for trailers...
 
I found a spring shop to make me set for $150. I gave them an approximate weight and length and they're hooking me up. Thanks guys
 
There was a very interesting segment on one of the car shows the other night (I think the one where they convert gas cars to electric power), and they showed how leaf springs are made in a shop that does only that.

It was cool to see how they take a flat piece of steel, cut it to length, heat it cherry red, and then hammer it into the arc shape. Then they have these two machines, one starts the bend of the eye on the end, and the second one rolls that into the eye shape.

Next step was how they heat it again and then drop it into a bath of oil to temper it. Evidently, this is how it has been done since the horse and buggy days, but it was fun to watch them doing it.
 
The frame width on the 50 f1 is around 31 inches wide and the frame I built is 29 inches wide. Can I move the leafs inward on the straight axle? This is a stupid questions but I am not familiar with straight axle suspensions. I wouldn't think 3/4 inch on each side would hurt anything. I'm not sure how I'm going to mount the steering box from a c channel frame to a 2x4 frame either since the steering column goes straight into the box and I'll be 3/4 to a inch off. I'd love to see some pictures
 
Are you using the original F1 axle? If so, it's wiser to offset the frame mounts than butcher the axle.

I don't know what to tell you about the steering box, without seeing what you're planning exactly...

.
 
The frame width on the 50 f1 is around 31 inches wide and the frame I built is 29 inches wide. Can I move the leafs inward on the straight axle? This is a stupid questions but I am not familiar with straight axle suspensions. I wouldn't think 3/4 inch on each side would hurt anything. I'm not sure how I'm going to mount the steering box from a c channel frame to a 2x4 frame either since the steering column goes straight into the box and I'll be 3/4 to a inch off. I'd love to see some pictures
There are no stupid questions. Asking is smart. [cl

Sorry, I can't post the pictures in my head. Besides, they may be wrong. :p

The springs will not be happy being forced out of alignment. Forcing them "over" will put an undue strain on them. They should be straight up & down and parallel. Modified shackles, or offset hangers on the frame will address the issue.

I think the steering column will be less of an issue. Swinging the gearbox over that far will not make a big difference it the steering wheel alignment. You may need to address the geometry of the tie rods, though. Adjust the length a bit maybe.
 
I think what I'll do is sit the cab down on the frame and go from there. Fabricating mounts for the leaf springs isn't a big deal, I've got a cool idea to do that. I've got a few steering columns laying around I can use if I have to. I'll get it mocked up and post some pictures when I get ready to mount the box. The front is going to be pretty long, I'm not running fenders. Here is back half I got painted and bolted together this last weekend. I have about $700 in it.
 

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There was a very interesting segment on one of the car shows the other night (I think the one where they convert gas cars to electric power), and they showed how leaf springs are made in a shop that does only that.

It was cool to see how they take a flat piece of steel, cut it to length, heat it cherry red, and then hammer it into the arc shape. Then they have these two machines, one starts the bend of the eye on the end, and the second one rolls that into the eye shape.

Next step was how they heat it again and then drop it into a bath of oil to temper it. Evidently, this is how it has been done since the horse and buggy days, but it was fun to watch them doing it.
I love watching stuff like that.
 

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