Recent content by Sniper1

Well, got the 51 back on the road today, legally that is, lol. Electric fan swap is done, real quiet, barely can hear it at 30 mph with the windows down and you really have to listen for it. Disc brake swap is done, stops nice and straight. Did a DIY alignment on it, steers straight...

I guess I should mention the Derale fan I am running is rated at 1800cfm on low speed and 2400 cfm on high speed. My readings are not cubic feet per minute, but rather feet per second. I figure since the readings are all with the same device and the same spec it ought to be a valid comparison of...

Now for the numbers. Electrical - on low speed the fan draws 16.5 amps. On high speed the fan draws 22.5 amp, numbers bounced around some so it's a middle number. Once the engine hit 210 I jumpered out the switch and turned the low speed fan on. Once the low speed fan cooled as much as it...

Some think that the factory put a spring in the lower hose to keep the water pump from sucking it shut, they did not. In the picture below you see why the factory put that spring in there. Maybe the time it takes to uncollapse that hose when vacuum filling the system matters to the factory, to...

After at least 10 minutes of holding a vacuum this is where i was at. I do have one head bolt that is a tiny bit weepy. 50 cmhg is about 19.5 inches of mercury.

Once everything was installed, not going to cover putting in the radiator, lol, it came time to put in coolant. Decided to do it like the factory does, vacuum down the cooling system and let it pull in the coolant. No air to burp if there is no air in the system. This setup uses shop air and a...

Front side picture of the fan. Had to shift it over to clear the heater blower motor. In the bottom right section of the fan you can see the terminal block I used to connect the fan wiring to my relay setup. Era appropriate setup, lol. Everything clears with room to spare, though getting to the...

Here we have the fan assembly installed, after multiple R&R's to sort out all the details. The three visible mounting studs are actually 1/4-20 bolts screwed in from the front of the core support. The factory just used 4 bolts screwed in from the backside of the core support to hold the radiator...

Here we can see how I secured the long 1/4-20 bolt I used to hold the fan. Bolt head is on the radiator side of the mount (I checked to make sure it clears), a nut secures the bolt to the mount, the nylon spacer is visible and if you have young eyes you might just be able to see the window foam...

Installed the fan to the mount, had to use coupling nuts as the hole was too small for a 7/16 socket to fit on a regular 1/4-20 nut It works.

I mounted the fan to the mount we fabbed up. I don't care for the skinny plastic mounting things that are included with the fan. Hence the mount. If you look in the picture you'll see where I used 1/4-20 bolts to mount the fan. I needed to use some nylon spacers to mount the fan as it bowed up...

Got the cooling fan swap done, sort of. I am tired of buying third world junk and paying first world prices for it. I had to buy three toggle switches before I got one to work without a failure of some sort. First one mechanically locked up after one use. Second one, the cheap pot metal...

Back when I took drafting, the old paper and pen style not this CAD stuff, we had a tool called a french curve for making curves.

One last thing we did do, the timing marks on the stock lower pulley, no balancer on this engine, are extremely faint. So I cleaned them up and Marked TDC (small mark) and 5 BTDC (large mark) so I can see them when I am timing the engine. I need to spray it with clear to keep it readable.

Here is the template all marked out. We had to shift the fan to the driver's side some to clear the heater fan motor. I really wanted the fan shifted to the passenger side so as to give more access room for the petcock but that was not to be. I can still get to the petcock but it will be...