'58 Chevy 1/2 ton

It would be easy to say I've been working on this '58 for a few years, but the truth of the matter is that it's one of those projects that just doesn't go away.


I've owned it since Feb 16th 2002. It's been on the road in a few different variations since then

but it has always been used as a real truck; you know, hauling friends stuff around, yard work, going on building-supply runs, generally earning its keep.


If there's a down side, it's that I don't enjoy it enough. It sits too much. The dump bed with all it's hydraulics is heavy enough that even when it's empty it's like driving a 3/4 or 1-ton with a full load. That's OK for short work trips and such, but I'd like to drive it more so I'm making some more modifications... and that's where we'll pick up (pun intended) with this thread.

Please understand this one still gets worked on, but mostly when there's downtime everywhere else. Updates will most likely be a little slower than on my main project, the '36 Chevy Sedan. I just wanted to share what else I'm doing.

Sooooo.... I cut the dump-bed free (that I worked so hard to install some years ago) and drove it down into the garage.

Yes, it's a little crowded but it fit

There's all of < 6" clearance front and rear so getting from one side to the other requires going over.

You'll undoubtedly notice a couple of cut-outs in the top of the rear section of the frame. The old dump bed bearing plates were there and I had to cut them free. I'll fill in those gaps when I'm done shortening the frame.

plan

so what is the plans[S

Later

I'm working on getting everything aligned in the first couple of images, but shortening the frame required bringing the gas tank forward under the cab step. The cab corner is going to need some love too.

I cut out the interfering metal and made a simple box in the step. I know I could've gone with a rear, between-the-rails tank, but I'm doing this using mostly parts in stock to minimize the cash outlay and maximize the fun.

I also got around to filling in those rear cutouts from the dump bed bearing plates.

I shortened it to fit a 73-87 model year bed because.... I have one. It is longer than the beds used in '58 so my wheelbase is proportionately longer. My later model bed will also take some slight modification along the sides to better match the cab profile but I'm ready for that when I get around to it.

Right now it's still a cab and chassis:

This link will take you to my page where you can play a video of the shortening process:

Any tool can be the right tool...Lol now you just need to drop the rear 3" and it will be good. [P

Always liked that this truck looked like a bone stock grain hauler with a chopped top. I picture an old guy in overalls pulling into the farm supply and someone asking about the chopped top and he says "Huh, chopped top? I dunno, that's the way I bought it"

I agree on using it more and I'm sure I'll like it in it's new life too.

[P[P[P

It would have been really hard for me to chop that bed off..... but I understand as well.

I wholeheartedly agree with all the replies about the original bed. I originally built it with the exact "chopped grain-hauler" look SnakeFarm mentioned and when I had it out would get looks of disbelief even from car guys,
"Is that chopped?"
"Yep. Sure is."

It's sad how much it sat. There were times during the course of months that I'd go out to start it just to run it. It seems anything that sits here goes under the knife... (like my boys wanting a more powerful gocart):




and so it is again with the '58:



Have I mentioned my chopped windshield catching a baseball?


This is going to take a little love... or how did they used to say it in the magazines? Oh yeah, "massaging":

But David and I wanted to get it running better first. Like I said, it's been a while.


There's a plate for the choke heat riser that picks-up heat from the exhaust. It had been leaking pretty badly (think: loud exhaust leak) from a broken bolt. Loud exhaust is OK, but not when it sounds like garbage.



Trying to remove it resulted in a broken (hardened) easy-out and some subsequent dulled bits. Eventually we were able to drill and tap it for a replacement.


And then reinstalled the freshly cleaned four-barrel with a well-deserved new air cleaner assembly.

Since I hadn't yet bled the brakes from removing the length of line when I shortened the frame, that was next. He had been on me for two days to get to it.




But an uncooperative bleeder screw resulted in having to pull the drum. It's so tight in the garage right now that we didn't even have room to pull the axle from the tube, so we just made it work.


Finally! We can start. What did any of that have to do with getting to cutting? Not much beyond motivation. It's so much more fun working on something that runs right and you know you'll be able to drive it out.



and a little more:



Did I mention it's tight in here?



The other side:


And that's where I left off for the night.

jfg455 said:

Any tool can be the right tool...Lol now you just need to drop the rear 3" and it will be good. [P

Click to expand...

More like 8" I think.

Side Project (Shop Truck) Gets Some Attention

I picked up a different bed and overhead rack for the '58 yesterday. I saw a buddy had it on the back of his trailer to take to scrap and I asked what he wanted for it. He said, "You want it? It's yours." So out came the portable hoist and now it is



I've got some wood between it and the frame and a floor jack holding the back level to take some measurements. With those numbers in hand, today's job will be to cut and redo the brackets that came with it to make it fit my frame and then bolt it down.

Yesterday I took an old GM bracket I had lying around from a passenger-side under-slung accessory and adapted it to fit a second alternator (which was also on the shelf from some other vehicle). In this image I was checking clearance and alignment and still needed to make a piece of flat going to the top bolt of the bottom alt to hold it solid but this is where it will be.


I have a couple of larger CS models that would put out more, but this 12SI already had the V-groove pulley so I went with it to get everything lined-up on the front of the engine.


I'll add a control panel to vary the input for 110V and need to order the diodes to replace the avalanche ones GM used to rectify the 3ph out [image right] to be able to do any adequate DC welding "in the field".

I've used traditional A/C compressors as a source of onboard compressed air in the past. The refrigerant carries the lubrication in those so they're not supposed to last too long when you use them that way. Although I haven't had one seize up, I picked-up a York style that has it's own oil reservoir in its crankcase and will be making brackets for it when I'm done with the onboard welder / 3ph source.



Just like the cylindrical compressor, the wire running to to back of the pulley controls an electromagnetic clutch. Run 12VDC through the air tank's pressure switch to this wire for on/off operation at your desired pressures. Add an additional switch inline with that and you can ensure it's disengaged when you're cranking the engine or wanting the little extra for passing.