Have any of you used a pull-type slave cyl?

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animal

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,160
Location
Downtown Hooper, CO
The '56 Ford I got in trade for my coupe has some issues, to put it mildly. One of the big problems is the clutch linkage. The person putting the 5-speed behind the 390 welded the clutch fork "keeper" to the cast-iron bellhousing........ and the linkage itself is jacked up pretty bad. I'm thinking about using a pull-type hydraulic slave cylinder to pull on the clutch fork. I have a new 3/4" Wilwood master cylinder to use with it. Has anyone out there done this, and if so, how did it work?
 
Animal, all of the hydraulic clutches that I've had since the early 70's have given me grief, so I've developed a healthy hatred for them. If you throw the hydraulics away and make a linkage from the pedal to the fork you will feel better immediately and live a stress free life for at least an extra 10 years. I will remind you that I am opinionated.
 
I used the exact setup in a 58 Ford with a 351M and a T5 5 speed with terrible results. The Wilwood master cylinder failed twice and the $300 Mcleod pull style slave (made just for the T5) failed too. All within 500 miles. The action on the clutch was horrible. Very stiff, would "stick" right about where the clutch engaged etc. I swapped to a cable setup and it is as smooth as driving an escort now. I think I did a write up on swapping in the clutch pedal, cable adjuster etc into the F100. Very easy to do.
 
I'm thinking of using the Novack push style on my Saginaw with a stock clutch and p-plate are they more reliable than the pull type?
 
What I was planning was using a pull-type linear slave, not the hydraulic throwout bearing. The linkage in the car is horribly jacked up, and I'm not sure I could come up with all the correct geometry, lengths, etc. to build it from scratch. I though I'd weld a tab on the fork and build a bracket to bolt to the trans, then hook the slave cylinder between them to pull the fork. With Heim joints on each end, I should be able to eliminate binding. At least that was my thought process. I don't have any idea what all is involved with the Mustang cable setup.... I did look at some threads on the net, but just like everything else, there are tons of different opinions of how to go about it and how well it works. I'm about to the point of trading the 390/TKO for a Coyote 5.0/AODE. :)
 

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