Custom Mopar ????

I never realized how far forward the 318 engine mounts are on the block. Looks good.

OIand Snopro.
I was surprised as well.
The GM engine mounts are about mid block.
The 318 are all the way forward at the front edge of the block.
I’m not sure yet if this is a good thing or a troublesome thing.
I’ve got to remove the S10 trans mount to get a better angle on the motor.
Right now it’s all the way down on the frame in front. And high at the rear of the trans.
I had to remove the fuel pump as it was hitting the S10 mount on the PS.
Long way to go.....
Torchie

I think you're best off to remove the frame side of the GM mount completely.
Get the mating part for the Dodge mounts, Then you can build some plates to move them where you need to be and mount the plate to the frame and mount the Dodge mounts to the frame. You can weld or bolt the plate to the frame and build a gusset on the back if needed.

05snopro440 said:

I think you're best off to remove the frame side of the GM mount completely.
Get the mating part for the Dodge mounts, Then you can build some plates to move them where you need to be and mount the plate to the frame and mount the Dodge mounts to the frame. You can weld or bolt the plate to the frame and build a gusset on the back if needed.

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I concur. I also remember how much fun it was getting at the GM mount. There are actually nuts and bolts attaching them. i ended up making an access hole on the front of the cross member.

05snopro440 said:

I think you're best off to remove the frame side of the GM mount completely.
Get the mating part for the Dodge mounts, Then you can build some plates to move them where you need to be and mount the plate to the frame and mount the Dodge mounts to the frame. You can weld or bolt the plate to the frame and build a gusset on the back if needed.

Click to expand...

Thanks skip and snopro.
I know that the stock S10 frame mounts part is removable.
I have seen mounts for the V-8 swap that are adjustable front to back.
They are for a GM so some mods would need to be made for the 318. My thought is that they would at least match up to the existing holes.
As far as finding the Mopar equivalent frame mount bracket I’m more or less hitting a wall. A body vs B body and things of that nature.
Not as well versed on this stuff as I will be.
I’m having a hard time even finding a picture of what the mount looks like coming off of the frame.
Maybe someone out there has a old Mopar( MAC???) that can take some pics for me. Thanks all.
Torchie

I would stay away from the swap mounts (a mistake many have made), and just make your own from some plate. I have no doubt you have the ability. Besides, you already have the existing hole pattern on your existing S10 frame side mounts. Once you take them off, you can trace that pattern easily.

The good news for you is that Dodge seems to have some pretty basic mounting geometry. For instance, look at these mounts for a 1970 Challenger etc. The two sides appear to mate via a threaded stud. That makes it easier for you. I would look at some mounts like these, if they work for your application.

If the mount is as simple as these look, then it should be pretty easy to make a mount using some plate.

If you don't want to completely fab something from scratch, have a look at something like this: Welder Series Chrysler Small Block Engine Mount Kit

Have a look at these search results for some ideas of how they mount and some mount ideas as well.

Thanks for all the links snopro. [cl
Some of them I have book marked already. Others I hadn't seen. The mounts that came with the 318 look like the ones I have pictured from Trans-dapt.
I have to come up with an Ear from the frame that the rubber mounts can mount to.
I suspect that as you said, I will just end up making some as each side is different.
What ever I do they will have to come up off the top of the frame as there isn't enough width between the block and the frame to have them attach to the inner side of the frame. They are right on the pad of the front cross member.
Didn't have any time today to mess with it. Plus it's still really close here. keeps trying to rain and doesn't which just boost the humidity level.
Hopefully tomorrow I can lift the engine up and pull off the remaining S 10 mounts.
Thanks again for all the help.
Torchie

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Sounds like the welder series mounts would make for a much cleaner install in that case. Curious to see what you figure out.

Torchie, I'll do some Dodgy photography today for you. I have a 318 still in a car and a 360 removed, so should get some more info for you.

MercuryMac said:

Torchie, I'll do some Dodgy photography today for you. I have a 318 still in a car and a 360 removed, so should get some more info for you.

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Beautiful Mac.
Thanks so much.
Torchie

Hot as snot here today.
I pulled off the S10 mounts off the frame.
Loosely installed the stock 318 mounts to the block. At least I think this is the way they go.[S
I know the pics are hard to navigate as I jumped from side to side. The mount with the rubber pad is the DS the one with out is the PS.
My brain being the way it is the simplest thought came to me immediately.
Make a steel plate that bolts down to the stock S10 mount holes on the frame.
Gusset the rear of it that over hangs the frame cross member.
Use the rubber pads that don't have the ears, or just some rubber doughnuts and go straight through the mounts and the plate with a bolt.
Could it really be this simple?????
I await Macs pics. This is just the start.
Keep on keeping on......
Torchie

That's what I had hoped you would be able to do when I first saw the style of the Dodge mounts. That's great!

05snopro440 said:

That's what I had hoped you would be able to do when I first saw the style of the Dodge mounts. That's great!

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Thanks snopro. Me too.
Did a quick pattern of the proposed plate with some of that expensive left over Mahogany plywood.[cl [ddd
The black magic marker line shows the outline of the frame under the plate.
The bolt coming down shows where the mounting hole falls on the plate.
NOW.......
I can get 1/8" plate with out too much problem . If I use 1/4" plate I may have to do some scrounging and have to buy way more then I need.
I'll have to make some calls tomorrow.
Thoughts on if I really need to go 1/4" or can I use 1/8" and weld in some support for the overhang area?
I can also do some trimming to the overhang area.
My 3rd tire arrived today. The 4th one gets here of Friday????
Time to clean up a couple more rims.
Thanks for visiting.
Keep on keeping on.....
Torchie

Your getting there [cl
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You could always double up the 1/8". Maybe a spot weld on the edges if you're afraid it might move.

Looking good! My thought is always to go heavier on brackets instead of welding a bunch of too thin stuff together. You can always drill some holes if you think its too heavy or for more pizzaz....

Sorry Torchie, I let you slip away from my thoughts.
Here is the 360 1980 Dodge drivers side first.
second pic is the righthand side.
third pic is what's left on the crossmember, it's upside down because the car is.
forth pic is the right way up, hopefully, because I thought to turn the camera upside down.
Hope this helps.

Thanks Bama and ZZ.
My inclination is to over build stuff like this too, ZZ. I’ll make some calls tomorrow and see if I can source a heavier gauge plate locally. I don’t want ho have to cut out 4 plates just to make 2 if I don’t have to.
Thanks for the pics , Mac.
Not being up on my Mopars, all the different styles of engine mounts they used had me scratching my head.
I couldn’t seem to reconcile which style was used on what engines and cars.
Your pics show the cylinder style yet it’s still on a Small block 360.
I have much to learn.
Torchie

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