4 link help

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rokhound

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 11, 2012
Messages
72
hey guys i am getting back to work on the 47 willys cj2a i want to link the rear but here is the thing i am very limited on space. So what to do you think will work here my lower arms can be 24" long or so. But my uppers can only be 12 to 14 inches long is this ok??

I will try to post some pics here in a bit. To show how cramped it is back because of my seats or my be i am over thing this. this is my first build so any help would be great.

Is there a kit out there that you guys would recommend?? Or maybe a kit is not the way to go??

i was thinking about a 4 bar system with a pan hard bar i think this a set up like this would be the best set up. if i run a four bar welded to the out side of the frame they can only be 15" long just so i have room for my seats.
Parallel4.jpg
 
Several universal kits, try looking for 4x4 link kits from places like Balistic Fab or Rusty's offroad. Short links are ok but but the uppers should be 2/3rds the length of the lowers. More important is the distance of the upper and lower mounting points on the links. At the axles you should have 8" or more and 1/3 less than that measure ment at the frame.

Also I would try using a triangulated 4 link or a wishbone stile upper link instead of a panard bar. Less moving parts. It's not perfection but follow a few standard theories and it will work nice.

Kurt
 
funny you should mention 4x4 parts as i have a clayton long arm cross member i think i am going to build something like that flib it back words and run a 2 link type set up. longer arms mean nicer ride i hope
 
Longer arms mean less torque applied be it from axle wrap or hard braking. Spring rate is the best way to a smooth ride. Airbags at 30 lbs ride way better than at 90lbs.

But longer arms sure look cooler!

Kurt
 
yeah i agree about the less torque thing for sure and it looks like it can be done cheap (and done right) this is what i am thinking about:

2link.jpg


i am going to run an air bags on the back i am not going to mod the frame to make it lay out right now maybe later on. I just want this thing to be a roller by Christmas I have about a week of shut down so i hope to be out in the shop alot during that time but we will see.
 
I'm no expert, by any means but that 'DIAGONAL BAR" that you're showing isn't going to serve as a PANARD BAR though.

You need to hook it from one side on the axle assembly up to the opposite side ON THE FRAME, so it can hold BOTH of the assemblys in the same plane as they move up and down.

I think that's right anyway....
Anyone else comment on it ??
 
This looks like a pretty basic truck arm setup and should work good. The air bag mounts seem a little close to the frame though. Will take more air pressure to support it

After the arms are bolted to the axle and the bushings bolted in there pockets I think it's strength will show itself.

Kurt
 
this is not my set up found it on the web the mini trucks guys run this set up i think with this short wheel base this is going to be the best bang for the buck
 
I'm no expert, by any means but that 'DIAGONAL BAR" that you're showing isn't going to serve as a PANARD BAR though.

You need to hook it from one side on the axle assembly up to the opposite side ON THE FRAME, so it can hold BOTH of the assemblys in the same plane as they move up and down.

I think that's right anyway....
Anyone else comment on it ??

That set up, by itself, holds the one side very well, but does nothing for the other.

Actually because the two bars are hooked to the axle, by holding one you are holding both.The only real draw back on this design is the cross bar can be in the way of the driveshaft and limited articulation. I built a similar design but not finished still have to put on bag perch and pan hard bar.
 

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I used the same design on my '46 with great results.I used a 69 chevy truck rear so I kept the panhard bar.
 

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this is what i am coming up with i found these ranger spring hanger for the front and the rear well i am still working on it.
photobucket-23611-1354990855002.jpg
 
Hi Rok....

I used the triangulated 4 link kit from welderseries. I don't have the dimensions handy, but I'm sure if you look at their website, you'll see that it probably fits your need. I thought it was reasonably priced, and the workmanship is fantastic. Being triangulated, it removes the need for a panhard bar.

Good luck.
 
Old dirt track race cars use to use chain for there panard bar!

You can get the spring eye bushings with 1 1/2" tubing cut to width for those old mounts and I have bolted a single u bolt straight through the spring pirch on the axle side before.

Kurt
 
thanks for the heads up on the welderseries i think i have looked at those before. chain for a pan hard bar now that would be scary.
 
Here's what I made up for my Hennway. Frame is a modified 78 F150, I used the original front leaf mounts for the front of the lower 4 link bars, bags mounted on the bars which are about 22" long. Triangulated upper bars keep the rearend centered and even though I didn't have a really big angle on them, it tracks perfectly, on the road since 2006. I used shocks for a lifted Chevy pickup so they have plenty of travel, total lift is almost 10" at 100 psi, normal driving pressure is 60 psi. I used Universal Air bags which aren't that big, if you use larger bags like Dominator 2600's, 45 psi would be plenty.
 

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