No other like it.

I did a lot of sitting in it, and measuring, and pedaling. I wear size 13 shoes, so it definitely required close attention. If it doesn't work out, I'll just have to fix it until it does.
The thing is, I think the pedals look smaller in the pictures than they actually are.

Endicott, I have just a little less space than on my Beetle. So, you know what that's like.

What in the heck are these things? Stay tuned to find out.

There's an old oil filter on the firewall. I've always liked the look of those canister oil filters, but I like the shape of this one more than the big ones.
Anyway, even though it's not being used for anything just yet, I know it's going to stay. I wanted something on the passenger side to fill in all the empty space.

So I wanted to make my coolant tank to match the oil filter. That meant that I needed to make some brackets just like these...


So, I took some measurements of my fancy shmancy coolant tank, and made some brackets.


I can hardly believe that I got it right on the first try, and the second one even matches the first.

Hey, that rat rod that drives by my office every day, just went by as I type this. I'm outta here. There's work to do!

Those came out really nice, what did you use to bend them?
They look like the OHM symbol to me.

Yep, I thought that too. The Greek omega.

I used a vice and a small sledge. In the end, once it was close, I held them on the tank and hammered down the high spots.

Those brackets look like Dan made them

earthman said:

Those brackets look like Dan made them

Click to expand...

There were a few times when I stopped to think "How would Dan do this?" (That's DJ3100 to everyone else here.) The problem is, I have no idea how he would do it. So I just banged on it with a hammer until it bent itself into place.

So, I was going to hook up the clutch linkage this afternoon, and I ran into a setback. I was trying to measure the travel at the release fork, and really came up with nothing good. It only took a little to release the clutch, then the darn thing would actually travel about 2 inches. So I did what the old timers used to do, and googled it.

I found some very useful information on this page http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

It turns out that I need only about 1 and 3/8 inch of travel, but I had the wrongest throwout bearing that I could get. I just figured that the old Chevy TO bearings were all the same. Wrong.
So, after some measuring of this and that, I got to pull the transmission back out, and start my search for a new bearing. For some reason, the one I need was only used in GMCs from the late 50s to late 60s, and it's the most expensive one there is. The O'Reilly website shows it to be $99, and not in stock near me. RockAuto is $58 shipped.

Anyway, the thing I'm trying to say is, the bearings aren't the same. O'Reilly has this backward search thing where you find whatever part you want, then click on "applications", and it will show you every vehicle that part was ever on. This is awesome for junkyard hunting. So I put in the part number, and it shows what vehicles it fits. Then, searching by application for the truck that the bearing is for, gives the wrong part numbers. Autozone gives a number for a bearing that's almost a half inch too short. RockAuto gives options of a whole bunch of different bearings, and all different sizes. The correct one is the most expensive. So, maybe the info at Novak can help someone out when they're having clutch issues.
Diaphragm clutches and finger clutches use different bearings too.

In case anyone wants to know, it's National G1625C.

Let's see, you thought of me and immediately got a hammer? Not sure if I should be flattered or insulted. Actually, I would have approached those the same way - hammer and vise and maybe added a little heat.

The throwout bearing seems typical of GM stuff - lots of choices. They probably had an engineering staff whose only job was to design throwout bearings and they did a new one every 6 weeks.

Okay, so for the stinking throwout bearing. The local place had this one in stock for $60. It wasn't the right number, but it was close in size, so I decided to try it.


It was a little too long, so I got to pull that 175 lb. transmission back out for a... let's see, 3rd time, and returned the bearing. I ordered the correct one from RockAuto for $60, and waited for the mail.


So, while messing with all this stuff, I realized that the little clip that holds the clutch fork onto the pivot stud, was broken. I looked all over for one locally, but no luck. So I looked all over online, and the cheapest one I could find was $8, and of course I had to wait for it. I've got work to do, and clutch linkage to build, so back in with the transmission. I got the clutch linkage mostly built, and the clip came in the mail.

So, I got to pull the transmission for the 4th time, and put the little clip thing on the clutch fork. [S Only 4 times? It sure feels like 5 or 6.

Anyway, one of those days while I was waiting for the mail, I put in my new U-joints, stuck the driveshaft in, and set up my dial indicator. I had tacked the ends on, but only eyeballed it for straightness. So, I turned and tapped with a hammer, and turned, and welded, and turned, until I got the driveshaft pretty darned straight. The front end with the slip yoke is about 5 thousandths out, and the back end is about 14 out. I have no idea what the professionally built shafts run, but I think it's balanceable now.

I'll be revealing something else soon, (if it works). In the meantime, I wanted to mention that I got some things from www.acestainless.com, and they had way better prices than anyone else on feebay or anywhere. They have those nice stainless hose clamps for only $3.

Another long-winded post, over.

I went on Photobucket and made both pictures the same size, smaller. Why are they all wacky?

More boring pictures, coming soon...

So, you got a throw out bearing that works, right? Looks like neither of the are the same as the original.

8literbeater said:

More boring pictures, coming soon...

