53 Chevy PU onto a S-10 frame

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Yup, another one. Don't hate me.
This has been kind of a long term project taking a back seat to others. But, now I'm sort of on a roll. So over the next couple days I'll try to get this post up to date on what's been done so far.
The 53 when I bought it....

The S-10 longbed standard cab donor for the frame only....

The S-10 4x4 donor for the rearend....

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

off with the cab....

out with the 4x4 rearend....

stripped and ready for pressure cleaning and paint....

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Lifting the cab off the 53. I had seen where others had built a wood lifting device and it worked well for them. But I really wanted to leave the doors attached and the wood lift just didn't work for me. Just too much weight up front because of not being able to get the frame far enough forward because of the vent windows. I tried it first with the doors closed (which I didn't get a picture of) and even with the doors open so I could slide the frame forward more, but....

So, I came up with an idea that worked real well for me. I used ratchet straps hooked to two chain links attached to the under-dash mounting bolts on each side....

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Going on the frame....

On. Now to figure out if it's in the right place....

I'm kinda going a different route as most with how far off the frame I'm mounting it. I know the AD-engineering and EZ kits have the body sitting about 5" off the frame. But, to cut costs on drop spindles, lowering blocks, etc I'm lowering my body more. I don't mind having to make a trans hump or even possibly a driveshaft tunnel if it saves a few bucks. The front cab mounts are sitting on a 2x4 wood and the rear cab mount "c" channel is sitting on a 2x4 with a piece of 1/2" wood.

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Test fit of hood and fenders to check alignment....

62ChevyII · Jan 26, 2011

Nice job so far. I like your solution to lift the cab with the doors on. I am getting ready to do another one of these swaps myself here soon. The first one I did I put the cab down on a couple 2x4s stacked on the frame which did require a trans tunnel. It put the truck pretty low without blocks. My build is here if you are interested:http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=16296

Here's how the truck ended up for ride height:

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

62ChevyII said:
My build is here if you are interested:http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=16296

I'm very familiar with your build. I've got it saved in my favorites. [dr Probably my favorite AD/S-10 build.
I really liked how you used the S-10 bed floor. Wish I would have seen it before I trashed mine.

AEROCOLOR · Jan 26, 2011

Good start.
I`m assuming the bed floor will be raised to accomodate the "channeling" of the body over the frame? No more room for a wood floor in the original height position with the mounts installed so low.Tailgate will have about six " of ledge showing in the open position.

The trans tunnel isn`t the only thing that changes when you lower the cab. The radiator support has to mount the radiator higher to clear the frame horns.(Can`t cut them off further than the steering box-means no mechanical fan), the brake booster moves up also to clear the valve cover and the driveshaft gets closer to the rear edge of the cab.

Dropped spindles and lowering blocks get a lot cheaper than all of the headaches associated with chanelling sometimes.

Just saying before you weld check all the other clearances needing to be dealt with. Ask me how I know...

Bill

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Sweet truck AEROCOLOR, I've got the bed mounted. Just haven't posted the pics yet. I haven't measured the bed but I'd say it's probably about 6" of depth loss, but no more though.
From day-one I kinda figured the radiator would be one of the bigger challenges. But it looks like I'll have room for one of Speedway Motors Universal Radiators in 19 x 22. It should fit right above the steering box.
One reason I don't mind the channeling so much is the fact that my floors are completely shot anyway. [

Thanks for stopping by. Stick around, I'm sure I'll have questions for ya later. [S

62ChevyII · Jan 26, 2011

Hey I found a better radiator option you might consider. Aerocolor used an early Mustang radiator in his. I was poking around on eBay the other day and ran across this one that will fit much easier than the 22x19 Speedway one and it has automatic trans cooler built in to boot. This one has the lower outlet on the P side like we need on a Chevy... I think this is what I am gonna use:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170473679140&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Wow, thanks ChevyII. The price is right with free shipping too. I was gonna order the Speedway one this morning and I decided to hold off. Sure glad I did. Thanks again. I'm just ordering what I really need right now because I've got all my play money tied up in a 70 Mach I that my brother and I are restoring to sell on eBay this spring. Here's the build thread for anyone interested in old Mustangs.

AEROCOLOR · Jan 26, 2011

I also discovered that if you use a `65 Mustang radiator the outlet is already on the passenger side but it can be moved over about 1" for hose clearance.
Unfortunately only available in two row if that would work.
On my first swap I fabbed a lower rad baffle to force the air up and thru the radiator under the bumper/grill. Helped a lot. The radiator did stick up on my first one about 2 inches above the rad support.

Bill

AEROCOLOR · Jan 26, 2011

another set of pics

ZippyDoDog · Jan 26, 2011

Thanks guys. You have no idea how much that helps.

My front cab mounts....

And I got the bed mounted about a week ago....

front bed mounts....

rear bed mounts....

The front & rear 1x1's and the frame kick up are all level so that I can throw in some wood for the floor.
In these pics the running boards were just propped up for alignment purposes but they're both mounted as of a couple days ago. I'll get some pics of the mounts tomorrow.

deerchooper · Jan 26, 2011

looks good man.

do you think you might need a little x bracing on that front bed mount so you dont get any side to side movement?

ZippyDoDog · Feb 3, 2011

Thanks deerchooper. I did look into the side bracing but it's plenty strong enough side-to-side.

My original plan was to use the S-10 steering column, but after getting it clamped in position I just didn't like the way it fit. For one thing, it sits a little high and too far from the dash. On the stock 53, the steering wheel is 12.25" from dash clamp to the edge of the steering wheel. The S-10 is about 14"....

I could have trimmed the floor mount off the column, but that puts the DD shaft a little low to line up with the box. Plus, I really wasn't crazy about using the column mounted wiper switch anyway.
So, I bit the bullet and ordered a new 34" column from Speedway. Looks like it's gonna be a perfect fit. Here it is mocked up....

hotwrench4hire · Feb 3, 2011

looks great, but why the 4x4 rear end?

ZippyDoDog · Feb 3, 2011

hotwrench4hire said:
looks great, but why the 4x4 rear end?

They're a couple inches wider but still have the saddles in the right place to just bolt onto the 2wd springs. The 2wd S-10 are a lot narrower than the 53's.

earthman · Feb 3, 2011

Excellent thread. Thanks

ZippyDoDog · Feb 5, 2011

Column mounted. Now to work on the dd shaft.

53 Chevy PU onto a S-10 frame

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