1946 Oldsmobile 78 Reserection {my way}

That looks really killer, great work!

-Chris

I was referring to the cuts in the center of the roof from your post #122. The back end looks good - I'm really surprised the lines came together well at both roof cuts.

Thank you Sam a lot of my problems were solved by studing you're thread.

The windows on the drivers side lined up nicely.

Makin' it look easy Carnut! [

i dont know how I have missed this thread.. i know it has been said before but..fantastic work.. !

Here is the drip rail and the relief cuts on the window.

drivers side drip rail

Finally almost done with the rail still have the passenger left. I am just adding weld and filing it to shape. I must have at least 80 hours on this side.

GREAT work, all that metal work is no joke!

................................

passenger aide

Just started on the passenger side.

body solder

Back on the olds again time for lead.

I love lead. I dunno why people think plastic filler is easier. Lead seems easier (with my limited experience with it) and it's way cooler!

Are you using a kit?
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

body solder

Here is more pics of the back roof.

The Olds is looking great. Love the lead work.

jmlcolorado said:

I love lead. I dunno why people think plastic filler is easier. Lead seems easier (with my limited experience with it) and it's way cooler!

Are you using a kit?
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out!

Click to expand...

My plan for my project was to use lead. I have experience using it but that was many years ago.
Once I priced it out I decided that on my budget Rage filler was a wiser choice money wise.
Unfortunately for me it had nothing to do with hard vs easy. It was strictly the $$$$$$.
Maybe on the next one......
Torchie.

body solder

I did not use a kit that stuff is 20$ a pound I just went to a scrap yard and bought 1 pound weights that are used for a xray vest and some tin. I melted in a dutch oven 7 pounds of lead with 3 pounds of tin 70 30 I used a Coleman camping stove. And pored in my angle iron forms. I spent around 100 dollars and have about 60 pounds of sticks I bought tinning butter paddles and a file from Eastwood and I use motor oil instead of beez wax.

46carnut said:

I did not use a kit that stuff is 20$ a pound I just went to a scrap yard and bought 1 pound weights that are used for a xray vest and some tin. I melted in a dutch oven 7 pounds of lead with 3 pounds of tin 70 30 I used a Coleman camping stove. And pored in my angle iron forms. I spent around 100 dollars and have about 60 pounds of sticks I bought tinning butter paddles and a file from Eastwood and I use motor oil instead of beez wax.

Click to expand...

Very creative and cost effective way to make your own body solder. I wish we had yards like that around here.
We always used motor oil back when I learned as well.
The guy that taught me also had a "Mush pot" that we would but the fillings back into and melt. Then he would spread the "Mush" on the shallow dents with a paddle while hitting it with the torch.
Torchie

46 roof

I am trying to get this roof clean of rust it is a slow process I I am using chemicals by por-15 and rust bullet

body solder on the roof

Here is 3 solid days on the roof half way there.

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