42 chevrolet ratrod

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ok, so lets say I do use the s10 frame that is in the pictures. and im putting a v8 in place of the v6 that came in the s10. would I need to move the motor back? or forward? I haven't set the motor in it, with the cab. I may be convinced just to use what is already here. if I have to stretch the frame a couple inches or just move the rearend back a few inches when I put in a fourlink setup wont be a problem. I don't know that I put that in yet, but I plan on running a 4 link. can buy the welderin kits and theyre not too expensive. that way I can run coils or bags. [;)
 
the motor has to go back, how much depends on how you mount the cab. I found that if I measured from the rear edge of the oval hole on the top of the frame to the center (CENTER!) of the front cab mount it should be about 8 1/2 inches. that SHOULD center the front wheels and let you move the engine back 5 inches from the center of the s10 mounts.

my advice? get the cab in place and the front wheels where you want them, centered, forward of center, rear of center. then take the front fenders back off and put the engine in as far back as it will go. I tucked my V6 right up against the firewall and with the serp system on the vortec 4.3 a rad was still al tight fit. you have two more cylinders haha.

IMG_0142 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
 
My truck is a 39 Ford, but is is pretty much the same size. I centered the front fenders, then put the cab where it matched up to the fenders. As for the 305 Chevy engine, I planted it where I could use the drive shaft I had without having it shortened. I'm cheap like that. It is a little tight up front, but I made it all fit. I have room to move the engine back a couple or so inches, but it is kinda' nice to have the room. I used S10 headers, and the steering shaft goes right through them without a hitch.
 
I'm actually a really big fan of the 4.3 motor. If the V8 is too tight for my liking I may see if I can find one. I may throw the fenders and cab on the frame this weekend, and put the motor in just to see where things need to go.
 
joedoh said:
snopro I dont disagree but 2 inches is a lot haha and I actually like the front wheels slightly back and the rear wheels slightly forward. last 41 I took everyones advice and moved the front forward of center, got a lot of affirmation but I didnt like it.
Click to expand...

2 inches isn't a lot due to the wheels not being centered on these to start with. I can't say I understand wanting the front wheels slightly back and rear wheels slightly forward, that just looks awful to me. If anything I think they should be the opposite way. To each their own, those are just my preferences.
 
joedoh said:
the motor has to go back, how much depends on how you mount the cab. I found that if I measured from the rear edge of the oval hole on the top of the frame to the center (CENTER!) of the front cab mount it should be about 8 1/2 inches. that SHOULD center the front wheels and let you move the engine back 5 inches from the center of the s10 mounts.

my advice? get the cab in place and the front wheels where you want them, centered, forward of center, rear of center. then take the front fenders back off and put the engine in as far back as it will go. I tucked my V6 right up against the firewall and with the serp system on the vortec 4.3 a rad was still al tight fit. you have two more cylinders haha.

IMG_0142 by Joe Doh, on Flickr
Click to expand...

TommyL said:
I'm actually a really big fan of the 4.3 motor. If the V8 is too tight for my liking I may see if I can find one. I may throw the fenders and cab on the frame this weekend, and put the motor in just to see where things need to go.
Click to expand...

We do them a different way. Figure out where your cab and fender assembly needs to be mounted, then you know where the firewall will be. Mount the engine, tranny, get the driveshaft in all before you mount the cab. Then put the cab and fenders over top. It works quite well.

I've got a 455 Buick and had plenty of room for a large rad, fan on the water pump, and an electric pusher. You'll have plenty of room with a SBC, it's slightly smaller than my 455.
 
05snopro440 said:
We do them a different way. Figure out where your cab and fender assembly needs to be mounted, then you know where the firewall will be. Mount the engine, tranny, get the driveshaft in all before you mount the cab. Then put the cab and fenders over top. It works quite well.

I've got a 455 Buick and had plenty of room for a large rad, fan on the water pump, and an electric pusher. You'll have plenty of room with a SBC, it's slightly smaller than my 455.
Click to expand...

thats the same way I do it too, I just said get the cab and fenders mocked up FIRST then install the engine as far back as you can. in fact that is the point I am at on my current truck. reading your build thread you put the rad on the front side of the core support and tilted it to fit, right? two ways to solve the same problem.

with a sbc and a 19x21 rad inside the core support, he will need all the wiggle room he can get. imagine the picture I posted with an extra pair of cylinders, the water pump fan was right up against the rad but I couldnt use it because the blades would have hit the lower hose.

the 4.3 is a great motor in these trucks, given ther size and the weight with an s10 chassis.

05snopro440 said:
2 inches isn't a lot due to the wheels not being centered on these to start with. I can't say I understand wanting the front wheels slightly back and rear wheels slightly forward, that just looks awful to me. If anything I think they should be the opposite way. To each their own, those are just my preferences.
Click to expand...


my last 41 is done like this and if it looks awful to you, I dont mind at all. :) two inches back in the fender would probably look as awful to me, to each their own.
 
TommyL said:
I can't swear to anything because it doesn't have a title.
Click to expand...

Step 1: GET A TITLE. Stop everything right now and secure proper paperwork before you drop another dollar. Lots of real sad folks out there who have spent untold amounts of time and money only to find out they have no way to actually drive it legally...
 
