Solid axle with R & P ?s

[ratfun]

Hi,
This is my first try at this forum stuff. I have started a 1936 Plymouth sedan build. I have looked at all threads about this subject but still have some questions. I have decided to use the R & P attached to my axle. It's a tube with a four inch drop. I know the RP needs to be level and centered. Do the tie
rod arms need to come level out from the body of the RP? I'm using a 2003 Kia Rio power RP hooked to a chev PU tilt steering column that has the slip section in it. I have a 454 I'm using and I want to use it's steering pump. Do R & Ps work with any pump? This looks so simple am I missing anything?
Thanks

 

[JBailey]

First off I'm no expert but, I think you might have problems with the 454 PS pump. I would see if you can retro fit the kia PS pump onto the 454, so it moves the proper amount of fluid.

Of course I could be wrong lol.

 

[kenny c]

i'm no expert either. remember that if you mount the ps rack to the axle rather than the chassis you will need enough travel in the splined steering shaft with out binding for full travel of axle, both compressed and fully extended.also you need enough hose and to have it routed so it doesn't kink, get over extended or rub on anything. that being said there is a company called unisteer that makes a non power cross steer rack that is frame mounted. it may be an option. you never want to cut corners on steering or brakes. back to the question of tie rod angle. it should be mounted as flat as possible so it doesn't bind at full turn. I don't think it will hurt your akerman to have a little angle to your tie rods. I do remember hearing somewhere that to improve akerman on a car with the rack in front of the axle you would try to get as much angle in the tie rods as possible.I hope this helps, I'm sure there is someone here that knows a lot more than I do.

 

[choppinczech]

Ever seen this guy's setup. It's a Civic R&P.

 

[Bamamav]

From what I have read, the tie rods need to be level with the ground at ride height. As far as the pump goes, you need to know the operating pressure of the rack, and match the pump to it. I know they make a deal that reduces the pressure of a GM pump to match that of a Mustang II and/or Thunderbird rack, so it might work in your case too. You will have to have u joints at both ends of your shaft as well as a slip sleeve in the middle of it, look at a semi truck with an air ride cab like a Freightliner or International, they have a nice shaft on them.

Can't believe I just described something as having a nice shaft!

 

[bob w]

I've done a few of them but not with power steering. Typical movement in the slip joint is under 1/2" depending on the angle of the pinion. I have a friend with a high end T roadster and he has no slip joint. Just lets the steering wheel move up and down 3/8". You can't feel it.

choppingczech, conventional wisdom is to not mount the rack to the frame as shown on the blue roadster. However, I've talked to 3 or 4 people with that arrangement. They all claim no ill effects. I think the saving grace is there is very little up and down axle movement because of stiff springs. As a result, little bump steer.

 

[zzrodder]

The others have pretty much covered it all - the Kia pump is probably the best idea. Frame mount is a bad idea but as Bob said, some guys get away with it if the suspension is stiff - depends on how much bump steer you are prepared to live with.
A few years ago I was studying the engineering on some 4x4's at a mud bog race and a bunch of them were using R&P units mounted to the front axle. Some used long slip joints and some were using the old flexible steering shaft from a Pinto, I guess the Mustang II had the same shaft ?? Granted these machines were not seeing highway speeds but they were definitely dealing with substantial suspension travel, so it can be done...

 

[ratfun]

Great Replies

Thanks for all the great replies to my questions. I am pretty much on track with what was said. The RP is going to be attached to the axle. I had to shorten it an inch and half on each end plus use Hiem joints with a welded on sleeve because of the metric to standard size issue. I will be doing the research on the steering pump. The Kia pump is real small and uses a separate reservoir. I have the GM pump and it is adjustable I think. I heard the problem is it will work but wear out the RP faster if the pressure is tho high. The S-10 column looks so good I think only the two existing joints will be needed, one being a rag joint, maybe that's not good. Seems like it would be a good dampener. anyway.......
Thanks again. I'll be back I'm Sure. ratfun

 

[UncleDonnie]

I'm running a later Ford beam axle transverse leaf with a RP bolted to it. A couple degrees downward angle on the tie rods and the only problem is interferance at full lock with the radius rods (this is being fixed). Mine is non power and it steers real easy, lighter car with SB Mopar.

I made my own slip joint with 2" of overlap at static ride hieght and safely 1" travel in or out. The rock crawler guys are using this concept for long travel drivelines.

Don