1930 Ford Woodie

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I agree with you on the 2x4 instead. I am thinking, since this is a woodie, I might run the frame long and do a leaf spring rear. I am going to go thru the other build threads and get a good plan together, since this a custom built frame at this point. This is a great forum to build this in.

Good plan!

Sometimes it's WAY easier to start fresh then it is to fix someone else's "work".
 
image.jpg
After looking at lots of pics and looking at my budget, I have decided to fix the old frame. The frame is not rusty it's just been modified. I disassembled most all the junk and squared the frame. It was perfect. I welded the front cross member. I am going to box the frame after I see if the vega box works for me and the front end. The four link drops look good welded nice. I cleaned up the front cross member so it clears my pullys. I am leaving the shock supports for now. I am sure the mid cross member will be removed but not right now. If at some point this ends up a poor choice I will have at least tried to salvage the original frame. I am not the guy with a bank roll and incredible build skills. I am just a guy who has a great passion for the old cars and parts. Wether it's old, rusty or scrap its not trash unless it has no integrity. Sorry kind of went on a tangent
 
image.jpg
I don't have any original axles. I was measuring my old 40 Chevy truck axle and it is 50 inches from king pin to king pin centers. Same as ford. I have a leaf spring from the same truck. This is not a stock build and it seams like I can make the four link bars to mount it. I can buy disc brake spindles to fit I think. Anyone ever seen this done??
 
It will work

I have used econoline axles and also 1960`s chevy G10 axles.
They have 2 leaf spring perches just like yours.
Just make a strong bracket,bolt it on leaf spring mounts and hook up 4 link.
Should be just fine.:)
 
I have used econoline axles and also 1960`s chevy G10 axles.
They have 2 leaf spring perches just like yours.
Just make a strong bracket,bolt it on leaf spring mounts and hook up 4 link.
Should be just fine.:)

Thanks, I will. I am going to measure the ends tomorrow to see what kind of hubs I can get.
 
Today worked on the frame from front to the A pillar. Cleaned up the frame found two different vin numbers and both are being used by someone else in California. How random is that?
I found out that this car was built in July of 1931. Funny how they built the same car in the same model year. I will have to get a new vin. Cleaned up the 40 Chevy truck axle so I can start figuring out how to attach 4 bars to it. It 50 1/4 to the centers of the king pins and 2 1/8 wide.
The fenders on a stock model a are 66 inches wide from outside edge to outside edge. The stock axle spindles were 6 1/2 to the ends. That means I will be 63 wide. So they will fit under about 1 1/2 on each side. I am debating this axle and its complicated attacents and I would prefer to be a few inches narrower.
Let me know your thoughts
 
weld quality ?

I posted this after reading just the first page OOPS !!
I always question the quality of someone else's welds, A few years ago I stopped by a friends house and his 2 sons had traded for a T bucket project some kids has started in the high school shop . The frame was a little tweeked and I said I could fix it with a chain and my hi lift jeep jack. It didn't take much pressure and the welds broke. That looks like a Vega steering box mount. That is an ugly cutout on the frame by the Small block Ford motor mounts. and a worse patch job. If the frame is not cancered, thin spots I would have to consider the work to strip it, patch it, check for cracks, (front and rear crosmembers ) VS buying some 2 X 3 .188 tube and using the old frame for a pattern, It depends on if you want to run fenders, A woody custom body you could build your own ?
 
Last edited:
Vin numbers

Ford use the engine numbers for titles on model T's and model A's. Some one could have the engine that came with the frame or just looked up the numbers used for a 31.
I have the title for My A roadster, My brother had it for about 15 years and his brother in law for 15 years Prior. I got a notice from the DMV that some one was trying to restore an A pickup and his engine number matched My title. I talked to the DMV inspector and he had inspected the restorer's truck and the number matched. Since MY A had the V 8 swap and not an original engine I agreed to have an Assigned Identification Number. I haven't had the body off My roadster to check to see if it has a frame number, On the other 3 model A frames that I have , only one has a frame number.
 
Thanks for the info. Update pics are here.001.jpg

002.jpg
I was going to grind the big plate on the outside off but it wont show and its a good place to put the new vin.
I cut through the top of the frame and slid a peice of 3/16 tube steel inside. The frame did not bend in this location but it I feel more confident about the structure. I am going to box the frame all the way as soon as I get my steering box figured out. I can make motor mounts as soon as the box is in place. The other thing is the steering itself and the axle. I really need to think this out. Stock is one thing and modified stock is another but a one off with mix matched parts and fabrication, that is my definition of a ratrod.
Thanks for watching out
 
Been a while since I worked on this project. Other projects have gotten finished and now back to work. Today I dragged it back into the shop. I gave the frame a good hard look and as suggested I am building a new frame out of 2x4. I cut the shock mounts off since they were cut with a torch on the bottom. I am going to z the front horns off and tapper the 2x4 to match. I managed to acquire a ford drop axle and spring. Thanks for all the advise about the frame
 
I posted this after reading just the first page OOPS !!
I always question the quality of someone else's welds, A few years ago I stopped by a friends house and his 2 sons had traded for a T bucket project some kids has started in the high school shop . The frame was a little tweeked and I said I could fix it with a chain and my hi lift jeep jack. It didn't take much pressure and the welds broke. That looks like a Vega steering box mount. That is an ugly cutout on the frame by the Small block Ford motor mounts. and a worse patch job. If the frame is not cancered, thin spots I would have to consider the work to strip it, patch it, check for cracks, (front and rear crosmembers ) VS buying some 2 X 3 .188 tube and using the old frame for a pattern, It depends on if you want to run fenders, A woody custom body you could build your own ?

I thought about this for a while and there is no question it has to be safe and I don't trust anything I see on this frame
 
Bought 2x4 1/4 for the frame rails today. Cut the horns and cross member off. Got one side tack weldedframe 1.jpg

frame cut.jpg
 
Thanks Kenny. There is a lot of work to go but its going to be really cool.
Brakes are kind of old hotrod style but that is how I am trying to build it.
Trying to find some 35 ford wire wheels or 40 Ford steels. I want to go a bias ply and only be 22 inches tall.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top