Planning an additional project

[onetondodge]

Hello,

I have been brain storming some plans for a 47 dodge parts truck I am getting. It's kind of all I can think about, If you could tell me if I am along the right lines and give me some pointers I would appreciate it.

1. s10 swb frame swap, I am not using the orginal bed so I don't know if it matters to use a wheel base that matches the orginal dodge wheel base.

2. sbc swap - this is where I am getting hung up, I want to find a used 350 8.5:1 compression to run a blower, I've heard it is better to run lower compression when running boost. I am trying to do this fairly cheap, the blower would be the biggest expense. My next thought would be to mill the heads down for higher compression and try to get some extra hp other ways. I just like the look of a blower and at the end of the day it seems the best option for the most power, looking to get between 350-400hp

3. some 5 or 6 speed manual transmission, maybe something that can handle up to 400 ft/tq

4. I found a nine inch rearend kit for an s10 that has the same bolt pattern and is already set up to just bolt up, but maybe the stock s10 axle can be beefed up a little, not sure

5. I'm think I want to channel the body over the frame, not sure how much

That's mostly what I have thought of so far for the drivetrain/engine, I would love to be able to run this at the texas mile. but for the most part this is a budget hot-rod. I am also unsure of what tire/wheel combination I want to go with, I want it to be able to run, but also have the look of the time period

So there you have my loose mock up of my truck in my head, please give any opinions you have toward the subject, I am hoping to start the project at the end of the summer

 

[Flipper_1938]

If you are going to spend that much money on parts, I'd put it on a prettier frame than a S-10

I'd build something based on a 32 ford style frame....in my opinion one of the prettiest set ups for fenderless cars and trucks.

Oh yeah, you should be able to get close to the 350 horsepower range on your 8.5 compression 350. Pick a decent cam, intake, carb, ignition and headers (along with pocket porting the heads). Decent pistons and rod bolts will help it live longer.

 

[onetondodge]

If you are going to spend that much money on parts, I'd put it on a prettier frame than a S-10

I'd build something based on a 32 ford style frame....in my opinion one of the prettiest set ups for fenderless cars and trucks.

Oh yeah, you should be able to get close to the 350 horsepower range on your 8.5 compression 350. Pick a decent cam, intake, carb, ignition and headers (along with pocket porting the heads). Decent pistons and rod bolts will help it live longer.

Flipper, Your killing my buzz(j/k), I will run fenders, I thought about just running the original frame, maybe z the frame, but this would be hard for me to do, I would have to have a shop do it and I have no clue how much that would run. and then I would have to have a shop fab up some motor mounts, etc.

So what do you think? Does change anything since I'm running fenders? or would you still run a prettier frame?

Thank you,
Paul

 

[BigIrish]

If you are running fenders then S-10 would be pretty good. I think you are still going to have to do some welding to get the body on properly though - right?

 

[onetondodge]

If you are running fenders then S-10 would be pretty good. I think you are still going to have to do some welding to get the body on properly though - right?

Well, I found a place that does a universal frame swap kit for old trucks, that will work on a dodge - its a bolt on kit, but I also thought I would just have my local shop mount up the body for me, I think it would be cheaper than any of my other choices. At least until I get myself a welder. But I think running an s10 frame has the least amount of welding, once I get past mounting the body I can do most everything else myself

 

[devils reject]

Well, I found a place that does a universal frame swap kit for old trucks, that will work on a dodge - its a bolt on kit, f

P

PLease explain this bolt on kit ?

 

[Shea Laking]

P

PLease explain this bolt on kit ?

www.e-zchassisswaps.com

Looks like their products are well thought out and fabricated.

The idea of building a rod with your second truck seems to be a sound one. On the other hand, I would advise against trying to build a blower motor "on the cheap". I don't have ANY experience with them, but I highly doubt that a "farmer rebuild" would handle the extra stresses that a blower will add to it-not to mention, passing up on proper machining will not allow the cylinders to seal properly thus reducing the amount of boost you actually achieve.

There's no way on earth a 7.5" or 7.65" ring gear S-10 diff will stand up to a blown motor...I doubt an 8.5" ring gear S-10 diff would live long behind one, either. A 9" Ford, set up to bolt in would be the best diff for that kind of application.