Click to expand...

...[P

DJ3100 said:

So, you got a throw out bearing that works, right? Looks like neither of the are the same as the original.

Click to expand...

Yup, the old one was actually brand new and never used, but had gotten rained on sometime in the years that I've been saving it. It's a really good quality self-centering bearing, but as it turns out, it's compatible with various Chevys from the mid 80s to the mid 90s. It's an extra I've had since I put the 5 speed in my 59, which was out of a 94 Chevy bread truck. Go figure.

I guess what they did was changed the shape of the clutch diaphragm to allow use of a shorter bearing. So, the new one is the right one by measurement.

The old style:


The newer style:

I basically finished the clutch linkage a couple days ago. I couldn't decide how I wanted to do it. I salvaged a hydraulic clutch setup off of my dad's 88? 3/4 ton Ford before he scrapped it. That would require making two brackets, two adjustable links, new hydraulic hose and fittings, access to the master cylinder to check/fill it, and presumed maintenance issues with leaks, etc.
I used a hydraulic clutch on my 59, but that bellhousing requires it from the factory, and I used the slave cylinder and mount, and only had to mount a Wilwood master cylinder. I'm still not very happy with it.

So I did some calculating, and measuring, and drew a little thing in Autocad, and decided to just use a straight rod. It doesn't line up perfectly, but hey, it's not a production vehicle that's going to be driven 150,000 miles by a soccer mom. It's mine, and It'll probably only get a few 10s of thousands of miles, and I can make adjustments along the way.
I pulled a rocker arm pivot ball off of a 283 that I've got laying nearby, stuck a grade 8 3/8" bolt through it, and used that for the contact on the fork. The threads on both ends of the rod are right-handed, but hey, it'll work anyway. Those stinking clevises are $10 at the hardware store.
Anyway, I finally got to push the clutch, and it feels just right.



Jeez look at all that stuff piled in the corner of the cab. That's embarrassing.
Here, look at something else.

Here's the driveshaft, installed. It's a chilly ~43 degrees out here at night (when I do all my work). If I stay moving, I get by with just wearing an extra shirt. My dog likes to sit in front of the flood light to stay warm. Good for him, bad for me. I built my dogs a fully insulated doghouse, but they'd rather watch me work. Actually, the three males sit and watch me, the two females sit in the doghouse on their fluffy bed. I guess some things are universal.

And, the award goes to 8literbeater, for Most Artistic Photograph of a Driveshaft Tunnel.

I like the build. Too bad those dogs don't have thumbs. They could help.

Hi liter, You will be glad you went with the iron clutch linkage as opposed to a hydraulic set-up. You may have to readjust your rod after you've test driven it, but then you will be trouble free for life. If you had gone with Hydraulic, you would be an old man a way sooner because of the grief you would have had with leaking, bleeding and adjusting.
I've had quite a few hydraulic clutches in my life, and they have all taught me, to carry a bottle of brake fluid with me at all times; and how to swear like a drunken sailor.
Keep on tinkering.

Thanks guys. Yeah Mac, I'm trying to make this entire thing pretty foolproof. No power steering, brakes, mechanical linkage whenever possible, and no fuel pump. Things like that.

The parking brake cables are visible there on the right, and I think I'll mount them just about where they are. Then the cable will run under the battery box to the right side of the transmission, where there will hopefully be an old brake handle. I have yet to find one that I can afford.
I'm looking for the old Chevy pickup type like this...



I've been working on the coolant lines. Hopefully there will be some pictures of that stuff by tomorrow. Meanwhile, the thermostat housing hose fitting comes out facing the driver's side, and I need it to be either to the passenger side, or directly forward. For some reason these have offset bolt holes unlike the V8 thermostat housings, so I can't just turn it around. So I had to make a new housing. It's going to stick straight forward from the head.

The junk on the right will be replaced with the junk on the left.

I have a couple or three E brake handles that look like the one in the pic. You can check them out. I keep buying them, but they never work where I want them. They are really long.

Apparently the dog doesn't want to see the light at the end of the tunnel!

nice dog shot. what was he thinking?

I-R-POPS said:

nice dog shot. what was he thinking?

Click to expand...

I wonder sometimes too. Maybe something like "Thank you, bright light, you're so warm."
They each have their way of staying warm while watching me. One wears a heavy fur coat, and another one gets help from a friend.



Because sitting on cold concrete sucks when you're just a little guy!

Okay, on to the work.
The thermostat housing is mostly done. I still need to tap into it for a hose that will run to the propane vaporizer.
I started off with an oversized hole saw to cut the groove for the thermostat, then went down to the hole size. Then I used one of my worn down cutoff wheels on the die grinder to true it up.





Grade 8 hardware for a thermostat? Of course!
I went ahead and put it on, so that I could measure for the radiator hoses and the previously mentioned hose.
This part gets really tedious. I'm using clear tubing for the radiator hoses. I'm not sure how it will pan out, and if it doesn't, it will be way easier to change than it was to build in the first place.





oh this thing is going to look ridiculous