R.s.c. Build off car!!

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Lb, here's a trick I used on a tandem trailer that was twisted in a highway collision. Instead of moving the centre bolt, I moved the holes that the bolt heads fit into. Of course, my application was hidden more than yours so the inspectors didn't notice it. I went on to haul a lot of gravel in that trailer over the next few years, with my fix.
Food for thought.
 
Lb, here's a trick I used on a tandem trailer that was twisted in a highway collision. Instead of moving the centre bolt, I moved the holes that the bolt heads fit into. Of course, my application was hidden more than yours so the inspectors didn't notice it. I went on to haul a lot of gravel in that trailer over the next few years, with my fix.
Food for thought.

I might split the difference with this trick. It was on my radar. We will see how it pans out. Thanks!!
 
Drilling and bolting the spring pack in a second spot will change the stresses that the springs see in between that area. You will be fixing leafs that are supposed to be free-floating. This could be negligible, could result in bending or shearing the bolts, or at the worst you could bend or break the springs. Since introducing another hole in the springs and bolting it at that point is also introducing potential points for fatigue cracking in a heat treated spring, it's anyone's guess if you'll get away lucky or have issues.

Honestly, I'd personally look at either extending the frame or finding a spring pack with a shorter length.

The points mentioned above are just my engineering brain pointing out potential issues, what you do with it is up to you. :)
 
Drilling and bolting the spring pack in a second spot will change the stresses that the springs see in between that area. You will be fixing leafs that are supposed to be free-floating. This could be negligible, could result in bending or shearing the bolts, or at the worst you could bend or break the springs. Since introducing another hole in the springs and bolting it at that point is also introducing potential points for fatigue cracking in a heat treated spring, it's anyone's guess if you'll get away lucky or have issues.

Honestly, I'd personally look at either extending the frame or finding a spring pack with a shorter length.

The points mentioned above are just my engineering brain pointing out potential issues, what you do with it is up to you. :)

I hear you sir. Still contemplating. I have re drilled springs on off rpad rigs with no issues, but thats different than a car we will be driving hard on the street.
 
I hear you sir. Still contemplating. I have re drilled springs on off rpad rigs with no issues, but thats different than a car we will be driving hard on the street.

Yeah, in an off-road rig it's unlikely that an innocent will die if something goes terribly wrong. A street car like this, not so. If this was something like a trailer where the axle was trailing, it would be a lot different but I wouldn't personally be comfortable with it in your application.
 
Yeah, in an off-road rig it's unlikely that an innocent will die if something goes terribly wrong. A street car like this, not so. If this was something like a trailer where the axle was trailing, it would be a lot different but I wouldn't personally be comfortable with it in your application.

Yeah, I'm goimg to stretch the frame. Dont want to but I'm going to lol
 
I'd just redrill the mount if it's long enough. The locating pin doesn't have to be in the center of the mount, it's just to keep the mount from walking on the spring. Look at an AD series truck, people redrill the mount on them all the time to center the axle in the fender.

Wait, fenders? Hot rods don't need no stinkin' fenders ![ddd[ddd[ddd
 
I'd just redrill the mount if it's long enough. The locating pin doesn't have to be in the center of the mount, it's just to keep the mount from walking on the spring. Look at an AD series truck, people redrill the mount on them all the time to center the axle in the fender.

Wait, fenders? Hot rods don't need no stinkin' fenders ![ddd[ddd[ddd
The problem with doing that is the mount is what holds the leaf spring down. The u-bolts bolt right to the mount. So I cannot re-center the whole it is not long enough. And if that's the case why not just re drill it. I think I'm going to call our local spring shop and see if they can't make me a new top leaf. Not ideal but it'll work best. Then I won't have to stretch the frame
 
I kind of agree with you on the fenders oh, but I'm giving a couple things to my dad he wants so hopefully we can do a couple things I know he's not going to want to do but I do LOL. So he wants vendors he's going to get them
 
I was just picking at you on the fenders, I like’em both ways.
Lots of springs have a long and short end, so I don’t see a problem with it. If I ever have new ones made for the rear of my car I’m going to have them about 1” longer to the rear instead of having to cut off the shackle mount and move it.
 
So I ordered a shorter set of Springs today. I'm going to take the two of them and make a hybrid pair out of them, hope this works
 

Latest posts

Back
Top