1956 F100 Angry Bird

I don't think enough attention is given to the comfort part. Keep up the great work.

Thanks guys - I was ready to post a yawn sticker on here this morning, as the comfort items didn't seem to get as much discussion as the hood mutilation. In fact, I didn't even need to actually DO anything to generate interest in that topic. So here we go again...

I started with a number of photocopies of my truck from different angles and blacked out a potential opening with a sharpie. It started with a small opening on top like the plexi-glass samples, and evolved to the favorite:

Moving the pattern from a concept on paper to the actual hood proved to be more art than science. I traced the first idea, of the smaller opening, just to make sure I really didn't like it. I then moved the lines out board and added more curves to compliment the curviness in the truck. You can see the two outline ideas on the attached pic.

I liked the larger swoopy one better, and kept tweaking the lines over a series of three evenings to create a shape I really liked. I outlined a pattern on one side to create a mirror image on the opposite side of the hood.

Ready to cut, but I let it rest another night before wielding the knife.

So the deed was done after the procrastination and second guessing myself. So far all that have seen it like it better than the bare bones open look. I am going to do some double paneling on the inside to give a smooth transition into the engine bay.

The inner hood panel cutout was flawless and will be adapted for a full hood appearance. I will use a captured flange in the back of it and some hood hold down pins in the front. Maybe some flush push button latches. I think I will paint it flat black as that faux rust looks too much like a spotted cow hide.

So I still wasn't convinced the first night I cut it. But it is growing on me. I think it does look better if I am insisting on the open look, but with the inside panel mounted, I can get the full hood option as well.


John L.

That does look good. [cl

I do like it, how are you going to form the panel that goes in it?

ok, I really like your truck and what you have done with it...up to the point of cutting the hood open. Just my $.02 but it was better with a closed hood. Other wise it is kick azz! [P

I really never ran it with a hood, but at least this way, with the middle insert, it can live in both worlds.

What surprised me is how honkin' tall these hoods are. I probably chopped it down 3-4" and it still leaves 2" blocking the street view. No wonder pancaking these things is so popular.

I am curious what kind of aerodynamics it might create (or uncreate). Can't be worse than the flat firewall. Once I get it anchored, I will tape some streamers to the opening and see what the air flow is doing.

John L.

I like it.

Go with your gut.

Innovation comes from creative thinking. Creative thinking comes from constantly examining commonplace things and ideas with new eyes.

Can't believe you went for it!!!!

The hod cut out works very well... good job!

Dirtyrat said:

I do like it, how are you going to form the panel that goes in it?

Click to expand...

I will have to shape and curve sheetmetal panels for the larger runs, with a large miter joint in the corners. I don't have an english wheel, which would make some interesting curves, but our shop has some rolling capability, so I can get some curvature to follow the hood lines.

I will extend the panels down to the fender wells to give it a smooth transition into the engine bay. I am not planning on hinging it, as it is easy to remove by grabbing the braces. Besides, pretty much everything can be accessed through the opening.

In the back I will use a shallow channel to create a shelf that the hood closure panel can rest on, or slip into with a flange.

Well that's the plan anyway. Reality may change my course, especially as I noted previously, the hood is crooked to start with, or perhaps my fenders don't perfectly align, so I have that to deal with first.

May lend itself to a good winter project...

Oh, I thought you were going to use plexiglass or lexan for that piece.

So now I guess I am perplexed as to why you would cut the hood only to put a piece back in?

Well, I have liked running without a hood, but so much of the shape of the truck is lost without that bulbous nose in place. So I guess my objective was to regain some of that body outline, without closing the engine bay.

Running without the hood though does create some issues with weather as well as aerodynamics when doing longer runs. To have an easily removable cap to pop in and out solves that.

As a side benefit, the opening is far more user friendly when working inside the engine bay. Everything remains accessible and the truck sits so much lower than stock that it ends up being easier than a stock truck with a hood.

And because I want to show off the engine without reflections from the plexiglass surface...

jclars said:

Well, I have liked running without a hood, but so much of the shape of the truck is lost without that bulbous nose in place. So I guess my objective was to regain some of that body outline, without closing the engine bay.

Running without the hood though does create some issues with weather as well as aerodynamics when doing longer runs. To have an easily removable cap to pop in and out solves that.

As a side benefit, the opening is far more user friendly when working inside the engine bay. Everything remains accessible and the truck sits so much lower than stock that it ends up being easier than a stock truck with a hood.

And because I want to show off the engine without reflections from the plexiglass surface...

Click to expand...

I'm glad it's working out for you! My 64 C-10 is lowered and I constantly hit my head on the latch or rim of the hood when I'm working under it and no hood would make things easier for sure!

post up some more pics![cl

New fuel inlet and door

So, when I redid the frame this past year, I utilized a 53-55 F100 fuel tank, located on the running board brackets under the drivers side. I did not want to use the original 56 seat back location because it burned up precious leg room. I had already used the passenger side running board brackets to house my "mechanical room" (air ride system), with access through what had been the original battery location below the floor.

I want a trailer hitch and spare tire located at the rear frame, but I tried to utilize the rear fender fuel inlet from the previous owner. Trouble was, there was a lot of splash back with such a long tube to the front that it would take 15 minutes to put just 8 gallons in.

Enough of that. I would locate the fuel inlet back where the 53-55 had it. Some ideas were just good from the start. Got the common universal type fuel inlet and door kit and the directions were pretty lame. I took a lot of pics to document the install and potentially help other novices with a set of pictoral directions.

In the end, if you can find a similar curve on a stock car at a junkyard, I would recommend that approach for part selection rather than this kit. This kit had the right curve for my location, but the door is too flimsy. I may have to double wall it.

Still quite pleased with the look and convenient location.

John L.

The rest of the pics...

Very slick!

[P[P[P

DANG!... that turned out sweet, excellent fab work and blending that paint back in... looks GREAT!

Well, painting a house for the summer project pretty much puts rat rod improvements on hold! And now a horse stall remodel looms.

So a short amount of time to work on my hood with the hope of making the truck weather resistant for a little winter driving. And to make it legal> I was stopped for another radar detected infraction, and while that ended up as a warning, the officer also warned me about illegally running without a hood. We then had a nice discussion about his hot rod projects.

Does anyone have confirmation of the legality issue involved in running without a hood?

Anyway, that's a secondary issue. My primary issue for this post is to get advice from the experts on here about reinforcing the hood to retain its shape so I can hinge the panel and have it fit the hole precisely. I found that the inherent stress in the hood made it spring out of square when I cut the hole. I have now tacked it back together and want to add internal bracing before cutting it loose again. It took quite a bit of prying and grunting to get the cutout to match-up again, so I want to make sure it is well braced.

I am thinking a perimeter flange on both sides of the cut line and cross bracing running perpendicular with the flange.

What are some recommendations from the fabricators/engineers out there?

Sounds like you are on the right track with the perimeter bracing... probably would be a good idea to get some 3/8 or 1/4 rod to roll up from the corners to the center perimeter brace to help hold the contours.