Looks like a good start. I'd have to agree on the title; no time or $$ into it until you know you'll be able to get it legal. A buddy of mine did almost a full resto on an old truck thinking it would be no problem and ended up he could not get one.
 
One problem may be I have no vin number. One of these days I'll get down to the DMV and ask how to get it legal. If it turns out I can't then I guess I've got some cool yard art. And a little practice under my belt.
 
joedoh said:
thats the same way I do it too, I just said get the cab and fenders mocked up FIRST then install the engine as far back as you can. in fact that is the point I am at on my current truck. reading your build thread you put the rad on the front side of the core support and tilted it to fit, right? two ways to solve the same problem.

with a sbc and a 19x21 rad inside the core support, he will need all the wiggle room he can get. imagine the picture I posted with an extra pair of cylinders, the water pump fan was right up against the rad but I couldnt use it because the blades would have hit the lower hose.

the 4.3 is a great motor in these trucks, given ther size and the weight with an s10 chassis.




my last 41 is done like this and if it looks awful to you, I dont mind at all. :) two inches back in the fender would probably look as awful to me, to each their own.
Click to expand...

I didn't say 2 inches back, read it again :) 19x21 isn't all that big. Mine is roughly 19x26 if I remember correctly. Yours is on the back side of the rad support, of course there will not be enough room for 2 more cylinders. More than one way to skin a cat.
 
TommyL said:
One problem may be I have no vin number. One of these days I'll get down to the DMV and ask how to get it legal. If it turns out I can't then I guess I've got some cool yard art. And a little practice under my belt.
Click to expand...
You can get it legal, it just takes some work.


  • Check your state's specialty car/hot rod rules on line.
  • Get the necessary paperwork, and fill it out. Have lots of receipts.
  • Then take the cab, etc., and ORIGINAL frame to the DMV to get it titled. In most cases, they will issue a sticker for the cab. (There may be a number on the frame. Some brands did that others did not.)
  • Then you can put whatever frame you want under it. :D
I didn't do it this way, and now I am nervous about going to get it done. Even though I have been reassured that it is painless.
 
05snopro440 said:
I didn't say 2 inches back, read it again :)
Click to expand...


ok

05snopro440 said:
2 inches isn't a lot due to the wheels not being centered on these to start with.
Click to expand...

I must have misunderstood it the second time too, are you saying spread the 2" extra wheelbase between front and rear?


my rad is mounted inside the core support, not behind it. I thought maybe I didnt say that but my second read through showed I did. the rad is a 3 row, it cools really well, the fan doesnt even come on unless I am in traffic, in fact I thought the fan was broken but the temps were just too low to trip the fan switch.
 
joedoh said:
ok



I must have misunderstood it the second time too, are you saying spread the 2" extra wheelbase between front and rear?


my rad is mounted inside the core support, not behind it. I thought maybe I didnt say that but my second read through showed I did. the rad is a 3 row, it cools really well, the fan doesnt even come on unless I am in traffic, in fact I thought the fan was broken but the temps were just too low to trip the fan switch.
Click to expand...

Ah, many aluminum rads aren't 3 rows on account of having thicker cores than copper-brass. That explains why yours sticks out the back of the rad support so much. The Chevy rad support is also much thinner and different than the GMC support.

Yep, if you have a look at the attached stock 46, the front and rear wheels aren't centered in the arch of the fender. When most people do a frame swap or customization, they try to get them centered. There's most (if not all) of your 2 inches difference in wheelbase if you center the front and then let the rear fall where it wants to, which will be real close to centered.

1946%20chevrolet%20tommie%20jones.jpg
 
After spending a good while on the phone with the DMV, the lady assured me that it could be titled, either by a bonded title, or a builders title. But I will need the motor numbers. Maybe the same number on the frame? Don't know. For sure. I wish I could find a serial number on the cab but I've searched it over and can't find one. I do think that I'll set the cab back on the factory frame for the time being, that way I can load it on to a trailer and take it down for inspection if needed. The lady didn't say anything about one, but just to be safe.
 
old iron is right, the trucks were usually registered on the engine number.


but there is a SERIAL plate on the 41-46 trucks, on the passenger cowl. I called it a VIN tag out of habit, because when the tag office asks for a VIN this is the number I show them.

IMG_0059 by Joe Doh, on Flickr


there isnt a number anywhere else except the motor number behind the distributor, which doesnt match the serial.
 
My truck doesn't have the serial number plate. Once I do have a title for it it will tho. I'll stamp one and pop rivet it on.
 
But out of crazy thing is, I already had sold the frame and motor to a fella accross town. Not thinking obviously.:rolleyes:. Luckily I kept the guys messages, so I shot him a text and asked if I can buy it back, so guess I'll be going to pick it back up tomorrow. Once it's titled if I don't use it I'll probably give it back to him.:D or just hang on to it. Who knows?
 
Ain't much but it's progress

Got the cab sitting on the frame. Got the frame narrow enough that the cab will sit on it. Have a mock-up engine resting on the mock up mounts. Baby steps...
 

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