Will this work? (Paint Question)

[rogers_68]

I just can't see forking over a few thousand dollars to repaint my bus. I've been all around thinking of different options. Last week I stripped my rear bumper and primed it with a DupliColor rattle can, a brown/reddish sandable primer. I love the color. My wife, who appreciates my appreciation for ratty ol' vehicles loves the color, too.

I've got a few surface rust issues to take care of, as well as a few rust-related repairs (i.e., holes) and I've been planning on rolling on Rustoleum this summer after I fix everything. I really like the primered look and the DupliColor color I found. On most spots on my bus I can just scratch up the existing paint and paint over it.

Here's my question:

On a few spots I have to go down to bare metal to get all the rust off. Should I use a primer/sealer first, and then use the sandable primer that I like the color of over the top? If that's a bad idea, is there any other way to use the sandable primer for the topcoat, while still protecting the metal underneath?

Another thought I had was to use the sandable, then find a low-sheen clear coat to put over the top for durability. Would that work?

My goals are to a) protect any bare metal and b) find a way to have the sandable brown/reddish primer be the visible topcoat.

Thanks,
Justin

 

[streetrodman]

painted a few in my day

right or wrong here is how I do it:

If you have any dark rusty spots on the body that are not through the panels, and appear to be strong, just "surface rusty" you need to clean/sand as much of that away as possible. Cutting it out and welding in new steel is always the best option. However if your skills are low, and you are just going to primer the final look, then I would put some rust eater on the dark spots after cleaning as much as possible. This will stop the rusting process at that spot by turning the steel to a milky/black color. Then I would HIGHLY recommend using a good etching primer sealer, followed by any color of standard primer for your base coat. clear coat after if desired.
Always remember that rust to a car is like cancer to a human, if you sand it down and prime it without stopping the rust.....it will return even after you primed it.
Good luck my friend.

streetrodman

 

[rogers_68]

Thanks streetrodman.

If I decide to put a clear coat over the final primer color, will this be to protect the primer or will it also help protect the metal underneath it all?

Thanks.

 

[rustbucket49]

I gotta ask because I don't know... Can you actually put a clear coat on top of a primer??? ---say a high build ??

 

[dogpatch1]

yep you can.. primer is and adheision agent it is ment to go between metal and a top coat sealer to aid in helping the paint stick.(it doent mater if its a color or a clear) primer itself is not a sealant, and will, over time absorb moisture and let that mousture get to the metal under it. so clearing with with a clear topcoat is very advisable. 1 make sure their compatable and 2 some paints require that you top coat them within 2 hours of first applying or waiting 72 hours to let all the solvents evaporate not doing this will cause whats called lifting. hope this helps dp1

 

[rustbucket49]

Very nice ! I didn't know you could do that. This opens up some possibilities.

Rogers - have you checked out Kustom Shops Hot Rod Flatz ?? There are a lot of colors out there and they don't require clear coat I don't believe. May end up being a cheaper option to buy the single stage Flatz as opposed to a primer AND a clear. Of course, you have to have a primer w/ the Flatz too, so maybe not.....

It may be a little cheaper though and give you some extra color choices you may like even better than the one you found... Just a thought -