8literbeater
Well-known member
Here goes nothin. This is my '59 Chevy that I've been building slowly since I was 17. It's had 3 different front axles, 5 different rear axles, 5 different transmissions, 4 different engines, 2 transfer cases, and 3 beds on it since I started. I've built the steering a couple of different ways, but I finally got this one finished last year when I finished the Dana 60 installation.
The springs are 73-87 Chevy 4 inch lift springs that I built brackets and shackles for, there are no blocks.
The rearend is a 14 bolt full floater with a Detroit locker. The front and rear axles came off of an '86 1 ton. I converted the rear to disc brakes. It runs 3/4 ton front discs and calipers on the rear.
I made all of the steering rods out of 1 7/16" .320" wall DOM tubing, and 3/4" cold rolled plate. Of course there's no bumpsteer, and I can spin the steering wheel with one finger under ANY conditions. It tracks perfectly down the road at any speed. I'll get to the speed part in the next post.
I tapped into the steering box for hydraulic pressure to the steering cylinder.
I made the front driveshaft in January, and yes it's square tubing. I had the yokes available on a shaft I wasn't using, and having a "proper" shaft made was looking to be in the 500 dollar range. That's ridiculous. So I spent about 30 dollars on tubing and made my own. It works great.
It's a divorced transfer case, and the shaft in between is only 7.5 inches long if I remember right. It's a special build and cost $250 back in about 2004.
This picture makes me think of something else; I bought these tires new, and had them balanced, to zero balance. Big bias ply tires can ride smoothly down the highway without bouncing, if you can find someone worth their salt, that's willing to put the effort into balancing them. These are 38/12.5/16. Aside from the balance, these tires do flat-spot when it's parked, and they bounce around until they warm up and round out again.
Yup, that's a hydroboost under the cab. I have the original pedals through the floor. The original frame too, actually. The fuel tank is in the bed, so the fuel filter and fuel pump are there on the frame. It sorta makes me want to get around to building those driveshaft hoops that I've been thinking about for years.
The springs are 73-87 Chevy 4 inch lift springs that I built brackets and shackles for, there are no blocks.
The rearend is a 14 bolt full floater with a Detroit locker. The front and rear axles came off of an '86 1 ton. I converted the rear to disc brakes. It runs 3/4 ton front discs and calipers on the rear.
I made all of the steering rods out of 1 7/16" .320" wall DOM tubing, and 3/4" cold rolled plate. Of course there's no bumpsteer, and I can spin the steering wheel with one finger under ANY conditions. It tracks perfectly down the road at any speed. I'll get to the speed part in the next post.
I tapped into the steering box for hydraulic pressure to the steering cylinder.
I made the front driveshaft in January, and yes it's square tubing. I had the yokes available on a shaft I wasn't using, and having a "proper" shaft made was looking to be in the 500 dollar range. That's ridiculous. So I spent about 30 dollars on tubing and made my own. It works great.
It's a divorced transfer case, and the shaft in between is only 7.5 inches long if I remember right. It's a special build and cost $250 back in about 2004.
This picture makes me think of something else; I bought these tires new, and had them balanced, to zero balance. Big bias ply tires can ride smoothly down the highway without bouncing, if you can find someone worth their salt, that's willing to put the effort into balancing them. These are 38/12.5/16. Aside from the balance, these tires do flat-spot when it's parked, and they bounce around until they warm up and round out again.
Yup, that's a hydroboost under the cab. I have the original pedals through the floor. The original frame too, actually. The fuel tank is in the bed, so the fuel filter and fuel pump are there on the frame. It sorta makes me want to get around to building those driveshaft hoops that I've been thinking about for years.
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It's fun to run off and leave the newer cars when they hit their speed governor. Since I put the bias ply Swampers on it, I have kept to a more conservative 100-105 top speed. 