The matter of wheelbase is entirely up to you. In most cases, the most "correct" looking fit for an early truck would be the regular cab longbox S-10 chassis, which runs 117.9" wheelbase. Some of the guys building Chevy Advance Design pickups use the longer extended cab shortbox which has a 122.9" wheelbase and allows the use of a long box (3/4 ton pickup). I've seen one or two done using the regular cab shortbox chassis, which has a 108" wheelbase. If you plan to run a flatbed, or a shortened pickup bed, this might just look okay. I would stay away from the Blazer/Jimmy chassis, as the two door only has a 98" wheelbase. The four door has a 108" wheelbase, BUT the kickup over the rear axle is higher than the equivalent pickup chassis.

WHEW! My fingers are tired! That being said, I'd like to offer one more link:

www.s-series.org

A great place to get platform specific info if you do decide to use an S-truck chassis. I'm a member over there, as well (see my avitar pic)

Hope some of this info helps. Keep us posted once you get going![P

Regards,
Shea

 

[devils reject]

well that cleared up things for me i didnt ever know i had questions on?!
thanks shea

 

[Shea Laking]

well that cleared up things for me i didnt ever know i had questions on?!
thanks shea

No worries, dude! I dig on the S-trucks (own my second one right now) and I also dig on the Chevy Advance Design trucks (that's my DREAM truck).

Needless to say, I've read everything I could find about either one on the web...There sure is a wealth of info out there. I can't afford time/money to work on my jalopy truck right now, so I like to spend time here seeing what others are doing and pass on info I've found to try and help if I can.

Regards,
Shea

 

[onetondodge]

www.e-zchassisswaps.com

Looks like their products are well thought out and fabricated.

The idea of building a rod with your second truck seems to be a sound one. On the other hand, I would advise against trying to build a blower motor "on the cheap". I don't have ANY experience with them, but I highly doubt that a "farmer rebuild" would handle the extra stresses that a blower will add to it-not to mention, passing up on proper machining will not allow the cylinders to seal properly thus reducing the amount of boost you actually achieve.

There's no way on earth a 7.5" or 7.65" ring gear S-10 diff will stand up to a blown motor...I doubt an 8.5" ring gear S-10 diff would live long behind one, either. A 9" Ford, set up to bolt in would be the best diff for that kind of application.

The matter of wheelbase is entirely up to you. In most cases, the most "correct" looking fit for an early truck would be the regular cab longbox S-10 chassis, which runs 117.9" wheelbase. Some of the guys building Chevy Advance Design pickups use the longer extended cab shortbox which has a 122.9" wheelbase and allows the use of a long box (3/4 ton pickup). I've seen one or two done using the regular cab shortbox chassis, which has a 108" wheelbase. If you plan to run a flatbed, or a shortened pickup bed, this might just look okay. I would stay away from the Blazer/Jimmy chassis, as the two door only has a 98" wheelbase. The four door has a 108" wheelbase, BUT the kickup over the rear axle is higher than the equivalent pickup chassis.

WHEW! My fingers are tired! That being said, I'd like to offer one more link:

www.s-series.org

A great place to get platform specific info if you do decide to use an S-truck chassis. I'm a member over there, as well (see my avitar pic)

Hope some of this info helps. Keep us posted once you get going![P

Regards,
Shea

Thank you for your feedback,

I had a partial thought that I could get away with running a blower on a 'farmer rebuild', nothing crazy, but I'm with you. I'm seeing the best route would be a nice built motor, It would cost about the same as running a blower, and down the road I could throw one on.


As for the rear end, I think the ford 9" is the best route as well, I just didn't know if anyone had beefed up an s10 rear to handle 350hp.

Thank you again,

Paul

 

[Shea Laking]

Paul,

No problem at all, I'm always glad to help when I can!

You might manage to have a GM 8.5" ring gear diff built to handle 350 or so horsepower, but again, I'm not 100% sure...I bet there's alot of v8 S-10 guys running around with 'em behind about 300HP in an S-truck.

Oh, yeah, that brings to mind another link, specific to V8's in S-Trucks:

www.v8s10.org

Might find even better and more specific driveline info there.

Regards,
Shea