The Truth About One Wire Altenators.

[LordMaximo]

The Alt problem......lol.....

Hey, you forgot to include the actual output of the one wire unit you upgraded your system too. You said you needed 105 amps minimum to operate everything in your ride. So you had to at least upgrade to an alternator that had 120amp constant O.P. to maintain your ride.

This is the point you left out. Of coarse Lakota is correct. You can not say you replaced your old 60 or 70 amp 3 wire unit with a 1 wire unit at the same rating. it does not work that way. It would be good if everyone actually included the whole truth intheir technical post before slamming someone.

I myself am an electrical/ electronics technicial person. I have work in this trade for nearly 35 years with advance degrees in electronics systems.
The laws of physics has only been challenged twice inthe last 150 years. And this tech artical is really getting bunk. No possible way a like 1-wire can handle 105 minimum load requirements.

So, in the future to all of you, do your story telling in complete truths and do include the upgrades in real numbers.

Lord Maximo

 

[DonMan]

I have never used a one-wire alternator in an automotive application. I did replace the 85 amp alternator on my boat with a 130 amp, one-wire unit from AlterStart (Dallas). I have a mega-amp (my terminology for expensive and loud ) stereo and dual batteries on my boat.
I have a volt meter on the dash and it reads higher than before and is more consistant.
My experience has been favorable with a one-wire alternator on my boat, but I don`t foresee buying one for any of my cars.

 

[oldmule]

I had to read all the posts to make sure I didn't miss anything I was going to point out....
Anyway, what I saw was a debate over apples and oranges. The original post was talking about going out and grabbing your OLD Delco alternator and making it a one wire. NOT taking a new "made for 1 wire" alternator and adding it to your system. The aftermarket guys know to re design the charging circuit to make a one wire work. Thanks to LordMaximo for pointing out the discrepancy here.....

Now, my question for Lakota or LordM.
If I were to take a stock alternator, in my case, a 90 amp unit, can I do a one wire and have it run my systen like the 55amp one would? This is theoretically.

Anyone want to know how I made an underhood welder off a Ford alternator? It might raise the mood of this post......

 

[cyclopsblown34]

Start a new thread on it. It sounds interesting. Unless of course you are being facetious. Which if that is the case, how did you create the short circuit?

 

[oldmule]

Actually, not joking, it got me off the trail once....

 

[wallaka]

Good article on the subject: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

 

[Willowbilly3]

My 2 cents. I have been fixing cars a long time and replaced maybe 50 Delcos to every Ford (external ones) The old Ford alternators are almost bullit proof even if the regulator isn't. You MUST use a Ford or Motorcraft regulator. The one wire might be temptingly easy but only if you are ok with an inferior alternator. Me? I'll spend a little extra time to wire in a regulator and run the Ford unit.

 

[59 wagon man]

just my .02 which doesn't mean much .have a 1 wire from powermaster on my 59 chevy.made the power tour last year from fla to nj and back running a/c all the way and a big stereo amp and no problems to report but as was stated below 1200 rpm the volt gauge reads around 10 volts give it a little kick and it jumps right up to around 13.5 volts. just made a round trip this weekend of 600 miles no problem. it was just easier when i rewired the car and it works fine so far

 

[donsrods]

I have to admit I see mine dip into the 11 volt range when sitting at a light sometimes, and mine is also a Powermaster one wire. Hasn't created any charging problems yet as it jumps up to 14 when underway. I am a little surprised because I have been running a one wire on my Jeep/5.0 truck for 5 years without that happening.

Don

 

[Abomb]

This is by no means a technical post on my part, I deal with lasers, not electrons. I have used both converted ( by an auto electric shop ) and over the counter ( from Napa ) one wires for years, on several cars. Not one single problem......ever. My cars have ranged from lights and nothing else, to full blown fuel injection, power windows, door solenoids, and huge stereo cars. The fact that the engine rpm has to increase to trigger the alt. to charge has no effect on me, because when I start my car. I'll then actually drive it somewhere.

 

[35Mastr]

I am going to chime in on this.I also run Powermaster 1 wires.Dont run alot of aftermarket stuff other than your normal things and a radio.No amps.I run Arc Cable from the Batt. to the starter.Have very good Grounds.I use Classic Instrument gauges.All American Wing Series.I have at leat 14.5 volts at all times even at idle with the electric fan running.I have found that running the largest cable to run the system from the starter is your best bet.Like I said ARC cable is what works for me.Its real big and will not give you any voltage drop across the board.Voltage drop is where you will have all and any concerns with all gauges and accessories.Try to run the largest cable that you can to the starter and then go from there.Been doing it this way for 15 years and never had any probs.Always remember that Voltage Drop is a serious concern.If you dont have decent cable you will have Voltage Drop through out the system.this will eventually lead to system falure and or Fire.The last one is the one that you will never be ready for if it should happen while out on the road away from home.I have seen them burn and had a coulpe burn up in front of me and they were not even my cars.

When it comes to wiring you ride.All I have to say is just spend the extra dollar and do that part rite the first time.

The last thing you want to ever see is your ride burning to the ground and not being able to anything about it while on the road.

 

[Willowbilly3]

OK, I skimmed a few months but just wanted to ad my 2 cents. I have had a bit of training and a lot of experience fixing cars.
first off the battery is for starting the car and absorbing voltage spikes. The alternator is supposed to run the components.
If you want to test your system: check battery voltage at rest (presumed healthy, fully charged battery here) Then start the car and turn everything on, you should still have one volt above the battery voltage. Also don't concern yourself so much with amps. if the volts are there you are ok.
I am not sure if there is a difference in 1 wire delcos but I know a lot of guys who have to rev the engine to make them charge. I also feel they are an inferior alternator to the old external Ford units and would go to extra effort to wire in a Ford alternator and regulator any day. Back in the 80s when I was in the repair business I replaced maybe 40-50 Delcos for every Ford alternator. Sure the Ford regulators fail occasionally but they are easy to test and you can jumper out and full feild one in an emergency.