Foot Well Pic's (automatic only)

Rat Rods Rule

Help Support Rat Rods Rule:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Couper

Well-known member
RRR Supportor
Joined
Aug 26, 2020
Messages
1,309
Location
Northern NJ
Hey Guys...

Anyone have any foot well pics? I'm struggling to figure out how the gas pedal and brake pedal is going to fit. I've got the brake pedal bar bent so it is very close to the inside of the frame rail and I really am having a hard time visulaizing how the gas pedal is going to fit.

I'm thinking about welding up a pedal bar that will bend over the top of my frame rail or go under and come up on the outside of the rail.....

Thanks
Couper
 
Different builds take a different work around so, you may have a better result if you'll post pics for us to help suggest ideas.
 
My foot well

So here's some pictures.If I'm going to be able to drop my trans I'll need to make my trans tunnel follow that angled piece of 1 x2. I did get a trans mounted shifter so the only thing to that side will be the linkage. I'm thinking I will have to get creative with my brake pedal and have it above the frame rail or bring it under and up on the outside of the frame rail. And I got a small......foot :eek:)
 

Attachments

  • DSCF5637.jpg
    DSCF5637.jpg
    106 KB · Views: 19
  • DSCF5638.jpg
    DSCF5638.jpg
    104 KB · Views: 15
I don't give the tranny that much side to side room in my builds, I only give it an inch on each side.
Not the best pics but maybe they will help

attachment.php

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160519_090124851.jpg
    IMG_20160519_090124851.jpg
    20 KB · Views: 38
  • IMG_20160519_090137553.jpg
    IMG_20160519_090137553.jpg
    22.9 KB · Views: 38
Last edited:
I have studied your pictures and I think you have enough room there for a gas pedal. If you mount the pedal pivot on the firewall and keep the pedal fairly high off the floor, you can have it above the transmission pan rim. The trans tunnel will slope toward the right enough that your foot can reach the pedal handily. You may have to put a chunk of 2X4 on the floor to keep your heel raised up a wee bit. I have confidence that you're still doing fine. [cl
 
Thanks Merc. I installed my trans mounted shifter this morning and it came with it's own trans lever. It won't be as far out and give me another 1.5"or so.

I'll poder your suggestion when I get back out to the garage tonight. Right now I have Santa Claus company.

Merry Christmas Merc!
 
I installed my trans mounted shifter today and it came with it's own lever for the trans. It's flat and tight to the trans....that gives me a little extra room. I'm gona mess around with some cardboard again to see how tight I can make it.

I've been thinking I'd shape a combo tunnel and console but need to concentrate on just the tunnel right now.

I've watched a bunch of Youtubes of people pulling 700R4 transmissions to get an idea how much room I need to drop it. It looks like Bob is correct on the 6" is plenty and maybe the tunnel can be tight cause it is going to drop down. I just don't want to weld this all in and have interferences.

I should get the dam torque converter so I can do a dry run. I talked to Hughes on the converter and the dud suggested a 2500 stall 25-2L. One of my buddy;s is telling me the drivibility of the 2500 stall is going to make for a rough take off. I looked up stock and they are 1600 to 1800. The hughes guy selected the converter based on a lot of info....rear ratio, cam duration, estimated hp, tire dia, weight ect. You guys know anything about TC's and this stall speed / driveabilty jazz?

Couper
 
A 2,200 to 2,500 would work just fine.
My 37 has a 2,500 to 2,800 and it works just fine too.
My 392 Hemi has a Sig Erson 280 cam with 3.25 rear end 700r4 tranny and it doesn't lack for performance in any gear.
 
Looks like this will work for me. Little concerned about getting the trans back.

Merc's idea of the fire wall mount should work.

I'm gona tack one up but not weld it in until I have the TC in and can do a dry run of dropping the tranny

Couper
 

Attachments

  • DSCF5643.jpg
    DSCF5643.jpg
    77.8 KB · Views: 16
Thanks for the TC info Old Iron. I will order the 2500 they sized for me.

I framed out the driver side floor with 1x1.5.The idea was to stand it up but ended up laying it down. I know it's not as strong but the pieces are short. I went around the perimeter with angle iron and the section you see drops in. I'm weld it in once I cross my t's and dot my i's. I'll place a cab / floor mount at that right corner of the added inner frame rail.

I fabbed up a trans tunnel back to the shifter. I'm thinking I will make the tunnel a bolt in, in case I ever have to get in there. Not sure why but I got this idea that I might have to. Nice piece of weather strip and bolt her up.....that's the reason for the angle at the bottom.

I'm going to bring the brake pedal over the frame rail just under the floorboard to get the pedal over 3 or 4". That'll give me about 6" of travel before it hits the frame. I'd imagine that standard travel before a pedal hits the floor is about 6"??

Oh yeah.....one more thing. I have these ports on the back side of my heads. Sorta in the area where you might see freeze-out plugs, they mirror the ports on the front side of the heads (last pic). One side was almost touching the firewall and I needed some room, and if they were to leak, I'd have to pull the motor so I made a channel for access. I'll put 2 rubber plugs in the 3.5" holes you see peeking under the dash so I can get at them if need be.

All weekend to do this....moving like a snail

Of course some pictures
 

Attachments

  • DSCF5657.jpg
    DSCF5657.jpg
    100.9 KB · Views: 14
  • DSCF5656.jpg
    DSCF5656.jpg
    105.1 KB · Views: 14
  • DSCF5652.jpg
    DSCF5652.jpg
    84.9 KB · Views: 16
  • DSCF5539.jpg
    DSCF5539.jpg
    81.7 KB · Views: 14
Couper: It looks great.[cl Quality takes time. Thinking ahead like you are doing also saves a lot of time and grief in the future. Also who makes the shifter lever kit and is it cable operated?
 
I'm sure you already know this, those are ports for coolant the cross over manifold to bolt to.
The ones on the back are block off plates.
Great lookin work on the floorboard.

11980953-1958-chrysler-392-hemi-engine-std-c.jpg
 
I'm sure you already know this, those are ports for coolant the cross over manifold to bolt to.
The ones on the back are block off plates.
Great lookin work on the floorboard.

11980953-1958-chrysler-392-hemi-engine-std-c.jpg


Thanks on the floorboards!

That's a sweet looking motor! Is that your 392? I don't have that oil filler tube / breather. I think I have a threaded flat cap on the finned valley cover with some chrome breathers.

Yes I got that on the crossover plates. My motor has the plates with a plug in the center of the plate. I was just concerned if I was to get a leak there I'd have to pull the motor. I have to order that front crossover
 
Not my engine just a pic off the innerweb.
Mine has the Hot Heads valley plate with a pcv valve to no oil tube or road draft tube in the back either.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top