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Its the eighth letter in the Vin and should be a W, which would indicate a Romeo block.

Yes they all 4.6 and 5.4s bolt to the same transmissions. Honestly you'd be better off finding a set of lower mileage heads and just switch them out. Heck if you wanna pay the shipping I'll send ya a set of good heads with about 135,000 miles on em.

The cars are rear sump pans as well, they just hold 2 quarts less oil then the trucks.

I would look for a car engine if you still have the 4.6 out of the truck, then just switch stuff over. You could probably pick up a whole crown Vic or Lincoln town car for around $500 that has a bad transmission. Call around to some salvage yards, any 4.6 from a rear wheel drive from '93-2004...

The 97 F150 4x4 I had with a 4.6 had 283,000 miles on the engine and 270,000 on everything else and still got around 23mpg. The 5.4 is junk in my opinion, the 4.6 is a much better engine. The 4.6 transmission will bolt to the 5.0/302 but, you won't be able to bolt a starter on.

I would sell or trade the 5.0 to get a 4.6. There are some things to know about the 4.6 though, there are two different engines, Romeo and Windsor. Your truck will be a Romeo block. The trucks have different intakes and oil pans then the car engines, the truck holds 7 quarts instead of the 5...

Here's a link to the thread OI spoke of... http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30932&highlight=narrowing+control+arms I would try camaro spindles first, as I'm sure there's a wrecked one to get parts from pretty cheap lol.

Bunch of neat goodies in there! My dad has one of those Buick tissue dispensers, that he kept from his '51 Buick that went to the salvage yard 20 some years ago.

I agree with Old Iron, could also be air bleed screws need adjusted but I'd start with the float and needle valve.

And here.... http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?p=398840#post398840

That is pretty dang close there Dr! What throws me is the bead work on the fender. Everything I've seen has smooth fenders.

I picked this up at a thing called a "Vintage Fair" lol. Does anyone know what year, make/model its from? IMG_20140908_173057 by ratrodfanbobcat, on Flickr IMG_20140908_173000_340 by ratrodfanbobcat, on Flickr IMG_20140908_173018_001 by ratrodfanbobcat, on Flickr I assume its a late '20's...

Read this, should have all the info you need... http://www.droppedaxles.com/TECH_ARTICLES.html

Cool video and a super fast build! I call engines that look like that Pennzoil motors lol. Keep it comin!

The F-1 panels were shorter than the F-2's and the F-3's were the biggest. Same with the pickups, the 3/4 ton and one ton trucks came with an 8 1/2 ft bed and were wider and the half tons came with a 6 ft bed.

Looking at this pic, I'd say they reshaped the rear wheel opening to match the front. 10 by ratrodfanbobcat, on Flickr

Thanks fellas! I'm extremely slow lol. Its been four months since I last posted and all I've done is take one cross member off the frame. The old rivets and I don't get along very well it seems. I did manage to pick up a sweet intake on trade for the old Y block though. IMG_20140827_201125 by...

Yes the smaller will push more pressure but, the calipers require more fluid. I'm confused now lol, what they told you is backwards from everything I've read and seen.

I can't answer all your questions, but I can answer some. It will work with gm metric calipers just fine and I would guess 1 inch bore for the disk and 7/8 for the drums with a residual valve. The balance bar should work the same as an add on proportioning valve. The pedal ratio should be about...

The thing you have to keep in mind with leaf springs is, the hotter you get them the harder the steel will become!