1952 F-6 Build

If ya are gonna have something no one else has this is the price ya pay [ddd
Just a walk in the park for ya Torchie

Todays effort....

Pic 1 and 2 shows the difference between the amount of F hood showing on the PS and the DS.
This is due to the fact that the gap between the F hood and the cowl is different on each side.
The only way to fix this is to elongate the hinge mounting holes on the cowl.
To do this the 41 hood as well as the remnants of the F hood have to come off.

Pic 3. Since I have made the long relief cuts in the 41 hood we will need to hold it all together so nothing can flop or bend. A little duct tape to the rescue.

Pic 4. Hood removed and set off to the side.

Pic 5. Inside shot of the bolts that hold the hinge to the cowl. You can see that the stud is all the way forward in the hole.

Pic 6. Hinge off and these are the holes that will have to be modified.
Time to get out the rat tail file.
That's it for now. Thanks for visiting.
Torchie.

Keep at it, you are not far off now!

Hi Torchie, this seems to be one of those challenges that fights back quite a bit, but you are winning each little skirmish.[cl Keep on tinkering.

More from Da Hood...

Pic 1. A Rat tail file for a Rat rod. How old school.[ddd
Pic 2. Mounting holes hogged out.
Pic 3. PS bracket moved forward to open the gap.
Pic 4. New hood to cowl gap on PS.
Pic 5. New gap on DS. These mounting holes had to be elongated the opposite way of the PS.
Pic 6. The distance from the rear edge of the F hood to the rear edge of the 41 hood on the PS.
Pic 7. Same spot on the DS. Look good to me.
So now its just a matter of reattaching the 41 hood to the remanants of the F hood and away we go............
Thanks for looking in.
Torchie.

The gap looks much better now!
I suggest maybe welding a washer on the inside after you get it where you want it, then it cant shift back in the hole =)

Looks like you will be done with that hood real soon, can't wait to see it done!

Dirtyrat said:

The gap looks much better now!
I suggest maybe welding a washer on the inside after you get it where you want it, then it cant shift back in the hole =)

Looks like you will be done with that hood real soon, can't wait to see it done!

Click to expand...

I think that it is probably not this far forward as I did some re-adjustment to it after I put the F hood section on. Plus the stock set up is that the hole is over sized compared to the stud and the hinge is just held in place by the compression of the washers and nut. I will check it by pulling off the inside nut and looking at where the stud falls in the hole.
Most likely the hood will be the last thing welded up DR. Still pondering the use of that new fangled panel glue to hold the whole thing together. That hood is real flimsy and with my eyes the way they are I will have to be in the right frame of mind before I burn any wire on it. [[[[
Torchie.

In my continuing effort to do something everyday....

..here is todays offering.
Been looking at steering wheel options for my custom and am finding that everything I like is just really expensive
So we are falling back on plan B. Using the original 41 car wheel and finding a swankier horn ring and center piece.
So lets look at the wheel.
Pic 1 and 2. Lots of tape and visible cracks in the usual places. Question is what is going on under the tape???

Pic 3. The tape around the spokes was so brittle that it wouldn't peel off. But luckily the tape on the rim did peel off.

Pic 4. Oh no. More tape.:eek Yes there was a 2nd layer of different tape.

Pic 5. Not in to bad of shape actually.[cl. Looks better under the tape than I thought it would.
Seems like everyone has there favorite product to fix cracks in wheels. I have had good luck with JB Weld. Since these cracks are deep i will do the filling in stages and probably V some of them for better adhesion and finishing.
At this time the thought is that the wheel will get painted Ivory.
Thanks for visiting...
Torchie.

I'll be watching your steering wheel fixing closely. I need to do the same to my '52 wheel, its got its fair share of cracks. Good luck.

-Chris

Your sheet metal is looking real nice. [cl

Lets start to fill some cracks.
People use different products to do this as well as there being kits available . I have used JB weld on 5 or 6 wheels and never had a problem with it recracking.
PIc 1. As we can see the wheel isn't in that bad of shape as there are cracks in the usual spots but no big chunks of wheel missing.
Scuffed the wheel down with 150 grit and wiped it clean. You wiull notice the industrial size JB in the background.

