Satin black body paint, spray or roll?

hotrod magazine did an article thats probably still in the archives on it's website. guy did a bug and a 70 charger with a roller and honestly, the charger done in orange looked GREAT. the catch was it took alot of sanding to get it smooth...

Rustoleum

I just sprayed my 30 chevy 2dr. sedan this weekend with 7777 satin black, I followed the mixing directions on the can it said 15% I was using a new hvlp gravity feed gun I bought at northern tool and it was too thick, I mixed everything in a 1 gal can, I started with 1 qt. of paint 32oz and mixed in 5oz of acitone, about 15% too thick, I dumped it back in the gallon and added 3 more oz. making 8oz or 25% total it sprayed nice and smooth, layed down nice, it did look fuzzy when I was spraying it, but it all layed down smooth, I got 2 good coats out of the total 40 oz of paint, I missed a few areas so I am going to let it sit for a few days, and hit it with steel wool just to give it some stick, tack it down and use the 2nd qt. I bought, get all the missed areas first and try not to miss any more I kept telling myself as I was spraying, its not a P&P car so it don't need to be perfect.

liljgoneman said:

hotrod magazine did an article thats probably still in the archives on it's website. guy did a bug and a 70 charger with a roller and honestly, the charger done in orange looked GREAT. the catch was it took alot of sanding to get it smooth...

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heres that charger your talking about

spray and thin with lacquer thinner. evaporates faster for faster drying time

Wowza, that Chrager looks incredible!

Ok, i'm leaning heavily towards rolling it, I think it will look just fine and I also think that it fits the idea of a rat rod that a guy could have made in his own garage in the 50's. Anyway, what are the opinions on sanding it after it's painted? The threads i've read on here other than mine all say not to sand it because it will make it shiny. Your thoughts?

i TOLD you so!!!

VonHyde said:

heres that charger your talking about

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thanks for coverin up my laziness and huntin that picture down. maybe its cuz i'm partial to mopars but i think that charger looks killer..[cl

When you sand, wet sand the satin black, it dries gray. You can spray satin clear on it and it will turn satin (dark)black again. I did my RPU.

[S Rolling paint on a car...lord help us! Spray the thang!![cl

chuckles said:

When you sand, wet sand the satin black, it dries gray. You can spray satin clear on it and it will turn satin (dark)black again. I did my RPU.

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What grit did you use with the wet sanding? I'm assuming the rattle can Rustoleum satin clear would work well with the 7777? That's starting to sound like a plan!

no, spray clear with a gun, with a rattle can will be damn near impossible to look even but then again spraying is better you wouldnt have to do so much wet sanding. just rent the compressor it will be money worth spent. Work smarter not harder.

haha didnt have to hunt it down very far its in my favorites. hands down would trade my rod project finished or not for a charger with a 440

Ok, so say theoretically I was going to spray it... What are the opinions on enamel vs. laquer?

Why not roll it then "tip" it off with a brush?

rolled my truck this weekend.

my boston approves... lazy sunbathing dog didnt even help
its not perfect but is a work truck and beats the glosssss forest green it was.

I was going to roll mine with Rustoleum Hunter green gloss, (I know). After research I have decided to spray it. I bought a $40 HVLP gun from Summit and a respirator for $30 and am going to teach myself to do it. I found that spraying will be a lot less sanding to make it nice. I want to make it nicer than it is now. I am going to practice first on the inner fenders and firewall. I am also swppimg an Olds 455 in, painted gold to make it look like a 350.

42chevy said:

I was going to roll mine with Rustoleum Hunter green gloss, (I know). After research I have decided to spray it. I bought a $40 HVLP gun from Summit and a respirator for $30 and am going to teach myself to do it. I found that spraying will be a lot less sanding to make it nice. I want to make it nicer than it is now. I am going to practice first on the inner fenders and firewall. I am also swppimg an Olds 455 in, painted gold to make it look like a 350.

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shoot -- if you lived closer id let you practice on my rat

What I found funny was that I went to a car show last Saturday and parked my 27 next to a row of about 5 or 6 very nice 29-32 Fords. Two were a very bright red, one was gloss black, another was copper colored, and one was a House of Colors purple. Super nice rods, all of them. I sat on my lawn chair and listened to the comments people were making as they looked at my satin black rod and so many of them said "Wow, I really like the color on this one! " Some of them even came back and told me how much they liked my car and the satin finish on it..........said it looked like a hot rod to them.

Reason I post this is because so many "experts" look down their noses at any car not shiny, but I get more comments at traffic lights and at gas stops about my non shiny 27 than I ever got with my gloss black 23. I wouldn't paint this car shiny if someone offered me a free $ 10,000 paint job.


Don

donsrods said:

What I found funny was that I went to a car show last Saturday and parked my 27 next to a row of about 5 or 6 very nice 29-32 Fords. Two were a very bright red, one was gloss black, another was copper colored, and one was a House of Colors purple. Super nice rods, all of them. I sat on my lawn chair and listened to the comments people were making as they looked at my satin black rod and so many of them said "Wow, I really like the color on this one! " Some of them even came back and told me how much they liked my car and the satin finish on it..........said it looked like a hot rod to them.

Reason I post this is because so many "experts" look down their noses at any car not shiny, but I get more comments at traffic lights and at gas stops about my non shiny 27 than I ever got with my gloss black 23. I wouldn't paint this car shiny if someone offered me a free $ 10,000 paint job.


Don

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Shiny paint just doesn't fit a 50+ yr old vehicle to me. That's why i'm going sating and why some of the "character dents" and my sweet bullet holes are staying as well, it looks 60 yrs old because it is. And as has been mentioned several times before anyone can have a perfect one, mine has character.

Okay I gotta chime in here. I am not a bodyman-but my buddy and I did the paint and body work on my Super Bee and it just took 4th place in it's class in Detroits autorama (I'm not bragging just trying to make a point) at the other end of the spectrum I just got done rolling an 88 Chevy pick-up. A gallon of rustoleum, a few 6 inch, 1" dia. white foam rollers a few smaller brushes and some tape. Mineral spirits or acetone will work for thinning, but you probably won't need to, try it without first.

We all know it's not the "best" way, but it works I can assure you that. On the plus side, you are not putting it in the air so you aren't getting overspray all over the garage. You can do a little here and a little there, unlike shooting it. And, how else can you paint your car for under $100???

If you really want to do it right, you have to buy decent paint. Now we are talking $100-$150 or as much as you want to spend a gallon. I probably have $300 in Sikkens epoxy primer on my Super Bee, granted I'm an amature and most of it got sanded off and swept away.

Wash the truck, scuff it, blow it off, pre-cleano (wax and degreaser). Prep an easy panel like the hood and have at it, I think you will be surprised at how nice it comes out. However you need to do it inside because of the slow drying time, you need ventilation but not fast moving air, and remember like the other guys said, no UV protection so 10 years outside storage is not going to be kind to it.