Old Iron
Well-known member
Make sure the 331's don't have the extended bell housings, granted they can be milled off but, who need the machining cost.
Custom Mopar ????
- Thread starter Torchie
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Torchie
Well-known member
Thanks for the info, gang.
i have no idea if they are the extended bell housing or not. OI.
Mac. I believe I will be running an automatic. Lots of adapters available but I don't see one for the 904 trans.
At this time my plan is to move forward with the 318/904 engine trans combo.
I have no idea about the condition of the hemis and probably won’t until I lay hands on them this spring.
This way I can keep moving forward over the winter.
Torchie
i have no idea if they are the extended bell housing or not. OI.
Mac. I believe I will be running an automatic. Lots of adapters available but I don't see one for the 904 trans.
At this time my plan is to move forward with the 318/904 engine trans combo.
I have no idea about the condition of the hemis and probably won’t until I lay hands on them this spring.
This way I can keep moving forward over the winter.
Torchie
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Old Iron
Well-known member
I believe the 904 and 727 bolt right to the Hemi with the factory adapter that comes on the engines.
Torchie
Well-known member
Thanks OI.
I have seen those before but always with what looks like a bellhousing for a manual trans.
I can see that "I need Schooling" when it comes to early hemis.
I know that the 727 and the 904 have the same bolt pattern. As long as they are both SB mopar trans.
I have no idea what will be coming with the engines.
I guess I'll have to stick around till spring to find out.
Torchie
I have seen those before but always with what looks like a bellhousing for a manual trans.
I can see that "I need Schooling" when it comes to early hemis.
I know that the 727 and the 904 have the same bolt pattern. As long as they are both SB mopar trans.
I have no idea what will be coming with the engines.
I guess I'll have to stick around till spring to find out.
Torchie
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Old Iron
Well-known member
I'll stick with ya to see these babies.
[P[P[P
[P[P[P
soltz
The Rat Captain
Stick around indeed [ you have a lot of work to get done[cl
you have a lot of work to get done[cl
Torchie
Well-known member
Stick around indeed [
That's the plan, Gang.
Bit of a set back today.
Out of my leg and into my wheel chair.
Since I've lost so much weight(65 lbs since spring?) the leg fitment is getting problematic.
I had to have the stump receiver padded up yesterday so I could even walk. A bit too much padding I'm afraid. Now the stump is angry.
I did manage to roll out to the shop as this came in the mail today.
In dash shifter bezel from a 55 Chrysler.
It's bigger then the Dodge. Narrower too. It also has a longer throw between the shift indents which may give me more wiggle room when I connect it to the trans.
This one is designed to be back lit. I think. The Dodge bezel has the RNDL cast right into it.
I can clean off the letters on the Chrysler one and redo them to suit the 904. PRND.
I also think the Chrysler is a little more elegant looking.
That's it from here. Back to the leg shop tomorrow in hopes of a better result.
Keep on keeping on...
Torchie.
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Torchie
Well-known member
Old Iron
Well-known member
Yes that is it.
When using it, ya cut the starter mounting section off and use the bolt to the 318/360 block style mounted starter.
I also thread the rear crank flange with a 1/2-20 tap then use 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts to make mounting the flex plate/flywheel way easier than Mopar's bolt and nut approach.
When using it, ya cut the starter mounting section off and use the bolt to the 318/360 block style mounted starter.
I also thread the rear crank flange with a 1/2-20 tap then use 1/2-20 grade 8 bolts to make mounting the flex plate/flywheel way easier than Mopar's bolt and nut approach.
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Torchie
Well-known member
Thanks for the info OI.
Found out a bit more on the engines.
One should be a 53 as it came out if a 53 Chrysler.
Not much info on the rebuilt one. I know the person that rebuilt it so I may try to track him down and see if he has a build sheet on it.
Torchie
Found out a bit more on the engines.
One should be a 53 as it came out if a 53 Chrysler.
Not much info on the rebuilt one. I know the person that rebuilt it so I may try to track him down and see if he has a build sheet on it.
Torchie
Skip
Well-known member
Its hard to imagine upping the cool factor on this project, but the Hemi just did it. [cl [cl [cl
Torchie
Well-known member
Well.......
I'm supposed to stay out of my leg for a while but since I have access to a full on machine shop tomorrow I may have work around that.
We are going to see if we can get the pin out of the PS door upper hinge.
I went the big bucks($18 plus shipping) to get a genuine 1949 Dodge Coronet hinge pin.
We shall see.......
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie
I'm supposed to stay out of my leg for a while but since I have access to a full on machine shop tomorrow I may have work around that.
We are going to see if we can get the pin out of the PS door upper hinge.
