1936 Chev 4 door rust bucket

[Artboy]

Hi all. This will be a slow build by a noob but I will value all advice. Inspired by zz's Packard, I have started the long road to doing something with this pile of rust. The laws in Western Australia are tough and I am still learning but they don't seem keen on rat rods. I figured I would start by firming up some of the rustier bits of tin after I remove fenders etc. I figured it would be good to firm it up while it is still on the chassis. Following zz's advice I have been recording what I consider to be important measurements. I have also started removing rotten wood which isn't fun - it is early autumn here and temperatures are high 30 degrees c - over 100 in Fahrenheit. Hotter in the shed! Anyway, here are some shots of the starting point.
Someone had ripped the radiator out and wrecked the grille so I need to fix that up. As you can see , the timber connected to the frame on which the body sits is rotted. Seeking advice on how to deal with that. Obviously needs to be replaced with metal but not sure how?

 

[Artboy]

Thought I would post my photochop. I originally did this as a panel van about three years ago but after seeing zz's caddy and packard i was very keen on a 2 door instead. I am not very good at photoshop sorry but it gives an idea.

 

[05snopro440]

That's very ambitious as a first project! The Chevies of that age are tough to do because of all the wood, no doubt. Keep at it, and don't get discouraged!

 

[Artboy]

I know! But I figured it's just bits of metal formed in different shapes and sizes and then welded together in a certain arrangement! Seems straight forward?? Lot of good info and inspiration on this forum!

 

[smallfoot]

Piece of cake right?[P

 

[Torchie]

Nice project. I didn't remember 36's as having that much wood in the floor.
Here a few pick of the truck floor that I did. I replaced the floor because I channeled it but it should help to give you some Ideas.
1x1 steel tubing covered in 16 gauge steel. The 16 gauge may have been a bit of over kill but it is what I had on hand.

Make sure that your body is squared up and braced because once you get the floor back in. That's the way it will be.
Have fun. [P [P [P
Torchie

 

[Skip]

This is going to be an awesome looking car when you are done. Heck it already is! Just go slow, and you will figure it out. Others of your countrymen have succeeded with projects like this, I am sure you can work it out.

 

[Artboy]

Thanks Gents. Will see how we go.

 

[Mr.Gussett]

Im in !

[cl[P[P[P

 

[Tripper]

Thought I would post my photochop. I originally did this as a panel van about three years ago but after seeing zz's caddy and packard i was very keen on a 2 door instead. I am not very good at photoshop sorry but it gives an idea.

I like it... keep us posted!

BoB

 

[Artboy]

I read on one of these builds something derogatory about slotted head screws. Whoever it was, I agree! Have been pulling the old rotted wood and rusty wire etc out and it is going to take a while. Will remove all the fenders - that alone doesn't seem to be easy with all the rusty bolts located in difficult access areas - are there any shortcuts to this other than being careful with the angle grinder when contorted? The plan is to then brace it so it stays square while I try and lift the cab off. I want to then start replacing the rusty sheet metal in the wheel arches and other areas before deciding where/ how to chop.
As I am completely new to this I am still studying how it was constructed- and the rotted, curved piece of wood pictured below seems crucial. It runs from in front of the cowl to the rear wheel arch and looks like it is bolted to the frame in four points. It is 40mm deep so I figured that when the cab is off I could replace this wood with 40mm rhs- I am thinking 3mm wall thickness? I then figure I can construct the sub floor from 25mm (inch) square tube (wall thickness?) and overlay that with 18gauge sheet. Am I on the right track?

 

[Artboy]

Made progress removing most of the old wood and the remaining rusted out floor as well as the windscreen - a bit of rust repair on the dash to do. The whole body seems pretty solid apart from around the rear wheel arches so tomorrow I think I will brace the cab up a bit and get the sawzall on to the rusty bolts holding the fenders on. Stood back a few times and tried to imagine where to chop it up. I may even tape it tomorrow if I get the other stuff done. Not the most fun bit but it feels good to edge closer.

 

[Artboy]

1936 Chev rust bucket

Got the old girl under cover for the first time in 4 years. It's good to start working on her without having to lay in the dirt! All the wood is now removed and I have spent a bit of time researching sectioning and chopping and reckon I am close to deciding where to cut. Also spent a bit of time ( with a beer in hand) admiring her lines and thinking how she could look a bit better. Will continue to keep slicing and dicing to get the fenders off and then start a bit of metal shaping to replace some jagged rusty bits. This will firm her up a bit.

 

[zzrodder]

I like it!! Another 4dr that wants to be a 2dr.... Lots of fun getting rid of the firewood, much like what I went through with my 34 Caddy project. Like the 36 Packard, my wife thought I was scrapping the body when she saw it all cut into bits, but with some vision, a plan, hard work and probably some brewskis, it can be done. Carry on !! [P[P

 

[Artboy]

Thanks zz. I may be hitting you up for advice - lots of it!

 

[Artboy]

Got the left side fenders and running board off. Very tattered rusty edges so I plan on welding new metal in to make it a lot more solid again before chopping. I was planning on using the original frame as I figured that would be easier. Apart from surface rust how do I tell how solid it is? It seems ok but guess I won't know until it is stripped bare.

 

[Dr Crankenstein]

Your frame is a good, strong design but relatively thin... beware of corrosion or deep pits.

What kind of power do you have in mind?

.

 

[bkvail]

I will be following this build! [P

Hubby and I have been building a 36 Diamond T for about 4 years now. We both said that our next project will NOT be wood framed. The framing has been really challenging for newbies to this type work. We had to build BOTH A and B pillars from steel (original doors were hung from wood and striker was screwed to wood! But, we have plugged away and are coming close to the end of the re-building and soon will be on the home stretch. I hope.

 

[Artboy]

Your frame is a good, strong design but relatively thin... beware of corrosion or deep pits.

What kind of power do you have in mind?

.

I am a cruiser rather than a rev head so I was thinking something simple - like a Holden in line 6 or small v8 a 253 ci. ( Holden is the GM brand down here). Thanks for your comment on the frame. I will have a good look when stripped.

 

[Artboy]

I will be following this build! [P

Hubby and I have been building a 36 Diamond T for about 4 years now. We both said that our next project will NOT be wood framed. The framing has been really challenging for newbies to this type work. We had to build BOTH A and B pillars from steel (original doors were hung from wood and striker was screwed to wood! But, we have plugged away and are coming close to the end of the re-building and soon will be on the home stretch. I hope.

I will have a good look through your build - glad to hear you're almost done. All the wood is out of my cab now apart from the two main rails. Still have to remove the wood from the doors which I will start this weekend. Because it is so rotten it splits and comes out easy.

I fabbed a die for my tube bender on the weekend so I can bend one inch square tube with it. Tested it and it works well - will be time consuming though.