Pic 2. Since the cracks go all the way around the rim we are starting our filling on the back side. A few strips of lo-tack tape to keep the JB from flowing all the way thru. You can see some of the thinner cracks as well. These are the ones that I will open up to let the JB penetrate

Pic 3. I really smear this stuff on thick and then using a popsicle stick I work it down into the crack.

Pic 4. After a few minutes you can see The JB settleing into the crack. Even though it is the consistency of tooth paste gravity does pull it down.

Pic 5. Here I have appliued some more to the area. to build it up. JB has a good working time but this was done in a matter of minutes.
I then used a clean stick to dress up the area and remove excess JB.

Pic 6. The area about 3 hours after I finished smoothing it out. JB has partial cured so I can pull the tape. You can see how even after adding more JB it still has settled in the crack. Which is good. You want it down into the crack and around the steel ring.

So now I will let it cure at least 24 hours. In my house where it is warm.And then we will move to the front side.
Thanks for visiting...
Torchie.

2nd post of the day. I guess I made some progress.

Went out in the garage for round 2 tonight.

Pic 1and 2. Nasty looking brake drum. So we put a mic on it and SURPRISE! Lots of meat. My guy said that he didn't think that they had ever been turned.
Rusty but should clean up good.[cl[cl[c

Pic 3. Tried to pound out the shackle bolts. No way baby....Going to take it all to the shop next week and press out everything and turn the drums.

Now on to the hood.
Pic 4 and 5. After making adjustments to the F hood hinges it's time to put the 41 car hood back on.
DS always fit better than the PS and tonight I narrowed it down to the brace for the F hood and hinges. For some reason the PS brace was not bent at the same angle as the DS causing the 41 hood side skirt to hit it and bulge . The fix envolved using the torch to heat the brace and bending it inward.

Pic 6 and 7. Hood gap is now even on both sides and hood once again opens and closes.
Happy with todays progress. Some was little and some was big.
Thanks for stopping by.
Torchie.

Sometimes even a blind squirrel finds an acorn [cl
You've been fightin this so long it decided to just give up
I'm lookin forward to seeing this hood all welded up [ [ [P

One thing about little projects that fight back, is when you do beat them you get all sweaty with satisfaction. You'll be feeling very good about now. I know this because I'm feeling good about it.
Well done Torchie.

Meanwhile. Back at the steering wheel.....

Pic 1 and 2. Back side of wheel today after some sanding. Bear in mind that I'm not trying to fill these cracks all in one pass.

Pic 3. This is the narrow length wise crack that I opened up so the JB would go down into it.

Pic 4. More tape for damming. Just like the back side.

Pic 5 and 6. I did the front side different than the back side. Falling back on my 30 years of food service I made a pastry bag out of parchment paper. Filled it with JB and then proceded to squirt the JB into the cracks. Once they were filled I then spread some more JB on top. I did this to make sure that the cracks were filled all the way down as they were deep.

So as before I will let it start to cure. Wait about 3 hrs and then pull the tape. More sanding tomorrow and then what should be the last coat of JB.
Thanks for looking in...
Torchie.

More of the boring stuff....

But at least I am able to work outside for the first time in 7 months.[cl[cl[cl

Sanded first coat of JB on front and back of wheel. Putting on the 2nd and what should be final coat.
Used a trimmed down body filler speader to apply the last coat.
Thanks.
Torchie.

turned out

looks like it turned out good

Later

Dang! I tune out of the interweb for a couple days and you get everything done!
The wheel is coming out nicely, I see your wheel is as chalky and cracked as the one I pulled out of my truck! The repair is looking great!

I see its still pretty cold up there with your cold weather gear on!

I wish it was all done.....

Dirtyrat said:

Dang! I tune out of the interweb for a couple days and you get everything done!
The wheel is coming out nicely, I see your wheel is as chalky and cracked as the one I pulled out of my truck! The repair is looking great!

I see its still pretty cold up there with your cold weather gear on!

Click to expand...

Actually the wheel is not chalky DR. Just alot of dust from sanding.
But it does have cracks. I think that being all wraped up in tape helped it from deteriorating more than it did.
Once repaired I will seal it up good with some epxoy primer and then hit it with the hi-build and more sanding.
Warmer yesterday. Cold is back today.[S[S
Torchie.

WOW!!!!!!! That is a GREAT idea, I've documented that one in my mental notebook