I went the big bucks($18 plus shipping) to get a genuine 1949 Dodge Coronet hinge pin.
We shall see.......
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie
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bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Well, there goes the Christmas money. One of my buddies just received a removable leg.
Good luck with the hinge.[cl
One of my buddies just received a removable leg.Good luck with the hinge.[cl
Torchie
Well-known member
Well, there goes the Christmas money.
Good luck with the hinge.[cl
I’m sending him good vibes, bob.
I hope he has a good leg tech like I do.
It’s a process and I’m trying to get a timeline on me getting a new leg or at least a recepticle that I fit into again.
I’ll know more on Monday.
I’ll let you know about the pin tomorrow.
Is it a sign of old age that all I seem to do is bitch about the price of parts?
That’s probably a retorical question.
Torchie
Neto
Well-known member
Well.......
I'm supposed to stay out of my leg for a while but since I have access to a full on machine shop tomorrow I may have work around that.
We are going to see if we can get the pin out of the PS door upper hinge.
I went the big bucks($18 plus shipping) to get a genuine 1949 Dodge Coronet hinge pin.
We shall see.......
Keep on keeping on.
Torchie
Of the 6 hinges (not counting the upper two on the rear doors, which are external) on my 46 Plymouth, I was only able to press out 2 of them. The others were all twisted off just below the knurled area, & had to be drilled out.
But I would be interested to know the diameter of your pins.
I have received conflicting info for the Plymouth pins, and some say it was a common practice to ream the hinges for over-sized ones. One person told me that they have a Dodge parts book that says that the pins were originally 5/16" diameter. No one else gave any info like that, and none of the books I have give any dimensional info at all. I asked him to tell me what book it was in, or to send a scan of that page, but he never responded. But because of that one reference, and because the insides of the hinge tongues looked like they had drill bit gouges in the bores, I concluded that mine had probably been reamed out to 11/32" (.34375 in.). Now I'm thinking that the pins were actually 11/32" to start with. I wasn't surprised that mine might have been drilled out, because my car has over 91,000 miles on it, and as you know, there was no bushing of any kind in the original design, so it was steel on steel.
Torchie
Well-known member
Here's what I came up with..... Neto.
Conflicting info is the norm when It comes to these cars.
My pin mic'd out at 3/8 inch.
The pin that was sent to me that was for the "49 Dodge" is way too small.
No matter as we only got the pin pushed out about 3/4 of an inch and it stuck.
No amount of effort would budge it.
So now it's off to the machine shop for real.[P [P [P
Pics tell the story. I even bent a grade 8 bolt trying to push the pin the rest of the way out.
Keep on keeping on...
Torchie
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bob w
Still crazy after all these years!
Chinese Grade 8 is around 3. Must be a worn in step in the pin that is hanging up on the housing. Did you soak in vinegar over night to free up the rust?
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I would torchie it
Torchie
Well-known member
I believe you are right ,bob.
I didn't even think to soak it. Seems like I have been running on half a brain here lately.
That was our next step dutch. If we had a torch handy.
That's one of the reasons it's headed over to another machine shop.
They will get it out and fit a new pin.
Torchie
Neto
Well-known member
Here's what I came up with..... Neto.
Conflicting info is the norm when It comes to these cars.
My pin mic'd out at 3/8 inch.
The pin that was sent to me that was for the "49 Dodge" is way too small.
No matter as we only got the pin pushed out about 3/4 of an inch and it stuck.
No amount of effort would budge it.
So now it's off to the machine shop for real.[P [P [P
Pics tell the story. I even bent a grade 8 bolt trying to push the pin the rest of the way out.
Keep on keeping on...
Torchie
Thanks much for the info. Could be the Dodge pins were larger than the Plymouth pins, or maybe the 49s were larger than the previous model run. Or maybe they were originally 5/16 or 11/32, and yours were drilled out when they got sloppy during the car's previous lifetime. It is something that surprises me about the original service manuals, that while they give part numbers for stuff, there is generally no actual description.
Since I was thinking that the correct pin diameter was 5/16", I bought 1 3/8" long oilite (bronze) bushings with that ID, and 7/16" OD, drilled the hinge tongue out within 1/64", then used a hand reamer to bring it up to the correct ID to press in the bushing. That worked great on the one I did, but then came the problem of how to "smallify" the top & bottom holes in the hinge frame, so that the pins would be snug there, and not turn at that spot. (I did get some suggestions on a post here on RRR about how to deal with that, but my work has gotten in the way of my hobby, and then there is this confusion as to what size the pins are really "supposed" to be. I could ream the ID of the bushing, but I'm not sure the remaining wall would be thick enough.)
