MACKAZs 22 Buick model 45 Rat

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MACKAZ

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
285
Location
Whangarei, North Island, New Zealand
This is mine and my Dads first build.
We are in New Zealand so prices/parts/engine might seem a little weird....
Bought a 1922 Buick model 45 cowl for $150, its in pretty good nick for its age
103wxs9.jpg

Then got a chassis out of one of these for $90 (1984 mitsi L200 sport)
4jmlcp.jpg

Cost $140 to redo the lower inner, radius rod, sway bar and sway bar link bushes. Found some shorter springs at the junkyard...freebie
Rolling stock are standard Mitsi L200 4wd rims painted gloss red with 225/75/15s on the rear and 185/60/15 fronts.
No V8 motorvating this......
29kx2fb.jpg

Mighty 3.3 and trimatic cost $240out of a 79 VB Holden Commodore, (I thought I was a Ford guy WTF????) Good ol TradeMe (similar to craigslist I suppose)
While Picking the motor and box up from Auckland the guy produced an ultra rare Lynx 186 manifold complete with 2 matching original 2" SU cards and brand new filters (surface rust of course....)......Best score so far....$150!!!!!! Will take a pic soon.
Reason for the six is its different, cheap to run and cost knaff all. And with a V8 in a 109" wheelbase rod it would look kinda stupid
Headers and EH 179 (GM Holden model) sump and pickup to make a rear bulge pan.... $5

Its a big project........

A few random pics of my pile of bits
Chassis front
w97dbp.jpg

Diff
124v6t4.jpg

Carbs and Manifold
25ur4nm.jpg

Grille surround
1q6a2h.jpg

Quick mock up
1zna6io.jpg


phone battery died prior to photo of tacked together widened cowl. Pretty nerve wracking taking a zipdisc to an 89yr old part, did NOT want to stuff it up.

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Engine in its approximate place,

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Sorry might not make much sense, can all be found on here
http://oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=26763, I just cut and pasted bits haha.

This is where we're at, cowls welded back together, 5 inches wider than standard, engines got a pitted chrome rocker cover on it. New Zealand rules are strict as hell but it will be a fully registered and roadworthy vehicle when finished, wont be as awesome as your guys stuff...
need to figure body height, seating etc first to decide its final position, also (Ford) Falcon diff, have some 15x8or9" steels for rear standard 15x6" up front, gloss red of course.
Any comments or criticsm welcome, I know I know IFS.....
 
Everythings a hassle!!!

NZ rules for car builders are super strict. Predominantly its only T buckets, glass coupes and lotus type cars that are built here. Tourers of any description are few and far between. You buy a book that cost $250 and go from there. Seating and seatbelts tend to be the biggest hurdle. There is a certification process that all parts on vehicle are/have to be identified whether they are a stock part, modified part, or custom made part. Then registration VIN process and wof (warrant of Fitness) basically a safety/roadworthiness test. Then its CCCRRRRUUUIIIISSSSEEE...
 
I like it! You are using what you have, the heart of hotrodding. Keep us posted. As for the V8 I love them but different is good too.

What 42 said...using what you got...I like it! I really like that intake too!

Who'd a thunk I had a "Mighty 3.3 of a 79 VB Holden Commodore" in my 67 Nova:confused:

67engine1.jpg


67engine2.jpg
 
Ha yes quite remarkable how a 202 looks like a Chevy six. Nothing interchanges whatsoever though. The Holden six history is interesting, starting off in the late 40s (132ci) based off a Buick engine. hit it up on wikipedia, quite a good read. Certainly not a balltearing powerhouse though.
 
highly probable. They came as standard equipment on 99.9% of European trash that was built between 1950-1980. They are a terrible carb that has no accelerator pump, and only use as much petrol as the engine "asks" for. But if you can mount a whole lot of them together a gain of exactly .765 of a horsepower can be expected...... in other words only good for looks....
 
Ha yes quite remarkable how a 202 looks like a Chevy six. Nothing interchanges whatsoever though. The Holden six history is interesting, starting off in the late 40s (132ci) based off a Buick engine. hit it up on wikipedia, quite a good read. Certainly not a balltearing powerhouse though.

Well I guess I learned something today...I looked a little closer and it looks like the distributor is a little further forward on yours then my old 6 popper. They sure do look the same at first quick look though. As far as the "balltearing powerhouse" There was a Chevy 6 at the local race track that use to beat the pants off the V8's.....as long as he didn't break a transmission or rearend (or rip the driveshaft out first)
 
I dont half doubt it, friend of mine had a 230(?)ci Chevy 6 in his car and yes it went better than some of the v8s too. Ideally I wanted to use a pre crossflow 221-250 Ford but nothing came along cheap enough so this suffices.
 
Last night went around and did some more filling welds on the cowl. This car is going to have no bog (bondo in your speak) and is not going to be perfect, as is the way of the Rat Rod culture. Also removed the front cab mounts. Intend to make some fake chassis horns at the front..
Priced the pipe to make the skeleton for the body, $7.75 a metre, pretty cheap
Anyway PICTURES.....
2yp13k6.jpg


Prior to grinding

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After grinding, sorry crap pic

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Firewall

1zgsrqe.jpg


On the chassis

2r3cnqp.jpg


Front view, body curves out wider still (probably another 75-100mm each side)

dgq6hi.jpg


Rat chrome, oh yeah , thats patina right there

2rpd9pd.jpg


Removed front cab mount, hideous...

sytso0.jpg


After a bit of cleaning up.[/quote]
 
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Last nights effort consisted of a lot of thinking and brainstorming. have decided against changing the diff, instead going to go to a 750/15 truck tyre on the rear to lift the gearing to about what the standard Holden ratio of 3.55 is. Will just 4 link it and use adjustable coil overs left over from the stockcar conversion. And have changed back to 6 stud rims on the front. Having decided on that focus was moved to engine mounts and gearbox crossmember. Moved engine rearward another inch and now it doesnt foul around the idler arm, centred the motor and made a template out of cardboard. believe it or not both mounts ended up being identical, apart fron right on which needs a pipe put in so a bolt for the steering box can be accessed. mounts will be made out of 75 and 50mm x3mm flat bar. With any luck there will be some at Dads work.
Driveshaft is 2 piece, rear half original and front half about 6 inches long. That is going to the engineer to be welded.
 

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