Canadian 41 build opinions

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nfcrascal

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2010
Messages
9
Location
B.C.Canada
So I picked up this 41 as is. To me the chop and drop is a little rough and the doors drop an 1/2 inch when open. Any ideas on how to fix. The mock up motor is jammed tight to firewall.Should I move ahead an inch.I have a complete 79 Z28 with a fresh 70 350 4 bolt, Super T10, 10 bolt posi the body is shot. I,d like to use the leaf springed front end ,is it possible to use the disc brakes from the Z28.The Paint I want will be a satin and it needs to be safe and fendered to pass inspection.I,m just having a hard time deciding where to start and any ideas will be most helpful Thanks
 

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So I picked up this 41 as is. To me the chop and drop is a little rough and the doors drop an 1/2 inch when open.

Sounds like your hinges need adjusting.

The mock up motor is jammed tight to firewall. Should I move ahead an inch.

I had the same problem & used a recessed firewall & another recess for the dizzy! Here's what mine ended up looking like...

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showpost.php?p=136164&postcount=372

is it possible to use the disc brakes from the Z28.

Should be able to... most kits I've see are based on big Chevy's.

it needs to be safe and fendered to pass inspection

Does it need to be full fendered of just the fronts?

BoB
 
Canadian 41

WOW thats quick replies Thanks
and no full fenders front and back.I was thinking about motorbike fenders and if they pass a fair weather law here I can take them off, adjust the hinges with shims I would guess
 
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Hi from Ontario.....First thing I would do is see if you are going to fit in that cab. It is channeled quite a bit.....How tall are you?

As for the 79 drivetrain, is it in there now? It will be basically the same setup as whats in there now, so shouldnt be a problem. You said about using the Camaro front springs and brakes? That would involve using the frame clip....it would be too wide for that truck, just adapting the brakes would be the way to go, or the stock drums could be made to work quite easily
 
Sounds like the door pins are worn out and need replaced.
The brake can be adapted to the front axle. RPM on here should have the stuff to do it with.
Make two relief cuts at the yellow lines and move that part of the firewall back 1/2" to 3/4" then weld it back. Looks like the dizzy has at least a 1/2" to 3/4" clearance if so, it will be fine also.
While you're at it, make sure the engine and tranny have around 3 degrees of down angle from the front of the engine to the back of the tranny.
 
Going with narrow tires, at least upfront, will help the look with fenders on. Fenders that fit over wide treads almost always look hokey in my opinion.
 
Canadian 41

Thanks for the tip Old Iron on the doors,Has new pins and the cuts is what I thought would have to be done. and yes i will check the drivetrain when I swap motor and trans

Sorry if I wasn,t clear on on the frontend i,d like to keep the current leaf spring and just adapt the disc brakes from the Z28.

Do you think I should box the frame or would an X member do, the new motor is about 400hp with 4spd and launch a little harder I don,t want to twist the frame if , when i get on it hard.

I would like to try and use as much as I can off the Z28,motor,trans rearend,brakes ,clutch and mechanical linkage ( not a fan for hydraulic),shifter,
maybe steering column,gauges, wiring and anything else I can make fit
I just finished a project,took the drivetrain from a 76 Chero and put it in a 86 Grand wagoneer
Thanks again everyone for your input.
 

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Wheelbarrows make a neat recessed firewall. I think OI is right on the hinge pins. You might be able to drill the hinges for an oversize pin or put bushings in them. As to a clutch linkage, I doubt much from the Camaro will bolt in without a lot of work. I'd get a swinging pedal assembly from Speedway and build new linkage to fit. You might be able to use a cable linkage from a early S10 or Fox Mustang.
 
If your door hinge pins aren't too worn out you could just adjust the door like I do sometimes. Open the door. Lay a six foot long two-by-four on the running board sticking straight out from the seat base. Put a shorter two-by-four crossways on the long one, to go under the door bottom parallel to the door when it's almost closed. This is to save putting any pressure on the bottom of the doorskin. Now lift up on the long plank and it will raise the door, bending the tin near the hinges and adjusting the door. Raise it up a little more than you want because there will be a little sag back down. Quite often old car doors are bent down from people riding on them, so you're just bending them back up.
 
brake info

http://www.droppedaxles.com/TECH_ARTICLES.html
I have a 41 1/2 ton behind the barn, haven't done anything to it, except bought an interior door panel.
If you are going to run 6 bolt wheels you can use nissan 4 X 4 6 bolt rotors,new lug studs and make or buy some caliper brackets.
we pulled the front suspension stuff off an elcamino that was going to the crusher, I think the parts will work for the 5 lug disc brake conversion. I have a chevy I beam axle with brakes, don't know the year but the spring mounting is the same as a 20's Hay wagon chevy frame we got fou cleaning up the stack of stuff in a neighbor's horse pasture.
 
Wood Body structure ?

I don't think my 41 has any wood sub structure, sometimes there is a difference between US and other body builds, My son's 34 pickup cab had a total wood sub structure and will need a total tube structure, doors included. when we start on it.
 

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