Recent content by biGshiz79

die grinder, and a weld buster disc makes quick work of it. just like a cut off wheel, but 4 times as thick..... then a 90degree whizzer with a 36 grit disc. --- this is the fastest and least laborious way I've came across removing sheet metal welds...

as a bodyman I have a few hammers. a BFH for the stupid stuff. a curved "donkey dick" for beating out stuff in awkward places. collision damage, really. but for exterior sheetmetal, I use 1 hammer 99% of the time. (i have 4 or 5, but the 1 is the best.) it's a curved chisel body hammer...

cleco's are great for brand new, perfectly straight metal. like making a box from sheetmetal. but in the real world, stuff needs some tension on it to pull it together, especially when curves are present. as a bodyman, vise grips work great, but I pass on the cleco's. I've had great luck...

headliner $20 of fabric store upholstery vinyl

chopped, painted and installed interior sheet metal, and upper door trim pieces. my goal is to have a crusty, unfinished outside, and nice enough inside to make my lady happy, keep our clothes clean, and look cool and finished. I kinda wanted to show off a little bit too, since there's really...

dash is in.

painted my dash today. shaved some unused holes, fixed some rust holes, and primed twice to smooth and jellybean the thing. painted it GM Victory Red, then did some old school "cobwebbing" or "soot paint" after it was basecoated and dry, I used the torch with the acetelyne on, and belching...

so now the fun stuff... if you spray clearcoat diretly on bare metal, it will not adhere properly, and will explode within a year or two. it's a TOPCOAT, it has no corrsion protective properties. instead, I used a new product that was previously only available in black. it's Wurth Rust Gaurd...

upper headliner / dash I'm using Rustoleum 'Hammered Meta'l Bronze on lots of stuff. it's a tough, hard enamel and it hides 35 grit scratches and rust pits because it crackles on purpose primed dash chunk of a 2011 Ram tailgate for my rust repair.

fabbed some linkages, to make the doors open. added a pretty sweet handle.

the passenger door's done, now to the driver's door then I have to fit the door cards, and engineer some type of handle and lock system. good thing we've got some junk doors in the scrap bin!

added an intrusion beam from a wrecked door for structure. Made a great place to mount the lower hinge!

suicide doors done. used a no-name ebay kit. it came with latches, strikers, latch housings, a bunch of plates, shims and stuff. the hinges have GM bushings in them, and a ball/spring type adjustable door check. hella good deal for $150!

left the bullet holes.. * they're all right behind the driver's head area.... what's this all about?!!!?!!!! roofskin was a pain.